35 spline Dana 60 full float upgrade - Page 2

vandiesel · 04-12-2022, 08:20 PM

Does anyone know if the centering pin lives on the diff housing or the spring pack? With the added leaf and re-arch I can eliminate the lift blocks but there is a pin on top and bottom. I’m hoping I can just pull it out of the diff and drop the springs back down.

TheLetterJ · 04-12-2022, 11:22 PM

The center pin is part of the leaf pack. It's just a through bolt with a round head. The pin in a lift block is usually just press fit, so if there's one in your spring perch, it came from the lift block and just needs to be yanked out.

vandiesel · 04-13-2022, 07:05 AM

That's what I thought but thanks for confirming. These little stoppages cause way too much overthinking.

arctictraveller · 04-13-2022, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandiesel

Hopefully when I’m back from biz trip this weekend my springs and brackets will be done at Oregon auto spring.

How was your experience with Oregon spring? Delivery time, price, quality, correct amount of lift? I"d also be interested in hearing about your experience with the Trutrac once you put some miles on it.

vandiesel · 04-13-2022, 07:47 PM

Got it all done today and buttoned up. Ride height is perfect now with slight rake and no more lift blocks. Oregon Spring was fast and easy. $500 to re-arch the springs, add a leaf, new u-bolts, and rebuild of my front shock mounts and track bar mount. I’ll post a pic tomorrow of how it sits. I will say they really know their business. My drivetrain is now completely redone since I bought the van from scummy.

vandiesel · 04-17-2022, 03:08 PM

Posted in another LSD post. My truetrac pops bad during slow turns starting out. Hopefully I can figure it out. Very disappointing.

arctictraveller · 04-18-2022, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandiesel

Posted in another LSD post. My truetrac pops bad during slow turns starting out. Hopefully I can figure it out. Very disappointing.

I'm so sorry to hear that. I've done everything I can think of to solve this issue including replacing the entire TT with a new one, but sadly, the new one does the same exact thing. Clearly, there is a manufacturing or design issue with these. I've been working with Eaton / Detroit's customer service department for months, and there have been numerous emails back and forth, but at this point they have said the issue must be with the axle housing, its not their fault, and they have cut off any further communication. The installer has gone out of their way to help, including replacing the unit even though it's out of warranty, all at no cost to me. A quick Google search will turn up other folks with the same issue, although there are plenty of folks who don't have any issues with it at all. Some folks have said adding limited slip additive helps, but that will change the torque bias making it less effective, that's why they don't recommend full synthetic oil, it's too slippery. Running Lucas 80/90 seems to help, but even using that hasn't solved the problem. I would contact Eaton's customer service to see what they say. Likely the first response they will offer, is to change to Lucas 80/90 if you haven't already. Sadly, despite plenty of folks complaining of this issue, they pretty much refuse to recognize that they may have a manufacturing defect. I wish I knew how to get them to take responsibility.

vandiesel · 04-19-2022, 09:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

I'm so sorry to hear that. I've done everything I can think of to solve this issue including replacing the entire TT with a new one, but sadly, the new one does the same exact thing. Clearly, there is a manufacturing or design issue with these. I've been working with Eaton / Detroit's customer service department for months, and there have been numerous emails back and forth, but at this point they have said the issue must be with the axle housing, its not their fault, and they have cut off any further communication. The installer has gone out of their way to help, including replacing the unit even though it's out of warranty, all at no cost to me. A quick Google search will turn up other folks with the same issue, although there are plenty of folks who don't have any issues with it at all. Some folks have said adding limited slip additive helps, but that will change the torque bias making it less effective, that's why they don't recommend full synthetic oil, it's too slippery. Running Lucas 80/90 seems to help, but even using that hasn't solved the problem. I would contact Eaton's customer service to see what they say. Likely the first response they will offer, is to change to Lucas 80/90 if you haven't already. Sadly, despite plenty of folks complaining of this issue, they pretty much refuse to recognize that they may have a manufacturing defect. I wish I knew how to get them to take responsibility.

I broke my gears in with half lucas 80-90 and half napa 80-90. Like you I've read everything there is and all roads end at an oil discussion with no root cause. I notice when it's cold it doesn't do it. I'm fine squirting 2 tubes of ford additive to make it quiet. With the weight I think it will work fine and found some reports confirming it. One person I found had this issue and was friends with an eaton engineer. He showed how binding in slow turns went away with additive with his buddy in the truck to witness and concede the fix. We'll see. They have not responded to me. I'm willing to experiment with fluids some but I have a welded diff cover with no drain. My installer is amazing and will be with me when we drain the break-in oil and inspect it. I'll report back.

vandiesel · 05-01-2022, 10:03 PM

One last big drive today to get final break-in miles. Binding is really bad. Just going around a roundabout feels like I'm driving over rumble strips. Draining and replacing oil this week. I have shell spirex 80-90 with no additives. My sense is that amsoil 75-140 synthetic is what will quiet this down even though it's not spec'd. We will see. Really P.O'd over this. No reply from Eaton.

arctictraveller · 05-02-2022, 09:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vandiesel

My sense is that amsoil 75-140 synthetic is what will quiet this down even though it's not spec'd. We will see. Really P.O'd over this. No reply from Eaton.

There was a noticeable difference in my first one when I installed the Lucas 80\90. It had 90/140 to begin with, and when I first called Eaton the guy said the heavier oil had trouble getting into the pockets where the helical gears sit. Between that evidence and the fact that some folks report an improvement using LS additive, I'd guess that a heavier oil may be less satisfactory than a lighter one. Fortunately, it's not a huge effort or expense to try a couple different oils. If you have your mechanic glue the cover gasket on just one side, you can simply loosen the bolts a bit and drain the oil into a pan without removing the cover from the housing, then tighten it back up and refill with the new oil, no drain plug needed. I look forward to hearing if the new oil helped.