Bulletproof Oil Cooler +/- Aluminess bumper- you experience

[Ketcham]

What I was told is they will throw any available engine into the production line. So 2010 does not necessarily mean the engine was up to date.

I did the egr delete when I purchased the van.

I will post the results and will finish bulletproofing the motor. Maybe I did something to cause the failure.

[Ketcham]

Here is my list to the mechanic: Welcome any suggestions...

Already completed on the engine:
All fluids replaced with Amsoil Synthetic. (only coolant is stock)
Airdog 2 Fuel Pump
Transmission Filter
Coolant Filter
Amsoil Micro oil filter system
Custom air intake - Zylstra Custom Intake
4” exhaust
EGR Delete
High performance Alternator 270A
Auxillary transmission cooler (custom)
Enlarged (performance) power steering cooler (Supercooler ?make)
Jody Tipton custom tune.

What I would like done:

1. ARP Head Studs
2. Injectors: Check Cylinder #3 for defect/damage
3. Fuel Injector Control Module:
a. http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/Bullet ... s/137.html 6 phase. If so, check to see if 4 pin, which it most likely is. Set to 58V--unless you disagree on voltage setting.
b. FICM program and if so have it flash to and ‘atlas 40’ tune by: http://www.ficmrepair.com/index.cfm/pag ... /cat20.htm
4. Ceramic Y-pipe to turbo and down pipe from turbo, + exhaust tape wrap and treatment. Similar or this product: Sinister Diesel Y-Pipes for Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L (Ceramic Coated & Heat Wrap)


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Sinister Diesel Y-Pipes for Ford Powerstroke 2003-2007 6...
WARNING REGARDING EMISSIONS LAWS Not legal for sale or use on pollution-controlled motor vehicles anywhere in the United States. Legal ONLY for off-road...
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5. Fuel Pressure Regulator Kit Ford F-Super Duty 6.0 ALL 3C3Z-9T517-AG 3C3Z9T517AG - The ‘Blue Spring Kit’.
6. Billet water pump by Bullet Proof Diesel
7. STC HPOP Fitting Update kit + Standpipes and dummy plugs.
8. Turbo: KC Turbo 1.5 Stage.
-or other turbo options, per suggestion. Any other upgrades around the turbo welcomed. Needs to be stainless steel/titanium. Currently having turbo issues--likely corrosion.
9. Intercooler update (it may already have this).
10. Regulated fuel return, if recommended.
11. Fuel pressure sensor addition to the EDGE insight. Already has an expansion cable.
12. Replace fuel filters, oil filters, tranny filter.
13. Ford OEM oil cooler update vs. Bulletproof Oil cooler. If bullet proof oil cooler used need to custom retrofit to the current Amsoil micro oil filtration system. Seen done once. Sportsmobileforum.com • View topic - Bulletproof Oil Cooler and AMSOil Bypass Filter Connected


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Sportsmobileforum.com • View topic - Bulletproof Oil Coo...
The time now is Fri Apr 24, 2015 7:58 pm Bulletproof Oil Cooler and AMSOil Bypass Filter Connected Sportsmobileforum.com Forum Index ›› Sportsmobiles ›› ...
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[JoeH]

You probably know this but standpipes and dummy plugs are upgraded parts while your doing the injectors. Are you going to replace all the injectors?

Anyhow, I don't know if it helps but replacing the injectors and doing the remote oil cooler are two different jobs. That is, the parts that need to come off and do the injector job does not make the labor any cheaper when doing the remote oil cooler. At least not much but I suppose it doesn't matter if the engine is coming out to do headstuds.

Looks like you've got it pretty much figured out. I disagree on the need for the remote oil cooler but we can argue that one until the cows come home. But since you asked for suggestions mine would be to skip the BPD FICM power supply. The 58V dealio is unnecessary and just adds more heat. I would research this one some more before hitting the purchase button. I had mine rebuilt by Ed at FICMrepair with upgraded parts and the lifetime warranty. If your going to send it to him for the Atlas40 why not just have him do the work? Your going to have to send him the BPD powersupply with your logic side to have him install the Atlas40 anyway? You can use the $200 in savings over the purchase of the BPD FICM to pay for the Atlas40. My 2cents.

