Front Wheel Bearings - Page 3

Ford_6L_E350 · 06-19-2010, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stikine

Just curious, looks like there is no requirement for repacking or inspection of the rear wheel bearings?

Rear wheel bearings are lubricated by the differential fluid. There are no joints in the way to allow for steering the wheels.

Mike

etbadger · 06-23-2010, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tskyhi

Erik,

Awesome write up and pics. I am currently replacing front bearings, ball joints, tie rods, pads, and rotors.

I don't know why, but I am having a heck of a time coming up with a source for the grease seal(#48816) and have spent far too much time on the net trying to do so. Manny, Moe, and Jack weren't much help.

I've talked to SMB and Dynatrac and was told to cross reference early Chevy K30's, but that's still a struggle. I know this should be a stupidly easy part to find. I'm starting to think I've entered the twilight zone.

Please help.....where did you source your seals, what part#, and how much? This should be a $7-10 part right?

Thanks,

Tim

I have a stack of spares I picked up sitting out in the van trunk, I'll dig them out and update with some part numbers. The easy way to spec them at an auto shop is "Hub inner grease seals for front axle on a Ford F350 1997 4x4" and that should get them right. I got the first couple at Napa since I was time constrained when I decided to do the work, but their price was so high I ordered my spares online at rockauto.com for about 1/2 price.

If you regrease regularly and keep water out of your hub (regrease soon after water crossings) the bearings should last forever, but I do carry a spare set with inner races just in-case something goes out while we are on the road. Again the price online was far far better.

-e

John and Dana · 09-08-2010, 01:19 PM

Eric,

Thanks for the fantastic write up on you website. I will be re-packing my wheel bearings for the first time this week.

Cheers,
John

John and Dana · 09-14-2010, 01:40 PM

Yesterday I finished repacking the front wheel bearings. Here are a couple of things I learned.

First the part number for the seals in the Sportsmobile manual is worthless. None of the auto parts stores or bearing houses recognized it. The numbers you need are a National Seal (NS475960) or Chicago Rawhide (CR27467).

The second is allen screws that secure the hub require a 9/64 allen wrench. This is not a common size so don't count on having it.

Cheers
John

Roonie · 09-14-2010, 03:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by John & Dana

Yesterday I finished repacking the front wheel bearings. Here are a couple of things I learned.

First the part number for the seals in the Sportsmobile manual is worthless. None of the auto parts stores or bearing houses recognized it. The numbers you need are a National Seal (NS475960) or Chicago Rawhide (CR27467).

The second is allen screws that secure the hub require a 9/64 allen wrench. This is not a common size so don't count on having it.

Cheers
John

Thank you for posting this. I went to a local auto chain armed with the sportsmobile part numbers and they just stared back at me with blank faces like I was talking a different language...... Will try again armed with this info. What grease did you use? Any other helpful hints or part numbers needed? I am assuming all you replaced were the seals?

etbadger · 09-14-2010, 05:44 PM

I just asked for Dana 60 front hub grease seals for a '97 F350 4x4. It keeps the confusion down, and seems easier for them to look-up accurately.

-e

**daveb** · 09-15-2010, 11:37 AM

Except the 97 F-350 4x4 outer seal ofter shows up as a NS 475960 and the improved seal shows as a NS 415960 which has a stronger housing. Looks like they are dropping the 475960

John and Dana · 09-16-2010, 11:10 AM

The only other thing that is tricky is finding out whether you need the socket with 6 tabs or 4 for getting the spindle nut loose. I even called Dynatrac and they couldn't tell me which one I needed. From what they told me since mine is '08 there was 99% chance I have a six tab nut, but they couldn't tell me for certain. So what do they do, throw a 4 tab nut in every once and a while to keep people guessing. I thought this was a little odd!

I found the price of the socket varies dramatically. Carquest wanted $34 but I found one at Shucks/O'Reilly for $9.99. Ok, it was made in China, and it made it though the first bearing repack. Hopefully it doesn't break the next time I try to use it.

I used Mobile 1 synthetic grease. It was $7.00 for a can and I used the whole can. Next time I will buy 2 so I have a little extra.

Cheers,
John

TwinStick · 09-23-2010, 09:30 AM

For those with non-serviceable "unit bearings" in the front, check this out. I have not done it yet, but plan to some day. Just trying to help out.

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthr ... ost3820117

**BroncoHauler** · 10-12-2010, 12:55 PM

My front wheel bearing service is overdue, so I gave a quick call to Bob's Brake & Alignment.

Asked them for a rough estimate of the cost to perform the service (inner and outer bearings)
$225 (your mileage may vary based on make and model).

On an unrelated note, also asked them for a rough estimate on coolant flush and fill
$120.

Hubert said these could be knocked out in about half a day total.

Herb