Engine Mods for the V10 Ford what have you done

[carringb]

Originally Posted by MrWicked

we are looking for either or... either trailer the size i need the GVWR is more than what the van is rated... so not sure what to do...

My advice.... Get the trailer you want, then modify the van to make it work. If you have a semi-float, you may have to upgrade to a full float, or even do a dually conversion of the hitch weight causes you do go over axle ratings. Remember, published tow ratings don't matter to DOT, only axle and tire ratings.

An RB van will help you stay under your rear axle and tire ratings, but a good hitch can help, or you can do the axle modifications. But you are much more likely to find a full-float in an EB wagon. As far as diesel vs gas.... Ford offered the V10 with higher ratings with lower axle ratios, but the diesel is easier to squeeze more power out of because it has a turbo. However, once you start boosting the diesel, cooling can be an issue, especially EGTs on the 7.3L.

My Weekend warrior was 41' long (custom build, with slide and 6" lift) and topped 18,000 pounds loaded. Hitch weight was 3200 pounds if the tanks were all full and there was no vehicle in the garage. I had to fabricate my own receiver (P.E. approved the design and fab). It was already a dually at that point because even my old 30' trailer would put me over the ratings of my rear tires.

I also switched to 4.56 gears because even with 4.30 gears I wanted just a little more torque (and the 4.30 gears are not as strong because they only come in a D60 size but the 4.56 gears allowed me to up to the D70 carrier.

[MrWicked]

Carringb do you have a throttle body spacer on your van???

i have a few buddies that have them on the trucks and like them..

[MrWicked]

here is one trailer we are wanting to go look at ...

[carringb]

Originally Posted by MrWicked

Carringb do you have a throttle body spacer on your van???

i have a few buddies that have them on the trucks and like them..

Save your money. They won't do a thing on multi-port fuel injection. They only help on carbs or throttle-body injection. I think Ford went multi-port in '89.

[carringb]

Originally Posted by MrWicked

here is one trailer we are wanting to go look at ...

That looks great! I ran across its twin-lookalike a little while back, but that one was in much worse condition.

I'm currently browsing them also. Not sure which route I'll take.... Car hauler with quarter or Toy Hauler again. The Toy Hauler I like is going up for sale soon, however it would be about 44' total length which means it won't fit in my driveway (39' max) so I need to find a decent parking solution.

[carringb]

BTW - Beware of the V-noses. Not all are compatible with Weight Distribution. I can't tell from that pic.

[MrWicked]

if you travel out of OR.. in cali total lenght is 65ft

[MrWicked]

the biggest toy hauler i have seen in cali bumper pull total lentgh is 37 ft 39 to 44 thats crazy

[carringb]

Originally Posted by MrWicked

if you travel out of OR.. in cali total lenght is 65ft

It would put me right at the limit. I figure that's probably a foot or two of wiggle room in there.

My Weekend Warrior was 41' (custom built). I did get busted at the the tunnel in Zion. The Ranger had me hold the dumb end of the tape measure, and as she walked to the back of the trailer, I did too so I was nearly at the back of the van. Still over! I got permanently banned from the park for the one, so I had to change my license plates.

The "new" trailer, if I go that route, is actually a 38' Desert Fox 5th wheel, which I will convert to a pull behind. Desert Fox / Arctic Fox is really the only RV trailer built tough enough to my uses, but their pull behinds max out at 29' (which is actually about 35' overall). My 2nd choice would be Attitude, which are much nicer inside, but I'm not sure are quite as durable or as well insulated. The main problem I found with car haulers is the lack of ground clearance and rubber torsion axles. Torsion axles don't equalize which makes them a poor choice off-pavement. Instead of "walking" over obstacle, each axle has to climb over and that literally can shake the trailer apart (I've damaged two car haulers already).

[Chance]

Originally Posted by carringb

......cut........

Going over GCWR isn't the end of the world, but it will be working harder and therefore you'll use more fuel than if you stayed within specs, assuming everything is stock. Going from 3.73 gears to 4.56 gears gained me about 1.5 MPG towing, but I also lost about the same solo.

This is an excellent example of how the ratios of the 6R transmission could solve many needs.

If someone wants 4.56 so they can tow in overdrive (which effectively makes it around 3.2 with a 4-speed automatic), then why not just leave the 3.73 and tow in drive? For someone who tows all the time fuel economy while towing becomes the main decision driver, but for most looking to tow heavy loads even if occasionally another problem would be that first gear wouldn't be low enough to launch on steep uphill.

With a 6R the much lower first gear does as much good as a 4.56, while the smaller gear steps at the high end allows either towing or cruising at near optimum efficiency.