How many miles are on your rig anyway?

[Ketcham]

Joe,

I am more on your side regarding the remote oil cooler as maybe not necessary if I am replacing my coolant every two year regardless of miliage. I wonder if the tubing fails over a few years and have to monitored for leakage.

This mechanic suggested 53V option and not do the FICM flash as he has seen software corruption of the FICM. He has a KISS philosophy....keep it stupid simple.

I will call Ed later this week and have his input.

Can you do the injectors easily without pulling the motor? If I have two failing #2, #3, then I will replace all with OEM new. Any aftermarket ones better?

Cost of parts are only a small fraction...labor is the true cost. Reliability is essential.

appreciate the responses!

J

[Ketcham]

I have had 4 independent mechanics believe G05 is fine for these engines, with frequent flushes.

With everything ripped apart and a customer willing to pay for the work, I do not believe they would be biased against the flush because it is a PITA. If they believed it was beneficial, I would think they would support it.

...I know another topic entirely.

[JoeH]

I agree on the coolant as long as it's maintained. The BPD oil cooler system is total overkill. The problem with the OEM cooler is the coolant, not the cooler. With a coolant filter and periodic changes problem solved. IMO. 92,000 miles on mine and it was still going strong when I did my delete. There are definitely pros and cons to the flush. I opted against it as I didn't want harsh chemical in my engine. Time will tell if that was a wise decision.

It's usually the power side of the FICM that fails. I haven't heard one report on the diesel forums of a FICM flash corrupting the logic side of the FICM. Ask Ed. He'll take the time to talk to you without trying to sell you anything.

It's the passenger side that is a PIA with the injectors. You have to raise the engine off the motor mount to gain access. Thus, it makes sense to replace all the injectors from a labor standpoint. They are pricey little buggers and your mechanic will charge $300 ea. This is the best price I've seen:
http://parts.autonationfordwhitebearlak ... 3Z9E527BRM

Or here: http://lincolndieselspecialties.com/c-1 ... e-6-0.html

I believe the part # is the same for the truck as the van. If you are upgrading the injectors to 190/30 most seem to recommend Holders.

[outopawn]

Joe,

I guess it is what you are trying to accomplish. The reason I went with the diesel was to tow a 8500lb trailer and have the versatallity of the transformer SMB. I was never really able to use the power of the diesel to get over most grades without having the temperatures sore to well over 230. Im sure the aluminess bumper did not help the situation. I even fabricated an air damn but just could not get the airflow to cool that darn thing. The fan was screaming the entire grade and I had to really back off the throttle just to get temp to drop to a safe range to make it over the summit. There are some pretty good grades in California. I first tried the the bulletproof EGR cooler to bring my ECT and EOT delta into the correct range. I also installed a coolant filter and had very little success keeping the temps to a comfortable range. The 6.0 had all this power but I could not use it and the heat caused all kind of problems but thats a whole other thread. I then installed a methanol system thinking if I could keep the EGTs down maybe the ECT would stay within a good range. I did gain a little more HP but this did not have much success keeping ECT down. Finally the 6.0 had enough of the heat and burned up an injector and blew a hole in one of the pistons. I decided to completely rebuild the thing doing whatever it took to make this thing a tow machine. That is the reason I bought it and didnt realize at the time the van had such a problem with overheating. I even had the block sent out to be Cryogentically treated to handle the higher temperatures. This is all good but I believe it is the BP oil to air cooler that has kept the Oil temps down to a perfect level of 190 - 220 max even of steep grades. And by removing the Coolant /Oil exchange in the middle of the block the Coolant temps have been perfect as well. I belive the Oil Temps heated the Coolant temps and because the coolant was now hotter they heated each other. They kind of fed on each other. This exchange does not happen with the BPD Air to Oil system. Even at at crawl speed the temps will not climb like before.

