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Old 11-18-2020, 11:30 AM   #11
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To be clear, you're talking about the mopar 6.7 fan clutch? It appears they kept that during the swap.

And yes, I am aware I'll lose control over the fan clutch (as well as maybe a tiny bit of mpg, possibly a slightly longer warm up period). The cost to go mechanical vs replace with new electric are pretty close so I'm not fully set on the mechanical clutch, but after having the wires ripped apart once I'm not real keen on keeping the electric one. Granted the wires weren't very secure so it's probably more of an installation error - but the thought is still there.

I do appreciate all the responses btw, so thank you.
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Old 11-18-2020, 12:08 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by b. rock View Post
To be clear, you're talking about the mopar 6.7 fan clutch? It appears they kept that during the swap.
I was thinking of the 6.0 fan clutch, but it does look like Cummins 6.7L clutch works the same way.
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Old 11-18-2020, 03:49 PM   #13
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@daveb - did the all aluminum one help?

I had done several things to curb high running temps. The radiator probably didn't do much. As stated, they are a better built radiator but aluminum tanks just didn't seem to make a noticeable temp difference. I also added hood vents and like the radiator, it was hard to see much of a difference. What did made a huge difference was an engine tune. That lowered my coolant & oil temps by about 10 degrees. And at the start of the warmer season this year, I had been driving for a while without my radiator pancake fan running/working. It's for the Starcool. I have found that my temps are not nearly as constant without the radiator pancake fan running (plus the A/C works better). I can't say how much it lowers the coolant temps but they stay at a more even rate especially at slow speeds.
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