Amsoil remote adapter leak

pjpvi · 11-07-2009, 12:16 PM

To make a long story short, I had some work done at Ford and after the work
I now have oil leaking from where the two tubes enter the top of the
aluminum adapter that then feeds the remote oil filters. I cannot find any
diagrams of how those two tubes seat and/or seal into the aluminum block.
I can feel a bolt head up on top and can see the edge of a plate that must
hold the tubes into the block. I'm guessing the Dealership disconnected
the two tubes at the other end and managed to disrupt the seal at the
aluminum adapter block.

I'll try tightening the bolt I can feel, but wondered if anyone has a diagram
or can explain how these two tubes seal into the aluminum adapter block.

If it matters, this is a 2005 6.0 PSD.

It's the two tubes coming out of the top of the block as shown below.

(Image stolen from twolost. Hope that is OK.)

I've also emailed Jim, the Amsoil rep, but figured I would ask here too.

Thanks -
Phil

Ford_6L_E350 · 11-07-2009, 01:14 PM

There should O-rings on each of the two tubes where they enter the adapter block. There is a piece welded onto both tubes, and the bolt goes through that to tie it to the adaptor. Ford used a similar adapter block to get the tubes to the filter assy. Unless they removed the adapter, it shouldn't be leaking.

What kind of work did Ford do to the engine? Did it involve removing the driver's side vavle cover? Or the intake manifold? That would require removing the tubes or at least the two mounting bolts to move the tubes and the adapter aside.

Could they have spilled oil from above onto the adapter, or caused a leak higher up on the engine? Any oil on the tubes could run down onto the adapter. If you clean the oil and tubes above, does the oil reappear? Could you wrap a paper towel around the tubes to ensure the oil is not running down the tubes?

BTW, you only borrowed the picture from TwoLost. He still has his.

Mike

**BroncoHauler** · 11-07-2009, 02:58 PM

CANNOT guarantee that these are the correct instructions for your application, but these instructions should at least help you understand the parts and installation.

Herb

pjpvi · 11-07-2009, 07:02 PM

Thanks for the replies. I also got the following from Jim (the Amsoil guy). Thanks Jim.

"You can remove the aluminum block without removing the hoses to replace the O-rings for the steel tubes that come down from the top of the engine. Buy them from Ford first and then replace them also using teflon paste as you reinstall them. Clean all parts thoroughly. Once they have been used and disturbed they have to be replaced. You can try to get Ford to replace them first since they were the last ones to touch the Van."

.... and when asked if I could remove the tubes without losing a lot of oil .....

"Yes. Be prepared for about a 1/2 quart from both from the lines and the adapter block. If you can keep it up as far as possible that would help. Do it when the engine is cold."

I've already taken it back to Ford once to fix this new leak they caused, but they didn't get it fixed. Said they fixed a leak, but apparently not the right one. I'll take it back again as there is also a coolant leak that started after their repairs.

The repairs consisted of two (Yes, two) new fan clutches, turbo rebuild, oil cooler replacement, EGR valve replacement, and new a/c compressor. I'm guessing the oil cooler or EGR valve replacement may have caused them to mess with the tubes going down to the adapter block, but that's just a guess.

Never a dull moment with this engine .....

On the positive side, the engine is running better than ever!

Phil

etbadger · 11-25-2009, 10:42 AM

The oil filter tubes are removed to access the turbo-pedestal and the intake manifold, and those are removed to get into the oil-cooler and HPOP.

-e

pjpvi · 11-30-2009, 09:59 AM

Thanks Erik.

The dealership ended up digging deeper into the engine and doing a second bed plate leak repair. I am finally picking it up today.

Phil

saline · 11-30-2009, 11:53 AM

Phil,
I recommend getting a coolant filter to prevent oil cooler/EGR cooler problems in the future.

Burklin · 12-05-2009, 12:40 PM

Our recent oil leak in our 06 PSD SMB was determined to be originating from the bed plate. A dealer in Santa Cruz tells me that the problem is under warranty and it will take 6 to seven days to repair. Any one out there have experience with this particular problem and can you advise me on what I should look out for when the repair is complete?