6.0 PSD Transmission Overheating Solutions

[ShuttlePilot]

crawpappy, I'm now having a memory about a firmware update a few years ago that people installed which removed several PIDs on Vans but not on trucks. When I installed my CTS in 2011 I talked to Edge on the phone about compatibility. Edge said they didn't support vans (at the time) but I could send it back if it didn't work. Since it has displayed what I'm looking for I've avoided any updates. That was seven years ago so I'm not sure what Edge has available today regarding support. Could be worth an email to Edge.

-Eric

[JoeH]

Originally Posted by carringb

It's pretty straightforward. Somebody on here a few years back posted a DIY on this exact upgrade, but I don't remember who, or what good search terms would be.

It's not quite a direct fit, but pretty close. I trimmed out one of the stock cooler supports, and mostly mounted it in the same spot, but offset to one side (so I didn't have to trim both supports), and bolted it to the radiator support top and outside bottom, and and the inner-lower tab to the remaining cooler support. Making the fittings work takes a little mixing and matching at your local Napa, since I don't think the ones they include work. Also, skip the temp bypass. The TorqueShift already has one, and the TrueCool version doesn't work well.

EtBadger was one of the first to adapt the TruCool I think. He posted on it but didn't do a DIY thread although he certainly did for other things. More info here: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...date-6370.html
BadgerTrek: Sportsmobile base Ford E350

I did this mod and the install was rather easy as Carringb indicates. But the fittings are a PIA. My local NAPA was of little help and I couldn't find a good online source either.

Here's the rub. The fittings on the Tru-Max (actually intended for a 7.3 with the 4R100) are 3/8" whereas the lines and fittings on a 6.0 with the 5R110 are 1/2". The fitting you need is a 3/8" inverted flare to a 1/2" barb. I ended up having the two pieces brazed together which works but is less than ideal and I wanted to keep the piping under the van with as few restrictions down to 3/8" as possible.

And yes, converted to 4x4 with a big aftermarket bumper and the fact that vans with a 6.0 run hot, my TFT was routinely above 200F. Going over Imogene pass I hit 270F. With the Tru-cool it barely get's hot enough to open up the transmission thermostat (~170 or 175F).

I was, however, worried about down-sizing to 3/8" fittings thru the cooler for flow rate and/or a pressure drop on the return line. The pump pressure isn't changing so I did a test to make sure I was getting the same return of flow despite the 3/8 restriction for lubrication. More in another post if anyone is interested. Sorry, kinda got long-winded there but the tranny cooler is one of the best mods I've done for my van.

[carringb]

ScanGauge doesn't do Trans temp by default, but they offer an "X-code" to program in to see that channel.

[crawpappy]

Originally Posted by JoeH

EtBadger was one of the first to adapt the TruCool I think. He posted on it but didn't do a DIY thread although he certainly did for other things. More info here: http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...date-6370.html
BadgerTrek: Sportsmobile base Ford E350

I did this mod and the install was rather easy as Carringb indicates. But the fittings are a PIA. My local NAPA was of little help and I couldn't find a good online source either.

Here's the rub. The fittings on the Tru-Max (actually intended for a 7.3 with the 4R100) are 3/8" whereas the lines and fittings on a 6.0 with the 5R110 are 1/2". The fitting you need is a 3/8" inverted flare to a 1/2" barb. I ended up having the two pieces brazed together which works but is less than ideal and I wanted to keep the piping under the van with as few restrictions down to 3/8" as possible.

And yes, converted to 4x4 with a big aftermarket bumper and the fact that vans with a 6.0 run hot, my TFT was routinely above 200F. Going over Imogene pass I hit 270F. With the Tru-cool it barely get's hot enough to open up the transmission thermostat (~170 or 175F).

I was, however, worried about down-sizing to 3/8" fittings thru the cooler for flow rate and/or a pressure drop on the return line. The pump pressure isn't changing so I did a test to make sure I was getting the same return of flow despite the 3/8 restriction for lubrication. More in another post if anyone is interested. Sorry, kinda got long-winded there but the tranny cooler is one of the best mods I've done for my van.

Thanks for the details. Is this the type of fitting?

Aeroquip FBM1211: -04AN Hose Size Male Inverted Flare Straight Brass | JEGS

[JoeH]

Originally Posted by crawpappy

Thanks for the details. Is this the type of fitting?

Aeroquip FBM1211: -04AN Hose Size Male Inverted Flare Straight Brass | JEGS

I'm not that familiar with AN fittings but I think -04 is 1/4". So, you need -06? But if that works I want two.

[Bbasso]

The 4R100 prefers to be cool, under 220 but can take very short burst up to 240 without blowing up/ irreversible damage.
My current rig (4R100) hardly ever sees above 180 temperature in the transmission.
The 5R110 that was mated to my V10 had a Rock Solid temperature of 195 no matter what I put it through including towing a 31.5 foot travel trailer through the mountains on the east coast to the sweltering summers in South Florida.
I am suspect of your transmission puking fluid, possibly the vent was clogged and pressure built up and finally cleared its throat.
Since you mentioned no burnt smell or odd coloring, I would leave it alone but definitely add a temperature gauge for your transmission before investing money into a transmission cooler. So you have a baseline reading, and can take it from there.

[crawpappy]

Originally Posted by Bbasso

The 4R100 prefers to be cool, under 220 but can take very short burst up to 240 without blowing up/ irreversible damage.
My current rig (4R100) hardly ever sees above 180 temperature in the transmission.
The 5R110 that was mated to my V10 had a Rock Solid temperature of 195 no matter what I put it through including towing a 31.5 foot travel trailer through the mountains on the east coast to the sweltering summers in South Florida.
I am suspect of your transmission puking fluid, possibly the vent was clogged and pressure built up and finally cleared its throat.
Since you mentioned no burnt smell or odd coloring, I would leave it alone but definitely add a temperature gauge for your transmission before investing money into a transmission cooler. So you have a baseline reading, and can take it from there.

Good advice. I'm going to start with trying to get my Edge to display TFT and go from there.

[daveb]

You can also add a bigger high performance pan that has a spot of a transmission temp sensor. For whatever reason my AutoMeter pan oil temps are higher than the scangauge I had, but even at that I had to be moving slow on a steep grade to get in the red zone. At the pan, it rarely triggers the 220 AutoMeter alarm set point. Normal in hot weather is about 200*. I've seen several Aluminess bumpers modified to allow more air flow through the winch area. Not sure but I was told ALuminess once offered this as an option. I'm not too sure about cutting holes in a 4K bumper and would contact Aluminess to make sure you wouldn't mess with the design strength.

[JoeH]

You might have that backwards Dave. The pan reading should be lower than the scanguage which is reading the PCM sensor in the transmission valve body. My analog gage in a Mag-Hytec pan is ~10-15 deg lower.

[crawpappy]

Switched out my Edge CTS for a Scangauge yesterday and can now monitor EOT, ECT and TFT.

Did about a 20 minute test drive and the TFT topped out around 175 with some highway and some stop-and-do driving and ambient temps around 70.