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Old 10-03-2023, 11:49 PM   #1
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6.0 E350 upgrades

Picked up a 06 6.0 E350 with SMB conversion in July of this year. Have 6 kids had a 15 duramax tired of taking two cars so got the van idea to carry all the rugrats and tow the boat. But thatís where my question comes in to play the power. Whatís the best way to get more towing power out of this van? This van has a bunch of upgrades already done just if there is anything missing that Iím about to say it would be appreciated to hear. Van has 6 inch lift on 35s and has been bulletproofed. ARP studs bulletproof oil cooler from bulletproof diesel as well as bulletproof egr. Has 4 inch exhaust turbo back. Upgraded alternator. Mag hytec trans pan upgraded tranny cooler. 4.10 gears built out from an ambulance kit heavy duty. Previous owner kept every record of everything ever done. Had a sct tuner at one point back in 2012 but it appears that has been since put back to stock. Is that all thatís needed just a tuner or is there other things not mentioned. With current setup living in Los Angeles I tow my boat 300-400 miles up various grades. I notice temps climb very fast so I constantly find on decent grades cruising around 40 mph to keep temps down mainly oil cooler. Temps hit around 215 220 is highest I ever took it. Egts stay decent around 800-1000. Would just a simple tow tune be sufficient or would I run into higher temps due to more fuel. Do any of you recommend a egr delete? And help is appreciated thanks
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Old 10-04-2023, 10:57 AM   #2
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This in info that has been pulled from many different conversations here over the years, but gives you an idea on what to be aware of...the most important is regular FLUID maintenance, and utilizing Oil & Fuel additives to protect your engine (EX: Fuel additive: Amsoil Diesel Injector Clean / Cetane Boost / and Howes 103060 Treat-Diesel conditioner with each fill-up. For Oil: I alternate every other change between Archoil & Turbo Maxx)

FLUID CHANGE INTERVAL for DIESEL:
Engine Oil: every 5,000 Miles
Transmission: Every 20,000 miles
ENGINE COOLANT CHANGE: Every 15,000 miles
Transfer Case: Every 20,000 miles
Differential fluid: Every 30,000 miles
If you have 4x4: Wheel Bearings & Hubs greased every 30,000 miles
Power Steering & Brake Fluid: every 50,000 miles
Have the AC System charged every 2 years
Have the Van “lubed” every 2 years
Have an Alignment done every year or two (depending on how much off-pavement driving you do)
IF SPORTSMOBILE: Follow the alignment specs in the Owner’s manual – if you don’t inform the shop of these special spec’s then your driving characteristic will be completely off.

DIESEL ENGINE TEMPS
***It's really going to vary between vans ( Weight, Gearing, Tire size), but here goes anyway:
• ECT: 200-225F
• EOT: 210-230F
• TFT: 200-240F (stock cooler)
• TFT: 150-180F (Tru-Cool 40k cooler)
http://forum.expeditionportal.com/th...management-6-0
• It's really a range depending on ambient temperature, hills, type of driving, and what mods you have. If your stock, as long as your EOT-ECT spread is less than 15F your golden. Don't get too worried if your ECT is 220-230F. Diesels like to run hot and the vans run hotter than the trucks...Biggest issue is the tranny getting hot. The above portal thread is a good read.

Assuming a stock tune and and coolant thermostat.
• Engine Coolant Temp (EOT)
• 180* Engine Map is in various warm up or EGR regimes. Explains why you feel more power and trans shifts at lower RPMs above 180*
• Around 212* thermostat thinks about opening.
• 218* thermostat opens fully.
• Fan will cycle noticeably above 216* ish BUT depends of other temps, measured load, and A/C pressures.
• Fan will fully engage and not cycle above 226*
• These temps seem to vary a little depending on van, so don't become mindful of hot coolant until you're seeing sustained ECT above 228*. One thing to be aware of when running hard is that it cools down quickly once over the pass, etc. Hottest I've seen 230* for a few minutes.
• Engine Oil Temp (EOT) should be below or 6-10* above ECT / 12*or more above ECT I would start to consider a restricted oil cooler.
• Rumor has it that a EOT above 236* will shut the motor down.

Trans Temps
• If your trans has a thermostat it will open at 160*. Some 5r110's don't have them. You will get a wide array of what is ideal trans temps and where to measure the temps from. My opinion is sustained I'm comfortable with under 200*. My trans (John Wood) with larger cooler and fan lives most of it's life between 164* and 180*. Highest I've seen with this setup is 192*.

