2008 E350 V10 Engine chugging / rattle noise - Page 3

carringb · 06-17-2020, 04:31 PM

If it makes you feel any better, any knocking from a V10 is extremely rare. When it happens, the root cause is almost always due to the wrong oil being used. It's tight passages don't tolerate straight-conventional, and it REALLY doesn't like 10w-anything oils. But use the recommended oil or full-synthetic, and it's easily a 500k motor. Any idea what the maintenance and service history was like?

86Scotty · 06-17-2020, 09:04 PM

Yeah.

I had it happen to a 5.4l. It is very rare.

Mr.Anderson · 06-22-2020, 09:24 AM

Quick question here - in the unfortunate event that either the motor needs to be completely removed from the vehicle to effect the repair and/or a completely new engine needs to go into the van - are there any upgrades which I should look into while the engine is out?

New headers, flow master, etc, etc? I haven't done the 5 star tuning kit upgrade but was eyeing that in the future, I'm not sure if now is the right time to look into that upgrade as well or not.

I'm getting the van towed to the mechanic this Thursday, we'll see what he says once he gets it.

JWA · 06-23-2020, 05:57 AM

I'm sure your mechanic will automatically check oil pressure at hot idle---I replaced a 5.4 2V due extremely low OP, didn't want the sudden surprise of a failed engine mid-trip somewhere.

IF you go with a Ford reman'd engine be aware their warranty states clearly the intake manifold should be replaced IF the cause of replacement was due any bit of valve train issue. This is highly important.

Upgrade-wise look into the packages 5 Star Tuning offers for the Ford V10 engines. I would highly recommend it but not until you've put maybe 10K miles on the replacement engine.

I can't speak to exhaust modifications as I run everything completely stock in my own 2005 E350 2WD.

While its in the shop consider the full trans fluid exchange or flush--good time as any.

ALSO if you go with the Ford reman'd engine we should talk before you order it---I've been through a bit of after-installation minor issue so could offer a few tips how to best assure the warranty stays intact. Feel free to PM me anytime.

HTH

carringb · 06-23-2020, 10:37 PM

^ I agree with JWA. Service the other under-hood fluids (trans, power steering) and add the 5-star AFTER break-in, only because a tuner (or any other upgrades) might mask a lack of power if something was wrong with the new motor or the install. There is room for power gains in the intake and exhaust, but try the tuner first.

JWA · 06-25-2020, 10:04 AM

^^^ Oh cripes that's a flashback to my own trials and tribulations with a Ford reman'd motor. DO NOT let this affect or color your choice of engines, crap can happen to any reman'd engine during initial start-up.

My own 5.4 had a slight noise or misfire-like symptom from the first revolution until it had to have the passenger side head replaced, under warranty of course. I'm fairly sure a 5 Star tune would NOT have affected warranty coverage but its good to put some mileage on first, maybe 5K miles. Ford does claim their reman'd engines are good to drive and worked hard from day one---they know the Average Jane has no idea how or even if a new engines needs broken in. (Also applies to Average Joe's, we need to be inclusive here.

) Even so its good to see how things are after a few heat cycles and excursions.

HTH

Mr.Anderson · 07-09-2020, 10:33 AM

Ok so quick update here, my van has been qt the shop for the last two weeks, mechanic said he's removed the valce covers and has checked all the rockers and lashing adjusters and nothing is wrong there.

One thing which we both have noticed is that the noise starts up after the engine has warmed up not immediately when the engine is turned on. does this tell us anything? could this be a hydraulic lifter issue? Like a bad seal that allows oil to get through when it is hot?

I'm running mobile 1 full synth 5w-20 high mileage oil which was the consensus on this 4m about being a good oil to run in these engines.

Mr.Anderson · 07-23-2020, 08:31 AM

1 month update since my poor van has been at the shop ... after verifying the rockers were ok, mechanic decided to swap out all the lash adjusters on the passenger side valve bank (this is the side of the engine where the tick is coming from). He's still working on that, but I'm really hoping that the engine will be buttoned up and we can see if it was a bad lash adjuster.

In preparation for the worst case which may be a bad rod bearing and I need a new engine, has anyone on here worked with Jasper remanned engines vs ford remanned? There's a shop that does Jasper engine installs that is about $3k cheaper than the ford dealer. Ford is quoting around $8 - $9k for this, plus 2 weeks.

Other question: If it was an exhaust manifold leak, would we see that warm up effect where it sounds ok cold, but then after 5 minutes and the engine is warm the tick becomes very pronounced or would you just hear it immediately?

86Scotty · 07-23-2020, 08:45 AM

I did a Jasper 5.4 reman. It was about $5500. No regrets.

Ask Larrie how it’s doing, he’s still driving it.

carringb · 07-23-2020, 09:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr.Anderson

Other question: If it was an exhaust manifold leak, would we see that warm up effect where it sounds ok cold, but then after 5 minutes and the engine is warm the tick becomes very pronounced or would you just hear it immediately?

Usually exhaust manifold leaks on the Modular motors are worse cold, and go away hot.

But I'm worried this shop has already opened this motor up, and doesn't know for sure wether its from the bottom end or top end?!?! Did they do any compression testing before tearing it apart?

When mine was replaced around 460,000 miles, I went with Ford. It was I think $600 more than Jasper, but Jasper was only a long-block, and the Ford motor is complete minus intake-manifold. So after the extra labor to dress the long-block, it was about a wash, but the Ford warranty was longer and unlimited miles.