Anybody changed the exh manifold on a 5.4?

[JWA]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

Thanks, part numbers would be great, the latest Ford OEM studs and nuts don't seem any better than the original ones.

Attached is a list of parts I purchased along with my Ford reman'd engine a while ago---the exhaust manifold hardware is included, last three items.

The SS versions are a lot better and they don't really resemble the stock steel studs I received with the reman'd engine. I did use nickel-based anti-seize on the stud threads just in case they ever need to come out again. That's not necessarily a fail-safe procedure bit it's a good way to minimize the problems associated with extracting the solid steel versions once they've become corroded and have deteriorated after years of being installed.

HTH

[E-350]

Haa! I'm exactly in the same spot arctictraveller!

I found some ticking noise some days ago and while researching I found that the rear bolts shear off and the gap might cause this kind of noise as well. So before digging into rocker arms I decided to swap the exh. manifold. Done deal: just remove all 8 bolts take it out, put a new one back in, screw it tight,...

THAT was my IDEA! :-D

But taking off the dog house I found the 2 rear bolts loose in the manifold: they broke in the head...

Right now I'm waiting for a local engine rebuilt shop to get the bolts out. He said taking the manifold off, 2 welded nuts for the broken bolts, change the other bolts and put the new manifold back in (have all parts in hand already): ~ $600.

Will tell you how it went and what I eventually paid

[arctictraveller]

The studs and nuts I currently have are about five or six years old, but since the manifold is cracked, it has to come off and the nuts are corroded to near nothing, but the studs are still in one piece. There is a lot of discussion about this on the Ford Truck forum, and some folks have claimed success preventing broken studs by coating the mating surfaces of the head and manifold with high temp anti seize, along with the nuts and studs. The theory is that because of the different expansion rates of the head and manifold, and repeated heat cycles, a lot of stress is built up that can repeatedly put the studs in shear and eventually cause them to snap. Coating the mating surfaces with anti seize may allow the manifold to move uniformly , reducing the stress on the studs because the holes in the manifold are slightly oversize. I have no idea if this will work, but with the minimum cost of some anti seize, it's worth trying. Meanwhile, as a temporary repair, I'm sealing the crack with Bluemagic 18003tri thermo steel high temp metal repair that claims it used to fix cracks on exhaust manifolds. We will see...........

[Twoxentrix]

I'm always curious when it comes to "repair" & "fix-it" remedies...Had to look this stuff up since I've never heard of it before arctic. Interesting product with mostly good reviews : Bluemagic 18003tri thermo steel high temp metal repair.
I for one would be interested to hear how it ends out working for you - Hope you post up a critique.

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

I for one would be interested to hear how it ends out working for you - Hope you post up a critique.

I sure will. Since I won't be able to get the new manifold on for about a month, this stuff should get quite a test. Since I was in the middle of a trip when I discovered the problem, I first spread some high temp silicone over the crack, but that stuff burned off almost immediately. Now I plan to stop drill the ends of the crack, clean the whole thing with a grinder, V out the crack a bit and after de-greasing with some acetone, work the stuff over and around the crack. I'll let you know...........................

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

Bluemagic 18003tri thermo steel high temp metal repair. I for one would be interested to hear how it ends out working for you - Hope you post up a critique.

Well, here's my follow up. In my case, that stuff was a complete and total failure. They claimed in numerous places that the stuff was good for repairing exhaust manifolds, in fact its sold as an "exhaust system repair kit" Yesterday, I followed the directions to the letter, and ground the crack and the surrounding area down to clean, shiny new metal using 60 grit and an angle grinder. I "V'd" out the crack, cleaned it with Acetone, then the supplied alcohol pad. It comes with a small piece of fiberglass mat and the instructions say to build up the Quicksteel 1/4 in thick on the mat before placing it over the crack, extending well past the crack. The stuff wouldn't even stick to the mat and while spreading it with a stick it just curled up and didn't stick. After getting the biggest layer possible to attach it self, I put if over the crack and waited the required 20 minutes to apply a second layer. About an hour later, the entire thing fell off. Perhaps if I had removed the manifold and layed it flat it may have stuck, but that kind of defeats the whole purpose. So, again, if it sounds too good to be true........................

[Twoxentrix]

Well that sucks - all that effort in the prep, just to cope with disappointment. But, I’m glad you followed up so we are now forewarned.
Really too bad, that stuff could/would have been a convenient (temporary) alternative to the obvious immediate fix.

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

I sure will. Since I won't be able to get the new manifold on for about a month, this stuff should get quite a test. Since I was in the middle of a trip when I discovered the problem, I first spread some high temp silicone over the crack, but that stuff burned off almost immediately. Now I plan to stop drill the ends of the crack, clean the whole thing with a grinder, V out the crack a bit and after de-greasing with some acetone, work the stuff over and around the crack. I'll let you know...........................

Reading this the first time I thought you were preparing to weld it. Cutting out a deep v-groove is going to make it much harder for the epoxy to hold whereas that would be the perfect preparation for welding.

If you could get a stick welder in there to deeply penetrate it would last longer. But if you the v grove is shallow it would create a stress riser and the crack would likely reform very quickly.

Not a ford, (but a 1979 last year Dodge 440 passenger exhaust) fighting a similar issue with a crack and going through some of the same steps with exhaust fix all. The ultimate solution was a new exhaust manifold.

[arctictraveller]

Originally Posted by posplayr

Reading this the first time I thought you were preparing to weld it. Cutting out a deep v-groove is going to make it much harder for the epoxy to hold whereas that would be the perfect preparation for welding.

The ultimate solution was a new exhaust manifold.

The instructions specifically said "If possible, V-groove the crack 1/16 to 1/8 in deep"

Since this was to only be a temporary repair it seemed reasonable. Pre-heating, welding overhead and post heating would certainly be better, but with the engine installed it would be problematic for me, and I hate overhead welding.
Your correct, a new manifold is the answer......................

[posplayr]

Originally Posted by arctictraveller

The instructions specifically said "If possible, V-groove the crack 1/16 to 1/8 in deep"

......................

Sorry, I'm thinking of a V grove that would be deeper than that in order to weld. It would be more open and have less holding power for the epoxy.