Now - after reading all this;
I have a heavy Van (challenges 12k lbs, 4:56 gearing, and 35" MT Tires) so the engine works harder to move that weight. I was also concerned about higher temps on steep grades, slower 4x4 crawls, and have found the following upgrades helped tremendously to manage all my temps;
***Mishimoto aluminum Radiator
***Mishimoto Low Temp Thermostat (The stock thermostat essentially restricts your coolant until your engine temp gets to about 216 - The Mishimoto will fully open much earlier, this helps max circulation which actually allows the temps to run cooler)
***Derale 15870 Hyper-Cool Extreme Trans Cooler w/manual dash over-ride switch
***5-Star Tune (I use the 50hp tune), and I had them add a program that would kick the fan on earlier than what the OEM was programed to do. Believe they adjusted this so my fan now engages about 6 or 7 degrees earlier, but because of these mod's I've made the fan doesn't come on very often...just when I start stressing the engine, and that's exactly when I want/need it most anyway).

Here is my history before/after these mods For comparison:

HWY Travel: Coolant = 214-216 Steep Grades: 222-230 NOW: 198 -210
HWY Travel: Oil = 218-222 Steep Grades: 225 -231 NOW: 202 -220
HWY Travel: Trans = 185 - 190 Steep Grades: 200 - 210 NOW: 170-182
EDIT: Once I installed the Derale Trans cooler (it was installed so fluid flows through it before it reaches the radiator) the Coolant temps dropped about 3-4 degree's - which in turn helps Oil temps.

You do want to keep EGT's below 1100 as much as possible, and if you get into the 1200 range, it should be for a very short period of time (under 1 minute from what was explained to me). Best way to lower EGT's is to drive your RPM's up a bit (down shifting accomplishes this)
Hope this provided some insight.
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Old 10-04-2023, 11:50 AM   #3
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A tow tune like 5 star should help shift points, and apparently fan engagement according to @twoxentrix. I also think the thermostat mentioned would be beneficial, especially in SoCal. It might create a longer warmup cycle in cold regions, but I doubt it would be that noticable.



Your numbers sound pretty average, just watch those EGT's.
In my truck my TFT is usually 140-180, when it gets above 200 I pay attention. For cooling transmission temp moving at light load (even high rpm) is way better than parking and hoping it will cool down on it's own.



I'm not a huge fan of Mishimoto radiators, if yours is still intact and not leaking I would run it for now.
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Old 10-04-2023, 12:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbeefy View Post
I'm not a huge fan of Mishimoto radiators, if yours is still intact and not leaking I would run it for now.
I've already blown seams on two other "highly recommended Performance Radiator' brands.
Before I bought the Mishimoto Radiator they provided me a contact at a Shop in PA which has been doing these Ambulance conversions for many years using the Mishimoto Radiators (commented "Hundreds of them over the years") and they have never had one fail or leak - I tend to appreciate the odd's in 'practical experience'.
Coupled with: ***All Mishimoto products carry a Lifetime Warranty which includes accident protection.
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Old 10-04-2023, 01:40 PM   #5
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Mishimoto 10 or even 5 years ago is alot different than Mishimoto today.
There have been numerous reported failures in the past few years... maybe the vans treat them better.
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Old 10-05-2023, 11:55 AM   #6
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A tow tune will help but you can push the 6.0 harder than that. I back off at 1300-1400F EGTs (as measured pre-turbo) and am comfortable cruising at 1000-1100F all day long although generally I'm in the 850-950 range with a 40HP FICM tune and 80HP PCM tune and making upwards of 400HP.

OP, you did not mention if you are using the tow-haul switch on long grades? That will raise RPMs, change the transmission shift points, and lower EGTs.

An EGR delete isn't going to pass emissions in LA and there's pros and cons anyway. If it's been bulletproofed with an upgraded EGR cooler and revised OEM oil cooler than it's not really needed.

The info twoxentrix posted is most excellent!
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Old 10-05-2023, 10:32 PM   #7
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Minor point: "bulletproof oil cooler from bulletproof diesel". If this is the air cooled oil cooler that BPD used to offer then the EOT - ECT spread is not a relevant parameter to monitor.
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Old 10-09-2023, 11:01 AM   #8
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We are all offering advice here but an important question hasn't been asked yet. How heavy is the boat and trailer? This info may alter some of these replies.

My 2005 6.0 has the Atlas 40HP tune on the FICM and does quite well with a light trailer, 1-2 tons or less. When I pull a fully loaded flatbed trailer in the 7,000 lb range I'll need to downshift for the big hwy passes and keep an eye on the temps.

As a few have mentioned already, the van cools off very quickly once over the pass so just watch hitting max temps and still having a long grind ahead of you.

My van passes smog here in CA no problem with the 40hp Atlas Tune on the FICM. I was concerned about that but has proven to be no issue at all.
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Old 10-09-2023, 12:02 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn P. View Post
My van passes smog here in CA no problem with the 40hp Atlas Tune on the FICM. I was concerned about that but has proven to be no issue at all.
That is a nice bit of first hand info for the 6.0 owners to know.

- Eric
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Old 10-11-2023, 06:00 PM   #10
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Hey, where did you find that raptor like front grill ?
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