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Old 06-05-2020, 04:16 AM   #111
JWA
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I'm a bit sad to see this thread being dragged into areas it was never intended to address. I'll say it once again if you want to upgrade pre-2008 E250's to the 2008 and later E250 brakes this thread works perfect mostly because I've done this as outlined. I don't know whether substitutions of wheels etc will work because I have no experience in that.

To Roccon99: If you're not able or willing to DIY this mod along with ball joints and other steering/suspension work you're somewhat forced into paying the going rate a for-hire shop will charge. Most won't allow customers to supply their own parts which which I understand. While the motive for that may seem to simply increase their profit it has an upside of them being responsible for parts they supply, at least up to the time or mileage limit they carry. You supply the parts that might become defective or fail and its on you to foot the bill to resolve that issue.

FWIW the shop quoting you $1700 for the work your outline isn't unfair. We're long, long past the days when parts were the most expensive part of a job---labor tends to be the bigger chunk today.

I'd not deal with RockAuto but that's me----the same parts they sell are available locally or online. With a bit of shopping around you'll find good prices from sellers with better and easier to deal with customer service. I like Advance Auto for the budget minded, NAPA and/or dealer for the higher quality. Amazon and/or eBay too if you have a specific brand or part number you're seeking.

I've mentioned several times the rotor/hub take off parts seem to have had a relatively short-lived availability but remember this thread was posted quite a while back. I might have just been dumb lucky as subsequent searches on eBay and of the seller I used show absolutely nothing similar to what I found.

Do keep in mind the OEM take offs I bought are still very usable even after 110K miles of driving, one set of new pads. Remember I did this upgrade in November of 2013.---that's a good service life for OEM parts. Looking at the cost-per-mile of the better stuff I am not the least bit unhappy with my decision to use the good stuff.

FWIW I believe I paid $165 for the two take off rotors shipping---today's cost would be about $225 if found locally.

So anyway there ya have it.
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Old 06-06-2020, 03:44 PM   #112
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Originally Posted by ejnave View Post
Thanks for the reply! My van is a 2007 On 35’s will the 2008 upgrade be adequate? Seem a lot cheaper than the dynatrack. I’m all for spending money for a superior product, but if the 08 Upgrade isn’t that far off I’d rather go that route. Thanks!
It's been a while since I've been on here but maybe some of this will help.

When you do the Big Brake upgrade to the Dynatrac Front Axle you are getting 14.53 Diameter front rotors from an F450-F550 NOT the 13.5 rotors on the 08+
E-Series a Substancial difference IMO. Up 1.5" from stock pre 08 13" rotors

The Rotors are redrilled by Dynatrac to accommodate 8 x 6.5 bolt pattern as Opposed to the 8 X 170 mm for the F Series.

In order for the 14.53" rotors you need to run 17 inch wheels. To mount the Rotors and Larger Calipers the steering Knuckles and Hubs need to be changed. (most of the expense)

The calipers are from 08+ E-350 E-450

It is my understanding that this is the same brake system installed on the current Sportsmobile 4x4 systems.

I do not know if you can mount the 14.53 rotors to 2WD front spindles.

Brake lines were custom from Crown.

The calipers and Rotors are only a portion of the necessary Conversion.

I hope this answers some questions
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Old 06-06-2020, 03:47 PM   #113
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Additionally, If you have 2WD and want to find the +08 spindles check with SMB as they have to remove them to make Classics in 4X4. Might be reasonable priced.
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Old 06-20-2020, 01:29 PM   #114
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What year f450-550?

Does it matter what year F-450-550 ? I'm assuming 08'+? Will I also need to re drill these rotors for correct lug pattern? Does it need to be 4x4 F450-550?
Thanks sorry for the confusion.
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Old 06-20-2020, 02:20 PM   #115
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Absolutely correct so why you're seeking non-standard dimensions eludes me---he who initiated and has performed this upgrade/modification.

The 16" steel wheels that were OEM to the E-Series fit, most likely the Alcoa's as well IF they were spec'd for the 2008 and later year E-Series up through the E350 chassis; E450 wheels might fit but I can't be sure.

What year and type is this drop off donor you're working with? As for this "generation" craziness better to stick with specific years and chassis GVW.

For me since you're deviating from what I've already posted I'll have to leave you to your own discoveries or trial & error work---I won't comment or speculate on something I've not done myself.

Best of luck with this!

Correct ... in part. What no one seemed to be able to Grasp, was that I needed reference of Pre-‘08 steelies to ‘08+. Was an excruciatingly Simple Request that someone with a wheel off, measure the Net ID of the ‘08+ wheel, for me to (compare) with my pre-‘08. It is Not a measurement that can be found googling. I took it that JWA was using ‘08+, “which barely clear”. But it apparently was a bigger Ask, than I was willing to wait out.

