Help with a newly purchased 2005 6.0 PSD

[tbonebrown]

That could be the issue. Any of you guys know a good shop in the Denver area? I live in Evergreen so just up the mountain from the big shitty!

[Twoxentrix]

Might start with this map - outlines Shops recommended by Members here:
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...8106744375&z=5

[PatO]

1. Some people have put vents in their hood
2. I don't think BPD offers the E-series oil cooler anymore. Regardless it's not plug and play with the Amsoil Bypass filter which I assume you would have.

Pat

[FunHogUtah]

My two cents to add on this is that my oil runs cooler after I upgraded to the remote oil cooler. I have a 2005 E350 4x4 RB50 with a 6.0 that I've owned for 15 years. No tunes. I use a Scan Gauge to monitor things. I live in Utah so have similar temps and hills to pull. My experience with the stock setup was similar to yours. Usually my spread was under the 10 degree mark but occasionally would spike higher after a big pull and I would see a 15+ degree spread. I could also see brief periods of oil temp over 240F in those highest load situations. I did ask Ford service if 240F was a concern and they said no. They said oil needs longer periods of over 240+F and higher to start breaking the oil down.

With the remote oil cooler, I've found the oil runs much cooler. In a steady state summer situation at rolling speeds, the oil and coolant temps run pretty close to the same. AT 90-95F on a flat highway doing 70-75MPH and the AC on, the two temps run about 210-212F. Pulling a hill will cause that to climb (and the fan to go into super jet engine mode) but I've not seen anything over 230F now. Other things to note about having a remote oil cooler is that the oil temp lags the coolant temp. So pulling up a hill as the temps are increasing, the oil is behind the coolant. On the downside of the hill as the temps are dropping, the oil is hotter than the coolant. after being at steady state for a bit, the two temps catch up to each other. Also, if you are in bumper to bumper traffic, you may see the oil run hotter than the coolant for a prolonged period (but still not very hot) because there is not much air flow going through the oil cooler. My last thing to say on this is regarding the AC. I find the AC has a big impact on the engine load while pulling a hill. If you click the AC off, that will help keep your temps down. I do this in the really big mountain pass situations. Hope this helps!

[tbonebrown]

Thank you all for the reples and sharing your data. I am going to bring it to a shop and do a coolante flush. I'll see if I need the supplemental oil cooler once I drive it more. I took it up to the top of Georgia Pass this weekend and camped a couple of nights. No issues with temps so I will see how things go and address anything the issue on hot days if I see the issue again.

I also did notice that the jet fan stopped working after the engine went over 225 or so. I am having the shop look into that as I feel that may be the issue. Do you guys know if the fan has two stages or just one? It ramps up starting around 215 but I defenitely didn't hear it spinning up after 225 or higher.

Cheers!

[daveb]

I agree with FunHog. Your temps are not that far out to worry if you are only seeing this in hot weather, when pulling a grade. 12 degrees isn't that bad and for some reason I thought you posted a higher spread. In really hot weather with a stock tune I have seen similar temps and they do increase the delta one way or the other depending on your uphill/downhill driving. In 110 temps I saw higher temps than yours.

[Glenn P.]

I have the same setup, 2005 6.0 PSD. I run the Atlas 40 tune on the FICM, that is all. Much like you, long climbs on twisty mountain roads get the temps up to the ranges you describe, and TFT up there as well. I did add a Mag-Hytec transmission pan on mine for improved cooling and additional capacity as I occasionally pull a rather heavily loaded dual axle utility trailer out to the desert with about 6,000 lbs of weight. I think the highest I ever saw my TFT reach was about 240 and it cooled very quickly once I crested the pass along with my oil and coolant temps.

One thing you might want to add, as I do not recall seeing it on your list, is a coolant filter. I had drained my radiator once to service the water pump and I was surprised at the amount of black sand in the bottom of the bucket! Since then, both my 6.0 and 7.3 PSD rigs have coolant filters installed. Lots of info here on the forum for this.

I also run synthetic engine oil. It can take the heat much better than conventional. My other toy vehicle is a 1965 Chevy Corvair. That air cooled engine always runs hot driving 75MPH down the flat hwy and a hill is worse! EOT on that can reach 230 sustained here in SoCal on the flat after 30 min and higher on a hill so synthetic oil is my friend as it's breakdown point shifts to nicely above my normal operating temps. Besides, I'd much rather not take an oil shower replacing my oil filter on the van so often and the extended oil change interval is a welcome thing.

[vandiesel]

Originally Posted by Twoxentrix

Several Threads here on this topic, with a lot of good info. I had similar issues that developed going uphill or going slow, these were mostly tied to the weight of the Van (2006 Sportsmobile with the 6.0 // 11,800lbs & fully bulletproofed), and have been able to 'control' my temps doing the following:
**Mishimoto aluminum radiator
**Mishimoto Low Temp thermostat
**5-Star Tune (have a 40hp, 50hp, and 65hp - and now only use the 40hp) >>> Each Tune also engages the fan earlier, and this alone really helps on the long grades as well as with the slow uphill slalom roads.
Since I knew the fan would be running more, I replaced the belt tensioner, and the entire fan unit - already had a 2yr old BPD water pump.

I've been on the fence with the trans cooler - deciding if I want a larger cooler sitting in front of the radiator, or a remote fan operated unit located under the chassis somewhere (But will have one done sometime in late August). Currently the good news is when the engine fan activates it also pulls down the trans temp.
These are my Trans Cooler considerations:
ATS TRANS COOLER (WITH FAN)
https://www.atsdiesel.com/ats-auxili...3-8-inch-lines

DieselSite Transmission Cooler - 1999-2007 Ford Powerstroke 7.3L & 6.0L
https://www.thoroughbreddiesel.com/c...yABEgJcg_D_BwE

MISHIMOTO TRANS COOLER 37 ROW
https://www.mishimoto.com/ford-power...ler-03-07.html

TRUE COOL 40,000
https://www.oregonperformancetransmi...LNG-47391.html

My temps currently going up any sort of long steep grades don't really exceed these (because the fan kicks on sooner):
OET = 225 (before I'd reach 235)
ECT = 220 (before I'd reach 230)
Trans = 210 (Before I'd reach 215-220)

I have the same changes BUT no fan clutch right now. I just did PDX to Laramie WY twice and never got over 220 and 225oil temps. Tranny stays at 176 or below with true cool. The van is in the q for new temp switch, blue wire mod, and fan clutch. I have the BPD oil cooler below my aluminess bumper.

[vandiesel]

I think moving the tranny cooler below the van on a remote fan would help keep things cooler still. The tranny dumps its heat into the radiator since it is first in line. Just another thought.

[MJS3]

BadgerTrek: Sportsmobile base Ford E350

I did a similar retro to this and works great for our uses.