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Old 07-13-2020, 02:28 PM   #1
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2005 6.0L Diesel Options

Hello.

I've got a 2005 SMB 4x4 with the Ford 6.0L diesel in it. It has just under 40K miles on it. A year or so ago I had to replace the turbo and at that time upgraded the firmware to the latest rev. It has a coolant filter in the system and a Scan Gage II so I can keep an eye on water and oil temps. Typically on a flat road the oil/water temps only differ by 3-4 degrees so the heat exchanger seems to be working fine, i.e. it's not clogged up and cooling the oil pretty effectively. The van is driven pretty easily. I don't race up hills or push the engine very hard. Other than the coolant filter and new turbo (stock replacement) the engine is stock. Also, I have the coolant changed every couple of years at the dealer.

I've read quite a bit about the 6.0L being a problem child and failure prone. Obviously, bullet proofing at 10-15K would fix everything but I'm wondering if there's a less costly alternative (or subset of mods) that significantly increases reliability at a lower cost outlay. We're looking at doing a west coast/ Alaska trip next year and I'd like to feel confident in the SMB to get us there and back w/out issues.

Also, are there any stats on what percentage of 6.0L engines have issues and possibly the typical mileage that issues occur at?

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 07-13-2020, 03:02 PM   #2
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ADVENTURE isn't defined or categorized as a specific experience...could view it as "part of the fun" of owning a 6.0. How you approach the situation when it presents itself defines the level of frustration you endure.
Its a loaded question,..bullet proofing is an address of know "most common" issues associated with the 6.0. Completing "some of it" will reduce the chances of "issue", but only proportionate to the amount of "items" you decided to addressed.
Comes down to peace of mind...but still no guarantee.
Believe you'll find regular and/or frequent Fluid Changes, Fuel additive, and Oil additives (stiction) to be the most proactive.
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Old 07-13-2020, 03:26 PM   #3
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X2

One of the best things you can do, and doesn't cost anything other than a little more fuel, is DON'T BABY IT. Driving it too gently will cause it to get choked up with carbon, especially the moving parts of the variable turbo vanes.

Do stick with OEM filters. Some aftermarket filters don't fit quite right, and allow oil to bypass.

I've rarely had rigs come in with low miles like yours for major repairs. But by 120,000 they seem to all need access to engine valley for some reason or another.

Do make sure you replace batteries before they go bad. Old batteries with marginal charging (or corroded terminals) can burn up your alternator, which often wipes out the FICM.

Best defense is not pushing things when it's not running 100% perfect. Many minor issues can quickly cascade into serious issues when you keep driving. I've twice now watched a 6.0 self-destruct in front of my eyes, over a course of about 10 miles. It started with a little smoke, and ended with parts scattered on the ground....
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:11 PM   #4
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Thanks guys. I do add the Motorcraft cetane additive to fuel but haven't used a an oil additive yet. Is there a recommended one?

I've heard the don't baby it recommendation as well. I'll push it a little harder to keep things blown out.

Good advice on if there is a problem stop driving. No reason to push it into self destruction.

I may be wrong but it seems like many of the 6.0L problems are significant/catastrophic and it's serious mechanic time when they occur. Are there more things one can monitor to detect the potential failure before it occurs?

Thanks again.
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:11 PM   #5
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Yep, what they said^^^. Your EOT-ECT spread is well within spec so no need to worry about the oil and EGR coolers. That said, if the turbo for some reason has to come off again consider swapping the stock cooler EGR cooler for a bulletproof version. The 2005 does have the weaker cooler.


This is a good list of mods that is worth reading. https://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm...=cat/cat13.htmI wouldn't do all of them but the 6.0 does eat batteries for lunch. For sure make sure you have a fresh set before a long trip, especially off the grid. Always replace as a set. Watch the FICM voltage and personally I'd consider upgrading the alternator. I'd also do the blue spring mod to ensure adequate fuel pressure to the injectors. As for mileage injectors may go 200k but it seems like we all end up replacing one or more by 90k. Otherwise, from all appearances the 6.0 is a ticking time bomb but you only hear the bad on the internet.


Another show stopper not related to the 6.0 is the power brake vacuum pump. Not sure if it's mileage or age but seems like most of us have had one go bad at or near 100k so on a 15 yr old rig I'd bring one as a backup. https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...les-14609.html


Check the plastic degas bottle for cracks. They get brittle with age and/or underhood heat. Worth keeping an eye on as the coolant system is under a lot of pressure. Keep a spare radiator cap as well. Those are my thoughts of the top of my head.
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:22 PM   #6
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Two options:
1. Keep on going as-is and expect to fix things as they break...and they will.
2. Proactively maintain or repair the list of issues with a 6.0. https://www.littlepowershop.com/comm...ues-and-fixes/

Here's a map to reference on your travels.
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...09.9342105&z=4
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Old 07-13-2020, 05:37 PM   #7
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And make sure your roadside assistance is up to snuff, so you aren't pressure to continue driving if things start going bad.

- Will tow your van (basic AAA technically doesn't cover camper vans, most operators just do it anyways. but you should RV plus at least. Good Sam has also stopped covering motorhomes on the basic plan, and a camper van fits the definition).

-Will tow you far enough. All of the basic plans include "unlimited towing to the service provider" and sometimes "closest authorized repair facility. These places might not actually get you where you can get good PSD service. For most areas, I receommend a 100 mile plan. But I have 200 miles of coverage, because most of the places I go area long ways from anywhere.

As a benefit, most of the premium plans include some sort of trip interruption service, including rental and hotel reimbursements, and sometimes even a plane ticket home.
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Old 07-13-2020, 07:13 PM   #8
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Bullet Proofing......

I believe it is not worth it unless your oil cooler is choking, if your deltas are are within spec don't throw money at it. As for studding the engine, if your temps are within spec and you don't run a after market hot tune. You don't really need it.

Also looks like you still use the Ford golden coolant, which is what Ford service center would use. Drain and flush it immediately and put in ELC. You may want to read up about break down of ford coolant and forming suspended gel like stuff which clogs oil cooler.

On the vans i think the Engine Harness takes a lot of beating from the heat is prone to failure.

However if you have your Cab off to get some work done, then may be go with bullet proofing to save on labor.

I have owned a 6.0 van and right now have a 6.0 Excursion.
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Old 07-13-2020, 07:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dpekin View Post
...I do add the Motorcraft cetane additive to fuel but haven't used a an oil additive yet. Is there a recommended one?
Jury is out on that recommendation, but most popular seem to be Archoil and Rev-X. I've used Turbo Maxx for the first couple years, and now I rotate between Archoil, Rev-X, and Turbo Maxx. Figure this way I'm at least 66% effective.
Did have a great results using the Turbo Maxx initially (one of the reasons I continue to use it), and if you watch the You Tube video the practical tests are impressive.
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Old 07-14-2020, 03:28 PM   #10
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Thanks to all for the information and recommendations and links.

I'll start to pick off the lower hanging fruit this winter and stay religious on the maintenance and fluid changes.

Safe travels.
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