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Old 08-27-2013, 09:07 PM   #41
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

What an invasive BS site! Glad our site isn't like that. But it got the point through and is a great write up for sure.

So it does look like you really need to keep the bottom structure in place. My body guy also agreed and even wanted to add extra support underneath the hood. The louver manufacture said about the same. We'll see. The 10x17's would look nice.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:48 PM   #42
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

When I read the title to this thread I thought that someone was going to weld up their bumper and run engine coolant through it....the bumper is aluminum after all.

Increased coolant volume and lots of aluminum surface area, what's not to like?

For the amount of $$ Aluminess charges, I figured maybe they come that way.....
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:17 PM   #43
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

In the last two days I've towed 750 miles

A little recap

9000 lb travel trailer
Ujoint 6" lift E350 EB 4.56 gears and 35" tires 6.0PSD
80hp tune
EGR delete
40,000 BTU rad cooler
Aluminess Front Bumper
Roof Rack
No AC running
75-80 degrees ambient
65 MPH
800 degrees on the pyro
261 TFT
Lake George NY to Chicago, pretty flat terrain overall!


FWT 209-216
EOT 215-224

The rig is constantly bumping into the fan start number of 215, fan starts and cools things rapidly down to 211 or 209. Fan turns off, things heat up, repeat.

It seems based on how fast things cool down that as soon as the entire rad has good flow from the engine fan that we have enough surface area to cool but not enough flow.

I wonder coming full circle if I installed an electric fan on the lower portion of the rad. The portion that is obstructed by the bumper if I would significantly reduce the number of fan cycles.

Also, can the fan clutch programing be altered? Could it come on at 210 say and stay on until 200?

Last, my big transmission cooler is working great, maybe too great. Maybe I should move it out of the flow and just add an electric fan to it's face? If I removed it from the best air and let the rest of the rad stack take the flow would it make a difference?

Thoughts?

Jim

2006 EB Ujoint 6"
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:17 AM   #44
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

TFT 261 and the trans cooler is working well??? Did you mean to type 161?

Mike
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Old 09-05-2013, 09:58 AM   #45
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

Just checking to see if anyone is paying attention.

Yes 161 TFT!!!

Colorado line by morning!

Jim
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Old 09-05-2013, 11:00 AM   #46
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

Running down the highway, even with a load, is fairly easy on the transmission temps. The trans gets hottest at low rpm's (below 2K) with the converter unlocked. All that converter slippage is converted into heat! Around town and off-road generate higher TFT's. And, the Torqueshift trans has a builtin thermostat, so you can't overcool the fluid.

Mike
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Old 09-08-2013, 10:06 AM   #47
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

Ok the plot thickens.

Currently I'm in Fruita CO. I pulled my 9000lb travel trailer up to Black Hawk CO (9500 feet) then back down to 70 pulling west over the range.

I was worried about the steep pull up 119 to Black Hawk. The van did awesome! Weird awesome. The ECM has a part in this whole van heat issue. Pulling at 35 - 40mph 2000RPM over drive off up 7-8% grades in 90 degree heat with the pyro at 1000 FWT sat around 195-205. EOT was 11 degrees higher. The fan was running full speed for the entire pull. I could have pulled to the moon. It was awesome.

Now here's the frustrating part. Flat or rolling roads, 65 mph, 2000 RPM, pyro at 800-900, overdrive on. FWT 215-220+. EOT plus 10 or so. Fan does not seem to be running all the time or with the same gusto? One would think 2000rpm is 2000rpm, more airflow, and lower EGTs temps should be lower.

Can the fan programing be changed?

Heck I would like to have a manual fan speed modulator on the dash. Possible?

I'm convinced when the fan is running full speed the 10000cfm is enough to cool our hot running vans in most situations.

Ideas?

Thoughts?

Jim
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:20 AM   #48
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

Have you tried just keeping the OD off?
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:36 AM   #49
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

Dave,

I wish I could keep the overdrive off when pulling. I've got 4.56 gears with 35" tires, with OD off and 5th gear eliminated I'm revving pretty high at highway speeds. I've been trying to drive around 1800 to 2200 RPM with pyro temps 800-900.

OD off would really push the rpm's up.

I found this on the powerstroke site.


I haven't tried it, but several references say it works:

To turn on the fan with a switch:
Add a switch to the dark blue wire in the fan connector at the top of the fan shroud. This connector is a five wire connector and the dark blue wire receives a GROUND connection from the PCM when it decides that the fan needs to be turned on. After turning on the switch to send GROUND to the dark blue wire, the viscous fan clutch heats up (it will take 20-50 seconds or so to fully heat up) and the fan will engage and run with a lot of sound!. After turning off the switch, the viscous fan clutch will still be hot, so it takes a minute or so for the fan to slow back down. Again, the dark blue wire is for GROUND only, not 12 volts! Also, the heater in the clutch draws about 1.25 amps or so. You can use a 16 gauge wire and a small toggle switch. Just make sure you do not cut the blue wire such that the PCM can't ground it when it wants to

Not sure if it would work?

Cutting wires always makes me nervous. But hey if I read it on the interweb it must be true!

Jim
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Old 09-08-2013, 11:39 AM   #50
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Re: Cooling the 6.0 with an Aluminess Bumper

Link

http://www.justanswer.com/ford/1grjp-cr ... f-fan.html

Thoughts?

Jim
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