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Old 05-30-2012, 02:20 PM   #1
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Bad U-Joint?

Ok Im out driving today around town and I start to hear a funny sound. When I let off the gas pedal driving about 35-40 MPH Im getting a funny high pitch squeel. Metalic like something just slightly rubbing on a moving part. I can only hear it on de-acceleration.
I get home and crawl under to take a look and the first thing I notice is the U-joint behind the T-case has some funny fresh silver rubbing marks. The End caps that are the ones under the bolted horseshoe collar. You can see the outer end of the cap is rotating and is leaving a fresh metal ring where it is rubbing on a small section of the casting on the yoke. It is my understanding that when the U-joint is clamped down in the yoke assembaly, that the cap its holding on to does not move, only the inside of the U-joint is what moves?
Is this a common Ford part? Can I get a new one with grease jerks? Does anyone have a part number for me.
Also the bigger ends of this u-joint is held on with big c-clips is there a special tool to have to get thses off?


Yippie!! I figured out how to load a picture!!
The other side of the u-joint looks the same.
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IMAG0120.jpg  

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Old 05-30-2012, 04:38 PM   #2
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

Obviously, the U-Joint "Caps" or "Cups" should not rotate in the yoke and would indicate that the Needle Bearings in the Cups are dry, rusted, flat spotted...

U-Joint replacement is not a complicated matter, but it can be frustrating if you haven't done it before. It helps to have and Arbor Press, Hydraulic Press or even a larger Bench Vise. It can be done with a hammer and drift – I’ve done them with less in the field. You do not need more than a screwdriver and pliers to remove the clips on the ends that are in the driveshaft; and new clips are supplied with the new U-Joint.

I would do both the front and rear at the same time as you will already have the driveshaft removed from the vehicle.

What I would recommend for you is, remove the driveshaft yourself (this alone will save you some money) and take it to a driveshaft shop and have them install the U-Joints. They usually only charge $10 each to install them when you buy the new ones from them.

They are most likely 1350 U-Joints. A driveshaft shop will only sell you quality Spicer U-Joints or equivalent ($25 - $30) while a parts stores on the other hand will have cheaper foreign brands for $12 - $20 which you don’t really want.

The question of Greasable or non-greaseable is a matter or preference and concern for strength. The solid, non-crossdrilled U-Joints are stronger than the greaseable U-Joints and are the choice of serious off-roaders. I really think that either in a quality U-Joint will be plenty strong.
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Old 05-30-2012, 04:52 PM   #3
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

This may help you to start ....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=en ... U9aRWHXweU



http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/ho ... ce/1272541

http://autorepair.about.com/od/fixityou ... -Joint.htm

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Old 05-30-2012, 05:24 PM   #4
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

Thanks Guys!!
Ive got U-joints on order. Looks like it won't be to bad of a job.
Tracey
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Old 05-30-2012, 07:48 PM   #5
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

mine just blew up on me too. I limped home from the Winthrop WA Rodeo! Looks like my yoke is bad also. How do I find what u joint I need on a 04 350 6 litre v8 diesel. With a bad yoke - do I need a new drive shaft too?
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:53 AM   #6
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

Wow it must be ujoint week...

4x4kayaker if your yoke is bad it depends on which one is bad wether or not you need a drive shaft or to have the drive shaft repaired... While just repacing a ujoint is not very hard it does require some finesse to make sure it is perfect when you are through... It is really easy to have one of the needles slip out of place if you are not careful... Most good auto parts stores can help you match up the joint you need... I thought there is was a parts number forum page here that listed all kinds of things but I can't. Find it tonight..If the either yoke is indeed bad you might want to send the shaft out to a drive line shop for a rebuild and rebalance ...

Since you both have very worn ujoints you should probably check all of the joints including both ends of both drive shafts and the front axle shaft joints as well to see if any of the others are bad as well...

Good luck with your repairs...
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Old 05-31-2012, 07:53 AM   #7
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ultrasport12
Wow it must be ujoint week...

4x4kayaker if your yoke is bad it depends on which one is bad wether or not you need a drive shaft or to have the drive shaft repaired... While just repacing a ujoint is not very hard it does require some finesse to make sure it is perfect when you are through... It is really easy to have one of the needles slip out of place if you are not careful... Most good auto parts stores can help you match up the joint you need... I thought there is was a parts number forum page here that listed all kinds of things but I can't. Find it tonight..If the either yoke is indeed bad you might want to send the shaft out to a drive line shop for a rebuild and rebalance ...

Since you both have very worn ujoints you should probably check all of the joints including both ends of both drive shafts and the front axle shaft joints as well to see if any of the others are bad as well...

Good luck with your repairs...
It was made into a sticky. Very handy indeed. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=907
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Old 05-31-2012, 08:25 AM   #8
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

Thanks, it's my rear UJOINT and yoke, I'll get them all checked though
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Old 06-01-2012, 09:09 AM   #9
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

I would highly recommend having your driveshaft balanced while you're doing the u-joint work. I had mine balanced and it made a noticable difference.
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Old 06-01-2012, 10:01 PM   #10
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Re: Bad U-Joint?

The shop today told me my yoke is fine so repaier is not as complicated as first thought. I replaced with a high quality greaseable u joint.
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