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Old 03-13-2018, 07:22 PM   #11
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JoeH I don’t have any temps right now.


Yes I misspoke about the detune part. It is stock HP for the original design of the motor. I am planning on getting up to the 350 tang when all is said and done with my build.

Thank you for the heads up on the trans cooler I did not know that was an issue.

I was looking at poking holes in the hood so it looks like that is a go now. I have also been looking for a shop here in SD to do ceramic coating.

I figured that the oil cooler was the last part of the “problem”


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Old 03-13-2018, 07:44 PM   #12
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JoeH I don’t have any temps right now.


Yes I misspoke about the detune part. It is stock HP for the original design of the motor. I am planning on getting up to the 350 tang when all is said and done with my build.

Thank you for the heads up on the trans cooler I did not know that was an issue.

I was looking at poking holes in the hood so it looks like that is a go now. I have also been looking for a shop here in SD to do ceramic coating.

I figured that the oil cooler was the last part of the “problem”


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oh wow, you really are rebuilding the engine

Are you doing ARP headstuds? Same heads? If your going to run a PCM tune it's a good idea. I'm probably making close to 400 HP with combined FICM and PCM tunes.
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Old 03-13-2018, 07:48 PM   #13
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If your going to 4x4 and while you have the body off might as well go ahead, shorthen your fuel tank or buy a tranfer flow tank and install. Will take much less time and easier to do now. Chris offers a fuel tank kit to shorten the tank.
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Old 03-13-2018, 11:26 PM   #14
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Yes head studs, heads are at the machine shop now debating on o-ringing the heads, BPD EGR cooler, probably a KC Turbo stage 1, reman factory injectors, ceramic coat from exhaust to down pipe. Possibly fuel return regulator. Performance brand all aluminum radiator, new vac pump, a bunch of new sensors and EGR valve, new/rebuilt FICM don’t known if I will go BPD or ficmrepair.com (I think that is the guy) regrind the cam performed by local cam shop, Inspect bearings and fix a bed plate leak. Might do BPD water pump.

Time and Money is all I need




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Old 03-13-2018, 11:37 PM   #15
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Bell, yes addressing the tank is on my list before I put the body back down. I have a buddy that is a fabricator in the craft brew industry who has been looking for a project.


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Old 03-14-2018, 08:08 AM   #16
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Yes head studs, heads are at the machine shop now debating on o-ringing the heads, BPD EGR cooler, probably a KC Turbo stage 1, reman factory injectors, ceramic coat from exhaust to down pipe. Possibly fuel return regulator. Performance brand all aluminum radiator, new vac pump, a bunch of new sensors and EGR valve, new/rebuilt FICM don’t known if I will go BPD or ficmrepair.com (I think that is the guy) regrind the cam performed by local cam shop, Inspect bearings and fix a bed plate leak. Might do BPD water pump.

Time and Money is all I need

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How much labor does o-ringing the heads add? ~$500? It's supposed to add some clamping force to the head gaskets and is recommended for those trying to make HP. Seems a small price to pay for piece of mind. I have the KC Turbo stage 1.5. It rocks once you get in the power band. I also have the BPD water pump which is a thing of beauty but it's buried. Dieselsite also makes one much cheaper with a metal impeller blade. Good luck with the build!
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