DIY oil and fuel leak abaitment project

[TomsBeast]

I found another couple leak causes, wile reassembling the pressure side of the fuel pump and the hard line;


#1) The last guy who changed out the mechanical lift pump, didn't pick off one of the crush washers, that are supposed to be replaced with new ones after every time the big banjo bolt is removed. One side had the crush washers accidentally doubled up. I've seen this in the past on other banjo bolt/crush washers fittings, they never seal right when doubled up.


#2) fuel fitting at the head, driver's side.Fuel had been dribbling down the rear driver's side of the head and block. Ford used (2) 45 degree fittings, a rubber seal, and a hard line. My guess is the rubber seal is leaking, and he 4 deg fittings are 1/8-npt pipe, and not very tight, likely weeping. I have a couple ideas on how to tighten those up.

[BroncoHauler]

Here's one that I just had on my 7.3L Excursion. Came back from a long weekend 2 weeks back, arrived at the house and had fuel dripping all over the place. I thought I had ruptured a fuel line, but turns out the fuel filter housing lid developed a crack, and it allowed pressurized diesel to spray all over my engine bay. Total mess, but a cheap fix except for all the shop rags to clean up my engine and the underside of my hood.




Herb

[TomsBeast]

I made more progress on this project over the last few weeks. Slow because of several other things I'm addressing at the same time.


If you are doing this yourself, there is a fitting that is known to leak.






It is comprised of (2) 1/8-NPT street 45deg fittings, and a rubber seal and tube with compression nut. Not only had the rubber seal been leaking , but the pipe threads were also leaking. I ran a greased tap into about a half turn into the head, and screwed the first fitting one full turn deeper. The same with fitting #2, where it threads into fitting #1

[JWA]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

I made more progress on this project over the last few weeks. Slow because of several other things I'm addressing at the same time.

If you are doing this yourself, there is a fitting that is known to leak.

Its good to not do a job like this and have the luxury of no deadlines to deal with---take it slow so it's done right.

I'm wondering if those fittings and tube be replaced with AN-style fittings and steel braided hose? Someone like Earl's Performance Plumbing or Parker would have something suitable for that location.

I myself love Loctite pipe sealant when its possible to use for NPT fittings. I like that you can clock fittings to suit an installation and still effect a good seal rather than cranking it down where its final location doesn't align with other lines etc.

Just my two bits mind ya..............

[TomsBeast]

Originally Posted by JWA

Its good to not do a job like this and have the luxury of no deadlines to deal with---take it slow so it's done right.

I have a deadline alright... but I let myself off the hook a couple months ago. Well, sort of

Originally Posted by JWA

I'm wondering if those fittings and tube be replaced with AN-style fittings and steel braided hose? Someone like Earl's Performance Plumbing or Parker would have something suitable for that location.

I myself love Loctite pipe sealant when its possible to use for NPT fittings. I like that you can clock fittings to suit an installation and still effect a good seal rather than cranking it down where its final location doesn't align with other lines etc.

Just my two bits mind ya..............

Ford/IH came up with that '2 45's' deal because of a real tight fit between the intake manifold and turbo housing.


Which number loctite do you use?

[TomsBeast]

The other thing I’ve come across while doing this job, that I’ll pass along, is my distain for worm style hose clamps on small rubber fittings. They don’t clamp in a circle, but more like a ‘D’ shape. Fine for low pressure stuff, but the 7.3 uses up to 70psi fuel pressure, so you really have to ‘tighten the shit out of them’ (it’s an industry term), to the point they cut into the hose to get then to seal, getting worse and leaking with heat and time.



Also the blue high temp diesel hose is the stuff you want to use, according to most of the stuff I read on the forums. It's special order and expensive, by in my view worth it.


Check out the inner shape of both clamps, and how the used hose shows bite marks:






enter the 'fuel injection clamp' to save the day. These are full circle and much, MUCH better!

[JWA]

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

Which number loctite do you use?

I've used PST beginning in the late 70's---currently you can find 6ml tubes at NAPA, AutoZone etc etc p/n 592. The "pst" simply means pipe sealant w/Teflon

Just for giggles and grins check out Earl's Performance Plumbing AN fittings and hose: https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ings_and_hose/ Their stuff is suited for high performance uses as in race cars---the selection of fittings makes close spaces a bit easier to work around.

Originally Posted by TomsBeast

The other thing I’ve come across while doing this job, that I’ll pass along, is my distain for worm style hose clamps on small rubber fittings. They don’t clamp in a circle, but more like a ‘D’ shape.

I agree----add in the quality of those clamps has been greatly decreased in recent years which only adds to the potential problems they can cause and their reliability is always suspect in my mind even when brand new.

Having a somewhat local Parker fittings store nearby makes it easier finding high quality clamps. They have a great selection of all types hose clamps and fittings.

The clamps you show are a step above the typical screw clamps found--the inner sleeve that allows for a more circular clamping action is what makes the difference. I've almost completely switched over to spring clamps or pinch clamps, both of which seem to work very, very well in nearly application I've used them.

I don't think I'd use the typical spring clamp on a fuel line for those I'd use the pinch clamp or if possible one of the AN fittings and hose if at all possible. Fuel pressures present their own issues over coolant or similar lines.

As we've probably all witnessed inferior clamps can cause a world of trouble and of course at the worst possible time.

[TomsBeast]

Originally Posted by JWA

Just for giggles and grins check out Earl's Performance Plumbing AN fittings and hose: https://www.holley.com/products/plum...ings_and_hose/ Their stuff is suited for high performance uses as in race cars---the selection of fittings makes close spaces a bit easier to work around.

Yeah, I use AN and stainless braided hose on all the race stuff I work on, Earl's is my favorite. It's great stuff, super reliable, easy to disconnect and reconnect in a hurry, looks like 'racey' but a little expensive. My race car probably has $1500 in AN parts alone, fuel, brakes, breather systems. The few -16 fittings on my breather really added up in a hurry.



What I've personally found though, is it's best t either go 'all in' or keep it stock. Adapting AN to a stock fuel pump for instance, to do it right, you'd need to cut off part of the Carter nipple, and find a special compression fitting. The next time you need a fuel pump, or if the new one doesn't work, no one will warranty the modified one, and you have to modify the next one.


I may wind up regretting it at the end of the day, but I made a decision early in the project to rebuild the stock Ford/IH fuel system, for about $400. Other truck guys choose to 'throw the baby out with the bathwater' and go with a dual filter, Bosch e-pump, Aeromotive regulator, Mark F. or similar fuel supply manifold and aftermarket system (that uses AN and SS braided line). I considered it, but I'm committed to the path I'm on, at this point.

[TomsBeast]

I took a break from putting the fuel system back in, while I worked on the intercooler upgrade, and all of the associated modification to make that happen. http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...3-a-23279.html



It's a good thing I did, because the having the fuel bowl and turbo out of the way, allowed me to have an easier access to the engine bay for fitting the various pieces of 3" plumbing.


Last night I finished reinstalling the rebuilt turbo w/nitrile o-rings, the spider w/new silicone boots and T-bolt clamps, exhaust up pipes and new hardware.


A few more things, and she'll be ready to fire up next weekend