So if your intention is to be able to safely tow something and not have the overheating problem that the vans have with the 6.0 I would do this first and not last. I have since sold this van and now have a 2009 E350 Quigley V10 EB that tows the same trailer without the overheating problem. Dont get me wrong I was never trying to take these grades at 60mph but I would have to go to a crawl to just make it over. Not what I expected from a Diesel, but from a gasser. That's because I have to do now with the v10 but temps stay in safe range.


Steve

[Ketcham]

Steve, did you or anyone else with an air-oil cooler mount it behind the radiator, next to the steering cooler and not down low where the aluminess bumper is? Steve, when you had the 6.0, how did you get around the Aluminess with the oil cooler?

[outopawn]

I put it in the Aluminess and removed the winch that I used once to pull out a Ranger stuck in the sand at Lake Powell in 110* heat. Ha

[JoeH]

Originally Posted by outopawn

Joe,

I guess it is what you are trying to accomplish. The reason I went with the diesel was to tow a 8500lb trailer and have the versatallity of the transformer SMB. I was never really able to use the power of the diesel to get over most grades without having the temperatures sore to well over 230. Im sure the aluminess bumper did not help the situation. I even fabricated an air damn but just could not get the airflow to cool that darn thing. The fan was screaming the entire grade and I had to really back off the throttle just to get temp to drop to a safe range to make it over the summit. There are some pretty good grades in California. I first tried the the bulletproof EGR cooler to bring my ECT and EOT delta into the correct range. I also installed a coolant filter and had very little success keeping the temps to a comfortable range. The 6.0 had all this power but I could not use it and the heat caused all kind of problems but thats a whole other thread. I then installed a methanol system thinking if I could keep the EGTs down maybe the ECT would stay within a good range. I did gain a little more HP but this did not have much success keeping ECT down. Finally the 6.0 had enough of the heat and burned up an injector and blew a hole in one of the pistons. I decided to completely rebuild the thing doing whatever it took to make this thing a tow machine. That is the reason I bought it and didnt realize at the time the van had such a problem with overheating. I even had the block sent out to be Cryogentically treated to handle the higher temperatures. This is all good but I believe it is the BP oil to air cooler that has kept the Oil temps down to a perfect level of 190 - 220 max even of steep grades. And by removing the Coolant /Oil exchange in the middle of the block the Coolant temps have been perfect as well. I belive the Oil Temps heated the Coolant temps and because the coolant was now hotter they heated each other. They kind of fed on each other. This exchange does not happen with the BPD Air to Oil system. Even at at crawl speed the temps will not climb like before.

So if your intention is to be able to safely tow something and not have the overheating problem that the vans have with the 6.0 I would do this first and not last. I have since sold this van and now have a 2009 E350 Quigley V10 EB that tows the same trailer without the overheating problem. Dont get me wrong I was never trying to take these grades at 60mph but I would have to go to a crawl to just make it over. Not what I expected from a Diesel, but from a gasser. That's because I have to do now with the v10 but temps stay in safe range.

Steve

Oh for sure, if I was pulling a 2 ton trailer across Death Valley the BPD oil cooler is a no brainer. My point was that for most applications it is overkill, especially considering the cost. It is awesome that it made a huge difference for you. But for many of us with the 6.0 it's also important to recognize that, contrary to popular opinion, the stock oil cooler is quite reliable when fluids and filters are properly maintained. The critical piece of the puzzle is a coolant filter is mandatory but that's ~$100.

Besides the BPD cooler perhaps the 2nd best way to get the EOT and EGTs down is to remove the restriction in the exhaust. Kill the kitty but that's not an option for those that live in areas with smog checks.

I still don't trust the Ford Gold and the silicates it contains. That's what plugs the small passageways in the OEM oil cooler. Hence, the switch to an ELC coolant which is silicate free. Between that, and the EGR delete, I believe I have a reliable setup at a lower price point. Like you say, it's about the application. Good discussion.