Bulletproofing diesel; what and when

Kelso · 07-18-2013, 12:27 AM

Hey guys, this is the first post I've made in regards to my new van. I've learned so much from this site and have found it to be an invaluable resource.

I know there are tons of 6.0l diesel threads, but I'm hoping for some advice that's pertinent to my situation.

I recently got my new van and I'm looking for some mechanical advice from the diesel owners and experts out there. My van is a 2008 Ford E350 6.0l Diesel and I got it with 700 miles on the odometer. Despite having sat for a while, the van drives great and feels like a new engine, but I want to make sure I do the right things off the bat to keep my 6.0l trouble free (if there's such a thing). I do plan on bulletproofing the engine, but I don't think I need to do that right away and I can't afford to do it right now anyway. I'm thinking that for now, I will get the turbo cleaned and change all the fluids. I am also having fender vents installed now while the van is at Van Specialties getting the interior set up for me. I'm hoping those will help get some airflow through that compact engine compartment. Does anyone have any other thoughts for me on what I might want to address? I'm also looking for recommendations on what Scanguage setup to get.

Given that my limited warranty will be up before I really get to do a lot of serious driving, when would you guys recommend doing the bulletproofing? Are there any specifics shops anyone would recommend for 6.0l maintenance in the Portland, OR area? I'm also curious if anyone has had any luck with a tuner on their 6.0l after the bulletproofing.

Thanks!
Kelso

carringb · 07-18-2013, 01:26 AM

Start by adding a coolant filter. With that few miles, getting the crud out of the system may be all you need to avoid the EGR/oil cooler problems!

Other than that, follow the maintenance tables, and only use Motorcraft or Racor filters.

I wouldn't recommend a tuner without first freeing up the exhaust and adding an EGT monitor.

JoeH · 07-18-2013, 03:27 AM

This^^^^^

edit to add: even with the low mileage you might want to get the starting batteries load tested. If one is toast it will kill the other and also overwork the alternator and also lead to premature failure of the FICM.

mossbeachpaul · 07-18-2013, 08:25 AM

Nothing is more crucial than changing the oil frequently. Coolant also. Grade of each is important. Use the factory spec coolant and a premium grade motor oil such as Delo.

I change my oil at 3k mile intervals,a bit overkill, but over the long haul,less expensive than an $8k + injector replacement. Remember that the injectors are hydraulically actuation-assisted via a high pressure pump by the engine oil. Keep it clean

Carringb mentions coolant filter. Good idea bit Istill change the coolant every 24 mos (which is probably o ly20 kmiles for me)

I'm still under the warranty but at some point I'll probably explore an EGR delete approach. Quite illegal here inCA so might not be an option by then....

One other thing about the 6.0 PSD - RUN it every time you use it. Spin up that turbo and make it work, It's designed for that. Cool it down for a couple of minutes before you turnoff the engine.

Navistar's EGR approach to emissions has provento be problematic, Lots of hot, filthy exhaust air and particulate being breathed back into the power plant requiring the oil and fuel to performat peak design, butifyouknow that and adhere to rigorous maintenance, this can easily be a 300,000 mile+ motor.

mossbeachpaul · 07-18-2013, 08:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mossbeachpaul

Nothing is more crucial than changing the oil frequently. Coolant also. Grade of each is important. Use the factory spec coolant and a premium grade motor oil such as Delo.

I change my oil at 3k mile intervals,a bit overkill, but over the long haul,less expensive than an $8k + injector replacement. Remember that the injectors are hydraulically actuation-assisted via a high pressure pump by the engine oil. Keep it clean

Carringb mentions coolant filter. Good idea bit Istill change the coolant every 24 mos (which is probably o ly20 kmiles for me)

I'm still under the warranty but at some point I'll probably explore an EGR delete approach. Quite illegal here inCA so might not be an option by then....

One other thing about the 6.0 PSD - RUN it every time you use it. Spin up that turbo and make it work, It's designed for that. Cool it down for a couple of minutes before you turnoff the engine.

Navistar's EGR approach to emissions has provento be problematic, Lots of hot, filthy exhaust air and particulate being breathed back into the power plant requiring the oil and fuel to performat peak design, butifyouknow that and adhere to rigorous maintenance, this can easily be a 300,000 mile+ motor.

Excuse the last,,, meant oil and coolant must perform at highest level,,,

Kelso · 07-18-2013, 10:33 AM

Thanks for the great info guys. I will definitely look into adding a coolant filter first thing, thanks for the tip on that! I will also make sure I'm on top of my coolant and oil changes.

As for the EGR, I was hoping to at some point go with a Bulletproof Diesel EGR as opposed to an EGR delete kit. Not sure if anyone has opinions on pros or cons, but I'd prefer to know my vehicle is still up to emissions standards and not have any check engine light issues.

The main thing that got me interested in the tuners is Ujoint's 6.0l upgrade kit that includes an 80hp tuner. I would definitely want to do exhaust at the same time, but am more just curious if anyone has had any luck with a tuner on their 6.0l. Everyone always say to keep things stock.

I am definitely interested in getting a digital monitor to keep tabs on my temps (as well as my fuel consumption), and I'm curious what you guys recommend for that. I've been looking at the Scanguage II and the edge insight cts monitors. Any info or personal experiences with digital monitors would be greatly appreciated!!

Ford_6L_E350 · 07-18-2013, 11:22 AM

Not sure where you, but if you are concerned about passing smog you may want to think about an 80 HP tuner. Since a 40HP tuner can make some black smoke (potential cause for failure in CA) an 80HP tuner will probably make it worse.

The 6.0 in a van was rated at 235HP while in a P/U it was rated at 325HP, primarily because the van engine compartment is so tight and there are issues cooling more horsepower. A side benefit is the vans don't have the headgasket failures the P/U's do. If you really want to make more power I would suggest you pull the body off and install ARP studs to replace the headbolts. Those stronger fasteners greatly reduce headgasket failures.

Mike

carringb · 07-18-2013, 12:26 PM

The 80 HP tune should not pose a problem for passing DEQ testing in Portland, since vans over 8500 pounds are exempt from testing.

TwoVans · 07-18-2013, 02:22 PM

Cold air intake and 4" exhaust can help it breathe, among other things. With a budget, I would prioritize monitoring the temps. You may never have a problem with a stock motor and save big bucks vs. fixing something that isn't broken.

I went with Edge Insight. I monitor oil, coolant, EGT, and transmission temps with it. Theory being, if you catch the oil and coolant temps starting to diverge under a constant load, you have identified the heat exchanger problem before it causes damage. Thus, making it a maintenance issue vice a catastrophic failure which the motor is famous for.

E350 · 07-18-2013, 04:14 PM

You may want to check out the links on this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=10572