Gas vs Diesel Radiators?

b. rock · 11-17-2020, 04:28 PM

I have an '06 E-350. Looking at radiator part no's, it lists 9C2Z-8005-F for gas and 6C2Z-8005-B for diesel. Anyone know how to look up row/coil count to see what the difference is? Or maybe even a way to look up dimensions? Or could it just be that the connections are different?

I have a van that is currently diesel, but used to be gas (6.8), so I'm trying to sort out the cooling system and make sure it's 100% good to go.

Thanks

carringb · 11-17-2020, 05:17 PM

If it has the 6.0 intercooler (I hope its intercooled!!!), it'll need the diesel radiator. The V10 radiator was the same as the 7.3L radiator, and was too big for the intercooler.

unreng · 11-18-2020, 08:58 AM

Rockauto has pictures and sometimes has dimensions!
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,radiator,2172

Performance radiator for dimensions, etc.:
https://shop.performanceradiator.com...55_16064_16066

Looking at photo's for the radiators, the hoses are in the opposite locations for gas vs. diesel.
diesel = passenger top + drivers bottom + transmission cooler fittings facing forward

--------------------------------------------------------------------
gas = drivers top + passenger bottom + transmission cooler fittings facing rearward.

**daveb** · 11-18-2020, 09:05 AM

I have a performance all aluminum radiator in my 6.0 so I know they make (made?) them. Give em a call.

b. rock · 11-18-2020, 09:23 AM

Roger, and thanks folks!

Yes, it is intercooled (factory 6.0 intercooler I am told, although haven't confirmed exact part #) - and the current radiator is driver's top connection. Don't see a part # stamped on it but I'll keep looking.

I also need to get a fan shroud in there so this helps that endeavor as well.

@daveb - did the all aluminum one help?

carringb · 11-18-2020, 09:36 AM

The Aluminum radiators aren't necessarily for better cooling, more for reliability. The plastic tanks are only held on by crimps, and vibration or a sticking pressure-cap can cause them let loose at the crimps. Or in my case, the entire upper tank ruptured like microwaved hot-dog. If you have the plastic one now, I would not consider it urgent to swap out. But, it's a simple upgrade the next time the front-end is taken apart.

I would try to verify its OEM, and if it's not, try to figure out who it's from. Some of the cheaper knock-offs don't have a stacked-plate heat exchanger for the transmission, and may use either a looped hard-line, or a tank-in-tank heat-exchanger. These probably won't cool the transmission sufficiently unless a Tru-Max is also installed.

b. rock · 11-18-2020, 09:42 AM

Yeah, I gave it a quick scan when I was doing a coolant flush but didn't see anything. I'll do a deeper dive this weekend, need to get a better assessment of what I need to do over the winter anyway. I'd say the swap is about 80% done, it's on me to get it the last 20%.

And there's a separate aftermarket trans cooler in front of the intercooler. Not huge, but at least better than a looped hard line. There's an a-pillar trans temp gauge but it's currently inop (again, see above about it being 80% done).

carringb · 11-18-2020, 09:50 AM

They did come with a plate-and-fin cooler stock, although arguably undersized especially from crawling. For highway use, it's fine, but I would recommend doing the Tru-Cool max upgrade before doing any long trails.

b. rock · 11-18-2020, 09:55 AM

Good to know. I did have an overheat scare/incident when the fan clutch wiring got munched going up a pass in 4 low. Turns out it wasn't very well secured so the rough terrain let the wiring and fan get into contact, and the wiring lost. Fortunately the head gasket is still fine (likely due to the ARP studs), but it is forcing my hand on evaluating the entire cooling system before diving into the MG radius arm conversion.

Probably shouldn't have tried to drive up to 13k' on the first outing, but hey - I have it to use it, not to just sit in the garage.

Edit: that's also the reason I'm looking at a mechanical fan clutch instead, but that's a separate topic.

carringb · 11-18-2020, 10:21 AM

The stock fan clutch is still mechanical. It uses thermostatic valve just like a standard clutch, and the electric part is simply a heating element that warms the oil sooner than it otherwise would. It does seem to have a relatively short life, but it’s not the electric part that fails.

If you revert to traditional fan clutch, you might gain a longer fan-clutch life, but you lose the ability for the PCM to control it.