Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketcham
Of those who have done this job themselves, is it pretty involved or similar to changing oil and transmission fluid. Open the drain, and refill?
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Changing the transmission fluid at least on the 6.0l diesel is much more difficult than changing the engine oil, but maybe you don't have a diesel. In any case you might search a bit more, I know there are a lot of post regarding this.
You would be wise to follow the maintenance schedule as that first change to get the metal filings out is important.
Personally I found changing the Atlas T case pretty painless, with the right preparation. Changing the fluid in my front Proroc 60 was a bitch - mainly getting the front cover off with out causing damage to the mating surface.
Here are my notes that I compiled - hope they help and your fluids may differ:
CHANGING FLUID IN ATLAS TRANSFER CASE
• Change Interval: every 20,000 miles
• Lubricant: 2 qts Amsoil 75-90 Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube – GL4 (Product MTGQT) – It is honey colored and in clear plastic bottle – Front Differential is 75-90 but “Severe Gear” and in black plastic bottle – don’t get them mixed up
Talked to Atlas about proper way to fill T-Case:
• Easiest method would be to drain fluid out bottom opening drain plug (7/8” socket – ½” drive) – take note of drain plug – it has small rubber gasket inside washer – don’t disturb - lube drains out pretty easily into 5 gal. bucket
• Take off upper end of “fill tube” at the rear of the T-Case - you will need to disconnect speedo wire and make sure to re-attach it when done – some oil will drain out this tube
• To remove top sight tube connection, you will need 11/16” & 5/8” open end wrench
• Fill “Oil Safe” container up with 2 qt. lube and route inlet over top of T-case, you will need a helper to do the pumping while you hold inlet tube in place – pretty easy to pump, works well
• Will need Teflon tape to re-tighten fitting, don’t over tighten as you are dealing with aluminum fittings – should see level rise up to old mark on sight tube
• Remember to reattach Speedo wire
For differential:
CHANGING FLUID ON DYNATRAC PROROC 60 FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
• Have 13 bolts to take off, use 5/16” – 12 point ¼” drive
• Use Gasket Scrapper tool but will need several new razor blades
• Have to remove cover plate – sucking will not work and you could damage ARB locker as it has a copper air line that runs right by the fill hole
• Use big chisel and big hammer (try ball peen hammer but ended up using small sledge hammer) - try not to damage plate
• I used Permatex Blue RTV (it lists uses as differential covers) but Red silicone was originally on cover, and Black RTV also listed for differential
• Be careful not to gouge mating surfaces, and if by pounding cover off, you have gouges, use Emery cloth sandpaper with steel block to sand smooth & level
• ARB manual says clean or replace vent tube
• Clean all mating surfaces with denatured alcohol
• Don’t over tighten fastners
• I only put RTV Blue on one side, and moderately tighten, then come back in 1 hour to fully tighten cover as called out on Permatex instructions
• Fill with 2 Qt. Amsoil Syn 75W90 Gear Lube “Severe Gear” in the black bottle (Product Code SVGQT)
• ARB maintenance manual said to fill near top of fill hole, then manually rotate front drive shaft and see if it needs any more
• Called Dynatrac – he said they put in 85W-140 non-synthetic, but said lots of folks use Amsoil
• Also note that Ford Tech put longer vent tube in