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Old 06-25-2015, 10:56 AM   #11
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

I agree with the expertise element but remember you aren't hanging around while the work is done. This level of work could take "weeks" to accomplish. So you have the transportation back home and then back to arrange too. As to the engine plucker I recollect it being a Ford tool as previously mentioned. My shop was East County Diesel; 619-334-6005, if you have any questions about it. They should remember me and be cooperative, I feel like I'm a part owner! They had a non conversion van body off the frame when I was there for my work but they also quickly realized the difficulty in getting to the body bolts and found this tool during their research.

As to the original poster - I hope a thorough cylinder head check is included in your work.

I now have one year and 10,000 miles since my major work was done and have not had a single problem related to it. But my fingers stay crossed!
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Old 06-25-2015, 11:37 AM   #12
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

Yes I do plan to get the cylinders machined. I have about twelve things on my list. Mostly from research here on this site.

If I need to drive it six hours round-trip, no problem. I spoke to the guys again this morning and they said pulling the engine from the front will not be a big deal. It will require more hours than pulling off the body but said they can do it. They have done tons of trucks and a lot of vans just never an SMB.

Now I just have to decide on things like a new radiator, FICM, turbo wheel, etc. It doesn't really need these but i will eventually. Better to do now or wait until they go out?

Total is already at $6k.
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Old 06-25-2015, 12:23 PM   #13
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

Your shop must not have a $118 / hour shop rate as here in San Diego. I topped out around $16K for my round 2. Hopefully you will not need new cylinder heads!
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Old 06-25-2015, 01:48 PM   #14
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

I just finished mine.

1. He used a fork lift to pull engine out the front.
2. Expect it to take weeks...mine was 6 weeks due mechanic back log and parts.
3. Do a regulated fuel return and fuel pressure gauge.
4. I had a 2010 motor that had some new parts like HPOP but old parts from 2001...Frankenstein assembly. So new engine does not mean all updated parts.
5. Total cost TBD...I believe over 10K but under 15K. But I left no stone unturned.

Contact me by PM for other suggestions and personal list of must do's.
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Old 06-25-2015, 02:47 PM   #15
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

TBUNCH - you might want to research that cylinder head (if that is what you meant) machining some more. I remember some controversy on doing that. I had my transmission front seal and rear main seal done while accessible. I wish I would have known to replace the brake booster pump while in there, $450 labor recently to replace it. The FICM is no problem to get to anytime.
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Old 06-25-2015, 06:38 PM   #16
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

You can take up to .008 off heads
Valve to guide clearance .002-.0027
Valve recession .013-.027 prefer .026-.030
valve height is 2.225"-2.230" after milling
try to set @ 2.220" for proper lifter preload
if you go with hardened seats for with Stelite
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Old 06-27-2015, 02:44 PM   #17
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

This is most of my list. Some things have questions marks so I have yet to decide on those. Anything big that I am missing?
• Coolant
• Oil filters
• Oil rail plugs
• Gaskets
• HPOC
• Rear Seal
• Front & Rear Crank Seals
• Machine Heads
• ARP Head Studs
• Clean Intake
• EGR Delete
• FICM?
• Radiator?
• Turbo – updates drain tube and fill line / clean turbo / new wheel ?
• Stand Pipes & plugs
• FICM?
• Coolant filter
• Water Pump?
• SCT Tuner with 50hp tow tune
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:16 PM   #18
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by TBUNCH
This is most of my list. Some things have questions marks so I have yet to decide on those. Anything big that I am missing?
• Coolant
• Oil filters
• Oil rail plugs
• Gaskets
• HPOC
• Rear Seal
• Front & Rear Crank Seals
• Machine Heads
• ARP Head Studs
• Clean Intake
• EGR Delete
• FICM?
• Radiator?
• Turbo – updates drain tube and fill line / clean turbo / new wheel ?
• Stand Pipes & plugs
• FICM?
• Coolant filter
• Water Pump?
• SCT Tuner with 50hp tow tune
I basically did the same but I didn't do the radiator or water pump because it was done recently. FICM was done last year and the wiring harness. Both are kind of expensive but wise to do the harness while you're in there. They also had to replace the cam sensor and an expensive idler pulley plus some other odds and ends that jacked up the labor price. I got out under 14K but still thought the total was a little high especially since I didn't do a remote oil cooler. A shop doing some bullet proofing in Fresno is heat wrapping the harness... something I'd like to do. I also wish I'd have done the regulated fuel return system discussed here.

Here was the basic quote:
Attached Thumbnails
6.0 rebuild quote - Copy.JPG  
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:30 PM   #19
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

I just went through this process and suggest:

Regulated fuel return and fuel pressure monitor. I lost my fuel pump and blew 3 of 5 injectors.
Airdog2 (carry an extra motor)
Edge insight with turbo shutoff, fuel pressure monitor, Exhaust Gas Pyrimonitor.
Turbo rebuild per turbochargersystems.com or billet inner at least. My ECT are now 300 less and pulling grade with tune does not reach over 1000 yet on 100 degree day.
Exchange the vacuum boost breaks for E550 hydroboost and master cylinder.
Heat wrap the up pipes and down pipes around turbo. Sinister Diesel has a kit, as they do for the regulated fuel return....both are compatible to E series.
Consider custom air intake, but in retrospect, likely unnecessary.
I did the bullet proof water pump.
check the oil pump.
HPOP fitting update.
Consider auxiliary transmission cooler. Van at almost #13,000 required this.

EDIT: I have a winch and Aluminess bumper otherwise would have gone air-oil cooler. Something to consider. The hoses require maintenance after 4-5 years.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:09 PM   #20
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Re: Bulletproof Problem

Also, I modified the engine compartment wall and fender vents. The passenger side vent blows like a hairdryer! Heat likely contributed to my head gasket failure and the engine needs to breathe.
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