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Old 02-11-2018, 11:13 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by bet on black View Post
Why would you even say such a thing? Lol
Some folks seem to enjoy working on their diesels. I prefer the minimal amount of maintenance my gas motor requires.

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Old 02-11-2018, 11:32 AM   #32
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Some folks seem to enjoy working on their diesels. I prefer the minimal amount of maintenance my gas motor requires.
Working on a diesel? Why? I've got a few hundred thousand miles on 7.3s in trucks and vans (with 70k-200k on the clocks). I've replaced a couple cam sensors and an IPR sensor. Seems easier than fuel pumps every year or two Jeff!
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Old 02-11-2018, 11:34 AM   #33
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Working on a diesel? Why? I've got a few hundred thousand miles on 7.3s in trucks and vans (with 70k-200k on the clocks). I've replaced a couple cam sensors and an IPR sensor. Seems easier than fuel pumps every year or two Jeff!
But I'd be plenty happy with a V10, don't take me for a diesel fanatic.. but the extra maintenance/repair oft mentioned about diesels is really not extra.
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Old 02-12-2018, 01:15 PM   #34
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{QUOTE]But I'd be plenty happy with a V10, don't take me for a diesel fanatic.. but the extra maintenance/repair oft mentioned about diesels is really not extra [QUOTE]

Not extra for a diesel.


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I've replaced a couple cam sensors and an IPR sensor. Seems easier than fuel pumps every year or two Jeff!
Sensors VS fuel pumps is a no brainer , but I base a lot of my opinion on reading about so many folks having to replace stuff deep into and on the motor that leak, quit or other wise need attention / repair like injectors, HPOP's, fuel bowls, turbos, Orings, etc. On the other hand, the diesels in my boat are as reliable as a rock and have never required more than baisc maintenance, and I atribute that to good maintenance and good old diesel reliability. I still believe though that maintenance costs are much higher on a diesel but offset by better mileage and far superior pulling power. It's a bit like discussing anchors though, everyone thinks the one they have is the best one for everybody, myself included. YMMV...
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Old 02-12-2018, 06:42 PM   #35
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I just did the coils and plugs on my '99 v10 and used Motorcraft SP-479, which matched what was in there. In my case I could have probably skipped the plugs, but didn't know that for sure until I pulled them.

After much research I decided to use no anti seize and torqued the plugs to a bit more than the original factory spec, but not quite as much as some folks suggested (~20 ft lbs). I got close enough to using anti seize that got the stuff ford tells folks to put on the 3 valve plugs. I did soak the plugs with carb cleaner overnight and then again after just cracking them loose.

All the threads on my plugs came out clean.

Compared to a modern performance car, there's really plenty of room to do the job, the time just adds up a bit since there are 10 plugs. The only thing that was a real pain was a piece of debris that got wedged between the wall and a plug. I had to fashion a picking tool to get that out. In fact, if I did it again, I'd pick up or borrow a borescope.

FWIW, my plugs were in good shape, as were my coil boots. Some of my coils however had seen better days. One was cracked where it bolts down, and a couple of others had badly corroded contacts. I suspect the plugs and boots were done more recently, perhaps whenever the remanufactured engine went in. While all but one of the coils were likely original and had lived through something less than ideal.

Finally, a number of the plastic clips on the coil and injector harness were broken, and I broke a couple more. I've ordered replacement plugs, but they have not shown up yet.

I know folks here seem to like the time sert kit, but calvan appears to be another good option as well.
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Old 02-12-2018, 09:13 PM   #36
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I went the time sert route today. Got 10 new plugs in. The other 9 came out and went back in with no issues. Installed the time sert in the #3 cylinder. I'm an experienced wrench but never done one of these before nor had I even heard of it before last week. It went really smoothly. I didn't really research any other kits because I heard good things about the time sert. I ordered it on Amazon Thursday and installed it today. I replaced 3 coils, the three I considered the hardest to get to. Also replaced all the boots, they were aged looking. Van starts and idles well now. I'm not really going to drive it until the salt is off the road in spring. IT's going to be a long wait! If the engine seems decent once I get some miles on it then I'll likely do a compression test and oil sample and make my final decision as to whether the engine will remain in there or get swapped out. In the meantime I think I am going to pull the 7.3 and wiring, fuel tank, etc out of the donor van.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:01 AM   #37
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Glad it went fine Twilkins. I'll be curious to see how you like it and whether you decide to go with the swap.

You mentioned something I wish I would've recommended to Madscience before he replaced every coil. Just do the boots! Our fleet mechanic at work recommended this to me when I tuned up my V10 (motorhome). It had a miss and I tracked it down to a coil or two but the coils were fine. New plugs, boots, lots of dielectric grease on the boots and she has purred like a kitten since. MUCH cheaper than new coils as well.
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:12 AM   #38
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I was told Denso makes the coils for motorcraft so just use those. Napa wanted $55 for denso's. Advance auto wants $70 for Denso's. Autozone's website showed $55 for Denso's. Napa had 2 and Autozone had 1. I went to Napa first and bought two, then when I went to Autozone they were only $27. So I bought the one they had in stock. Then I went back to Napa and showed them my receipt and they took their 2 back and then price matched them to match autozone and resold them to me. The napa clerk looked up their cost and it was $26.xx. I wonder how Autozone is selling them so cheap, or is it maybe a mistake? When I got home I looked at Autozone's website again and it still said $55. I just looked again and it shows $27. Very strange..........all the same Denso coils with the same part number and the autozone and napa ones came in the exact same box. I wonder if its a mistake in Autozone's system
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Old 02-13-2018, 10:12 AM   #39
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Glad it went fine Twilkins. I'll be curious to see how you like it and whether you decide to go with the swap.
Yeah, congratulations on getting that done. It seems straight forward enough, but I'm sure getting the last bit of shavings out of the cylinder is exciting.

Quote:
You mentioned something I wish I would've recommended to Madscience before he replaced every coil. Just do the boots! Our fleet mechanic at work recommended this to me when I tuned up my V10 (motorhome). It had a miss and I tracked it down to a coil or two but the coils were fine. New plugs, boots, lots of dielectric grease on the boots and she has purred like a kitten since. MUCH cheaper than new coils as well.
I was aware of that, but in my case it looked like the boots and springs were in good shape, but I had corrosion on the contact on the bottom of the coil packs themselves. If I had to guess, the boots had been done at some point. In fact I tried swapping the boot on the really bad coil first, and that was not a solution.

I did use plenty of dielectric grease on all the sealing surfaces of the boots and am convinced that that was a good idea.
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Old 02-13-2018, 03:36 PM   #40
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I went with Denso too. Shouldn't have anything to worry about with those.
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