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Old 01-16-2011, 01:21 PM   #11
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Re: Changing Front Differential Fluid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketcham
Of those who have done this job themselves, is it pretty involved or similar to changing oil and transmission fluid. Open the drain, and refill?
Changing the transmission fluid at least on the 6.0l diesel is much more difficult than changing the engine oil, but maybe you don't have a diesel. In any case you might search a bit more, I know there are a lot of post regarding this.

You would be wise to follow the maintenance schedule as that first change to get the metal filings out is important.

Personally I found changing the Atlas T case pretty painless, with the right preparation. Changing the fluid in my front Proroc 60 was a bitch - mainly getting the front cover off with out causing damage to the mating surface.

Here are my notes that I compiled - hope they help and your fluids may differ:

CHANGING FLUID IN ATLAS TRANSFER CASE
• Change Interval: every 20,000 miles
• Lubricant: 2 qts Amsoil 75-90 Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube – GL4 (Product MTGQT) – It is honey colored and in clear plastic bottle – Front Differential is 75-90 but “Severe Gear” and in black plastic bottle – don’t get them mixed up
Talked to Atlas about proper way to fill T-Case:
• Easiest method would be to drain fluid out bottom opening drain plug (7/8” socket – ½” drive) – take note of drain plug – it has small rubber gasket inside washer – don’t disturb - lube drains out pretty easily into 5 gal. bucket
• Take off upper end of “fill tube” at the rear of the T-Case - you will need to disconnect speedo wire and make sure to re-attach it when done – some oil will drain out this tube
• To remove top sight tube connection, you will need 11/16” & 5/8” open end wrench
• Fill “Oil Safe” container up with 2 qt. lube and route inlet over top of T-case, you will need a helper to do the pumping while you hold inlet tube in place – pretty easy to pump, works well
• Will need Teflon tape to re-tighten fitting, don’t over tighten as you are dealing with aluminum fittings – should see level rise up to old mark on sight tube
• Remember to reattach Speedo wire

For differential:

CHANGING FLUID ON DYNATRAC PROROC 60 FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
• Have 13 bolts to take off, use 5/16” – 12 point Ό” drive
• Use Gasket Scrapper tool but will need several new razor blades
• Have to remove cover plate – sucking will not work and you could damage ARB locker as it has a copper air line that runs right by the fill hole
• Use big chisel and big hammer (try ball peen hammer but ended up using small sledge hammer) - try not to damage plate
• I used Permatex Blue RTV (it lists uses as differential covers) but Red silicone was originally on cover, and Black RTV also listed for differential
• Be careful not to gouge mating surfaces, and if by pounding cover off, you have gouges, use Emery cloth sandpaper with steel block to sand smooth & level
• ARB manual says clean or replace vent tube
• Clean all mating surfaces with denatured alcohol
• Don’t over tighten fastners
• I only put RTV Blue on one side, and moderately tighten, then come back in 1 hour to fully tighten cover as called out on Permatex instructions
• Fill with 2 Qt. Amsoil Syn 75W90 Gear Lube “Severe Gear” in the black bottle (Product Code SVGQT)
• ARB maintenance manual said to fill near top of fill hole, then manually rotate front drive shaft and see if it needs any more
• Called Dynatrac – he said they put in 85W-140 non-synthetic, but said lots of folks use Amsoil
• Also note that Ford Tech put longer vent tube in
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Old 01-16-2011, 03:40 PM   #12
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Re: Changing Front Differential Fluid

So glad you posted this. I am about to undertake both and I am getting the last of the supplies shipped to me this week. Looks like a made a mistake already and glad I read this. I was under the impression the Atlas and the dynatrac used the same gear oil so I bought 6 qts of Amsoil 75-90 Manual Transmission & Transaxle Gear Lube – GL4 (Product MTGQT). Looks like I need the one in the black container instead for the Dynatrac. I bought the oil directly from Amsoil online and picked up their hand pump for $11 to help. It arrived in two days since they have distribution centers all over.

I also bought a gasket for a Dana 60 but all I could find was gaskets that were 10 bolts and ours is 13. I thought I can drill a couple of holes in it (only $4 so we will see if it works)? Also got the black RTV sealer since most guys on the Ford enthusiast board recommend the black due to its high heat ability (either black or red high heat RTV gasket maker). Red is original and Ford manual actually calls out for Red RTV but it can be a mess and black works just as well and won't make a mess if you get it on other stuff.

I am going to undertake the Atlas oil change, Dynatrac axle change, and repack the wheel bearings on the front Dana. Just been gathering parts for everything first.
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:23 PM   #13
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Re: Changing Front Differential Fluid

They say gaskets are best, as the cover is a structural part of the housing and the silicone can move, but mine has been just fine now coming up on a year. Big thing is you sure don't want any leaks once you get the new fluid in and everything tight - that would be a big bummer.
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Old 01-16-2011, 04:29 PM   #14
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Re: Changing Front Differential Fluid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roonie
... I bought the oil directly from Amsoil online and picked up their hand pump for $11 to help. It arrived in two days since they have distribution centers all over...
The pump is worth it's weight in gold if you ask me. Even for adding engine oil it can't be beat, especially if using oil containers larger than the single quart size.


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Old 01-16-2011, 09:24 PM   #15
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Re: Changing Front Differential Fluid

Stikine,

Thank you for the detailed info, and everyone who replied. Those who have the ARB airlockers, did you change out lube at 1500 miles or after some break in period? Not sure why the airlockers require this, unless the mod itself can create metal flakes.

-j
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Old 01-16-2011, 10:16 PM   #16
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Re: Changing Front Differential Fluid

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketcham
Thank you for the detailed info, and everyone who replied. Those who have the ARB airlockers, did you change out lube at 1500 miles or after some break in period? Not sure why the airlockers require this, unless the mod itself can create metal flakes.
Not sure, but the lockers themselves are metal which uses air to engage them. Like any fresh machined moving parts in your diff, the pieces will probably produce metal shavings under use.

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Old 01-20-2011, 04:14 PM   #17
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Re: Changing Front Differential Fluid

I just changed out the gear oil for the Atlas transfer case and am glad I did. There were quite the amount of black metal shavings in there. To those who are just purchasing a new SMB take note. I picked up Kitten in Las Vegas at 500 miles, the recommended change for break in. Went to SMB and then by the time I came home had 2500 miles on the van, with the plethora of information provided. Let's just say I missed some essential mile markers.

It was an easy process as described previously. My Atlas case required a 3/4" wrench not 11/16. I would like to add one point of clarity for those who are unfamiliar with this process as I was. The brass fitting backs off the aluminum fitting without moving the fill tube that is connected at both ends. It would be helpful to have an assistant to hold the aluminum fitting with one wrench, and brass 90 degree turn with their hand. The brass fitting will spin off with the 3/4" wrench, leaving everything set in place without straining the fill tube.

I appreciate all the help everyone has provided.
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