Alcoas had Zero relevance whatsoever ... fwiw.
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Old 06-20-2020, 02:37 PM   #116
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Pertaining to the other issue, of taking a well-intention Post down an “alley” (my word) that it was never intended ... I’m in Agreement with the OP (JWA).

Start your own Brake Upgrade Thread ....

FWIW, I think (needing) to re-drill Rotors to ‘make them work’ is a Huge Red Flag, telling you that it (shouldn’t) be done. With a rotating mass, especially at the four corners of a vehicle, you are nearly guaranteed to introduce vibrations, unless said newly re-drilled rotor is Carefully balanced by a professional.

To many, who aren’t particularly in tune with subtle nuances of their vehicle’s operating characteristics, it may go unnoticed ... and well, OK. I’m particularly attuned to operating differences, because I Have to be as an HPDE Instructor. Plus, I’m obsessive about Details. More important, just because something (mod-wise) Can be done, doesn’t mean it Should be done.
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Old 06-20-2020, 02:40 PM   #117
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Does it matter what year F-450-550 ? I'm assuming 08'+? Will I also need to re drill these rotors for correct lug pattern? Does it need to be 4x4 F450-550?
Thanks sorry for the confusion.
Yep they have to be drilled out. Or, you could get these from Sportsmobile or directly from dynatrac. https://www.sportsmobilestore.com/dy...-front-rotors/
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Old 06-20-2020, 04:03 PM   #118
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I think you are trying to combine brake upgrades for a 2WD to a Dynatrac 4WD axle. I don't think this will work. Prove Me Wrong.
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Old 06-20-2020, 08:44 PM   #119
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Originally Posted by oldbonesclimber View Post
I think you are trying to combine brake upgrades for a 2WD to a Dynatrac 4WD axle. I don't think this will work. Prove Me Wrong.
100% Correct----there's nothing I've posted even remotely suggesting this pre-2008 brake upgrade applied in any way shape, fashion or form to a Dyna-Trac 4WD front axle.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1DogRescuer View Post
Pertaining to the other issue, of taking a well-intention Post down an “alley” (my word) that it was never intended ... I’m in Agreement with the OP (JWA).

Start your own Brake Upgrade Thread ....

FWIW, I think (needing) to re-drill Rotors to ‘make them work’ is a Huge Red Flag, telling you that it (shouldn’t) be done. With a rotating mass, especially at the four corners of a vehicle, you are nearly guaranteed to introduce vibrations, unless said newly re-drilled rotor is Carefully balanced by a professional.

To many, who aren’t particularly in tune with subtle nuances of their vehicle’s operating characteristics, it may go unnoticed ... and well, OK. I’m particularly attuned to operating differences, because I Have to be as an HPDE Instructor. Plus, I’m obsessive about Details. More important, just because something (mod-wise) Can be done, doesn’t mean it Should be done.
Ya know typically I don't mind that threads evolve as they do, its part of the fun here I believe. BUT when something of a technical nature, that's fairly specific and is so stated, gets dragged of-course it looses its original intent of sharing an experience from a DIY whose done something. Those times we seem to spend as much time warning against something as it took creating the original post.

But again 1DogRescuer 100% correct! upon reading my parts used list I see the flaw in my original detail post were I don't mention frequently or clearly enough my upgrade was on a stock 2003 2WD E250EB. I also see I didn't clearly enough state or make clear my process re-used the existing 16" steel wheels which were in-line to receive a new set of Michelin LTX Defender tires in 245/75-R16, E-rated. IF that over sight or omission has led this thread astray I blame myself.

FWIW I'll be switched even thinking of drilling off-the-shelf brake rotors with anything other than a CNC machine designed for such operations. I'm pretty much against the drilled pad face rotor gimmick so drilling new holes along side existing stud holes seems to be begging for a severe weakening of the part.

However I'm still at a loss to understand how the original post has been misunderstood to think it would work for a 4WD front axle.

Okay---rant/hissyfit over---carry on all!
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Old 06-20-2020, 10:35 PM   #120
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JWA I don't think you ever insinuated that it would work on anything other than a 2WD. Some posters seem to assume it will crossover to a 4WD. I truly wish it was that simple and less expensive. Again, if someone knows how to attach the F550 rotors and E450 calipers to a Dynatrac Prorock 60 pre 2008 without changing the steering knuckles and hubs please let me know. It would save a lot of expense. I did't spend $3000+ because I could have done it cheeper.
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