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Old 05-26-2016, 07:48 AM   #51
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Under the brake booster in the engine bay is a "empty plug" cut and splice or maybe plug in.
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Old 05-27-2016, 10:03 AM   #52
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I did this yesterday. I should've taken pictures sorry. You can see the switch at the front bottom end of the master cylinder. You'll want to remove the top of the airbox where your air filter is (I have a 6.0 diesel). Unplug the harness from the switch then just unscrew the old one and screw the new one in. I do have a question though, my part came with a new wiring harness, do I need to use this or can I just leave the old one in place as I did? Seems like the job becomes more involved if the harness needs to be replaced.
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Old 05-28-2016, 03:58 AM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WhitH View Post
I do have a question though, my part came with a new wiring harness, do I need to use this or can I just leave the old one in place as I did?
The newer parts come with the replacement wiring harness because it was part of a recall. When that secondary switch was added the original ones leaked which may have affected the then-existing harness.

If your switch didn't leak or there's no signs of damage to the harness its probably okay to leave it in place. I'm not sure if the recall replacement found Ford dealers replacing it unless there were clear signs that was required.
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Old 05-28-2016, 08:43 AM   #54
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Thank you sir! I figure I'll just hang onto it and if the cruise continues to act up then replacing the harness will be the next step. I'll be taking it up and down I5 for a couple hundred miles tomorrow. I'll see what happens.
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:18 PM   #55
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Hi,

I think I may try replacing the clock spring myself - it doesn't look to bad. Shop quoted around ~675 :/ It looks like you have to disconnect the batteries though correct? In order to prevent the airbag from going off? I haven't dropped the engine batteries yet on my SMB. They are on the passenger side on the bottom I know. Is it pretty easy to drop them?

Thanks!

Chris
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Old 06-14-2016, 03:25 AM   #56
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Chris only the chassis battery(s) would need to be disconnected in order to safely replace the clock spring. If you do this keep in mind its only necessary to disconnect the NEGATIVE terminal at least 15 minutes before beginning. I myself disconnect both cables but that's just me.

The steering wheel puller should be large enough to span the "tabs" of the steering wheel hub used for removal---these are about 3.75" wide so the puller needs to span that distance plus accommodate the height needed for proper pulling angle.

I've done this myself and there should be many, many YouTube tutorials---from '97 through EOL on the E-Series as well as the F-Series are nearly identical so this procedure should be well documented.

Most of us who've already done this can also chime in---I'm more than glad to add my bits if needed.


HTH
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:10 AM   #57
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Thanks JWA, I was looking at the battery setup yesterday and it looks like the two engine batteries have a common negative connection on the chassis above the positive post, See pic (is that what you are referring to?) Looks like I can possibly just disconnect that common terminal from the chassis to disconnect the batteries. My engine batteries are underneath the vehicle like many others I'm sure. I've found a good video on YouTube that had boosted my confidence!

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Chris
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:58 AM   #58
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Good news on the video---maybe link us here too should anyone need/want that sort of tutorial?

Not sure about SMB battery set-ups as I don't own one---wouldn't want to give you bum advice about that. You simply need to disconnect the vehicle wiring negative terminal(s)----as I understand it the SMB's have separate battery systems.

Basically if you disconnect what you think are the starting battery(s) and things like wipers, PDL, PW etc etc including the starter itself you're safe to work on and around the air bag system.

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Old 06-15-2016, 07:19 AM   #59
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Thank you JWA.

Here is a good vid on the clockspring on ford superduty 1999 and up.

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Old 06-15-2016, 09:14 AM   #60
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Hmmm I wonder if the cabin battery has to be disconnected. I know it's wired to assist in starting the engine. Maybe I can do the tests you have suggested to be sure. Roll down Windows and try locks , etc. It would be tough but educational I suppose to drop the cabin battery and disconnect the terminals.
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