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Old 07-06-2021, 11:11 AM   #1
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6.0 Diesel Coolant T's and Gauge warnings

Hi gang,

I've ranted about this before, but a while ago. If you have not replaced the plastic coolant hose T's on your Ford 6.0. Do your self a favor and just do it. I have had a 4 year battle with the stock plastic T's failing at the worse times--and thought I had replaced them all. Well, I missed one--down under the intake on the passenger side. It blew yesterday while 50 miles out in the woods. Luckily not a terrible trail repair, but still sucks while on a camping trip. I've replaced mine with brass hardware store T's, but you do you. If anyone remembers the exact I.D. on these hoses, please post below--I can't recall. I had a limp-home T that I had made for this purpose, but it is a little small.

Also, interestingly-- this was the first time this has happened: My gauges (Edge Insight, Dash, and an analog gauge) registered no issue with coolant temp when the T blew. It showed 180's degrees the entire time. The only way I noticed the issue was: a)smell of coolant, b) I have Engine Oil Temp on my Edge and it kept climbing and climbing. I'm glad I trusted my gut and pulled over. I can only assume that the coolant temp sensor is 'above' the T that blew--and the empty coolant system was not hot, because it had nothing in it. EOT got to or over 250deg before I could pull over safely. There is no idiot light on the dash at high EOT that I'm aware of. Every single one of the plastic stock T's has now cracked, blew out and caused a major road-side (or shop) repair. Most are way easier to get to when you already have your front end opened up. Just replace them.

Hope this helps someone. Otherwise had three awesome days in the sierra backcountry on an epic native rainbow trout stream and Tenkara rod shenanigans.

2005 E350 6.0 Diesel 165k on the clock. Heavy.

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Old 07-06-2021, 11:51 AM   #2
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Oddly enough I just went through something very similar (fortunate for me I was close enough to the dealer to get repaired).
Have a 2006 with the 6.0 and just had all fluids changed. Went to pick up the Van and started for home. Got about a mile away before I noticed the oil tem at 223, but coolant at 196. Never had that spread before, and at the same time a car pulled up next to me honking & and was frantically pointing to the underside of the van. I pulled over and had coolant spewing out. Immediately turned around and brought it back to the dealer - cracked radiator. As you stated, coolant temp remained just under 200 (hardly changed) but oil temp went up and NO engine code.
So I think you’re on target when you say sensor isn’t reading an issue. I would have though a low coolant light/code would have gone off at the very least????
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Old 07-06-2021, 01:44 PM   #3
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No low coolant light on the e-series.

I’d suspect your cap failed and let the system over-pressurize. Not uncommon for the original cap. Or possibly a cracked EGR cooler. Something is letting the pressure get too high. High EOT suggests blocked flow which causes the cracked EGR cooler.

Anyways…. I definitely recommend additional diagnosis besides just replacing parts…
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Old 07-06-2021, 01:45 PM   #4
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Are you referring to the T's that Sportsmobile installed to supply the flat plate heat exchanger? or installed by ford supplying rear heat option maybe?



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Old 07-06-2021, 03:21 PM   #5
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ShuttlePilot: No, the stock coolant line T's from Ford. There are several located throughout the cooling system.

carringb: I always appreciate your reply and knowledge. I've been chasing cooling system challenges for 3 or 4 years. I've replaced almost all cooling system components (cap, radiator, EGR cooler, degas bottle, hoses, T's, etc). The EGR cooler was an older replacement, so it is on the list for a new, new replacement. The plastic T's look to me to be plastic heat/age stress more than pressure, but who knows. I've been replacing Coolant caps annually as precautionary. My normal operating EOT is within 5 degrees of ECT, with only very occasional climbs into 15deg on very long, hot climbs. I'm definitely all ears on diagnosing before just replacing!
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Old 07-11-2021, 06:45 PM   #6
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Well... it looks like caringb wins the door prize yet again! I've got pretty clear signs of an EGR cooler failure, i'm loosing small amounts of coolant and getting white smoke (steam) at startup after the van is hot. Looks like not a massive crack at the moment (only steam at startup, not while running. Coolant loss is minimal).

What else should I tackle when replacing Cooler failure? I'm thinking:
EGR Cooler (probably go BPD)
Oil Cooler (same as above)
EGR valve
- These seem no-brainers.

I'm also considering:
Engine wiring harness (I think you have to pull this to get the intake off anyway?).
What else?

Turbo is new, fan clutch is new. Already have Sinister coolant bypass filter.

I've definitely made the mistake before of pulling this thing apart and only fixing the 'problems' rather than the future problems. At the same time, $$ matters...I'm not quite ready to do the head gasket and all of the injectors 'just because'. Although, given my 'luck' and 166K miles....

What say y'all?
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Old 07-11-2021, 10:04 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yovan View Post
.

What else should I tackle when replacing Cooler failure? I'm thinking:
EGR Cooler (probably go BPD)
Oil Cooler (same as above)
EGR valve
- These seem no-brainers.

I'm also considering:
Engine wiring harness (I think you have to pull this to get the intake off anyway?).
What else?

^I agree with all of these above. And yes on the wiring harness. It's likely brittle enough at this point that it won't work right after R&R'ing it.

Definitely replace the HPOP sump screen. If it's already ruptured, you might want to consider doing more (injectors and/or HPOP... but these are hard to make a decision on without more data).
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:17 AM   #8
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No idea if this would be easy to access while addressing your other items, but you may consider replacing the thermostat with low temp thermostat (fully opens earlier). Mishimoto carries one, and I believe someone mentioned that Ford also carries one.
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Old 07-12-2021, 08:55 AM   #9
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Thank you Twoxentrix. Yes, the low temp thermostat did help more than a little. I have replaced earlier in my chasing high temps journey -- but it is definitely worth it!
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Old 07-12-2021, 07:38 PM   #10
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This is such a rabbit hole... :-)

Now I'm wondering if I'm being stupid not doing dummy plugs, stand pipes and injectors while there is *better* access. My van does have signs of stiction...rough and low power when cold. FICM is good.

I guess a contribution test and some evaluation of the IPR/ICP numbers will guide that decision. Thanks caringb for an older post that gives me that data.
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