Motor Thermostat question

[winmag4582001]

Originally Posted by carringb

You have a 5.4L Triton V10 with the 4R75E transmission with a 20-row cooler (same as the V10) and it holds 13.2 quarts of fluid and is rated for "lifetime" service.

The transmissions do not run hot, and IMO you do not need a larger cooler unless you are exceeding the original specifications somehow, which would include larger tires than 245s, exceeding the GCWR (12k or 13k depending on rear axle ratio), or crawling in low-range. Or if you add anything up front which would reduce airflow. In my case my Buckstop and offroad lights did block air and made temps higher, so I added the 40k cooler as a result.

THANK YOU! That's what I was looking for.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by boywonder

Look at the mfr data plate on the driver's door jamb for trans code...and post that here and/or google it.

Originally Posted by winmag4582001

I'm fat and slow, unfortunately those are my good qualities.

so....what's the door jamb label have as a transmission code?

[winmag4582001]

So I got the ScanGuage II installed and the TFT set, I think....
Today I dragged a 2500lb trailer 35 miles at 80mph. It was 55 degrees out this morning and the tranny ran around 156 degrees. Coming home empty the tranny only got up to 142 degrees. Ill monitor it for a while. As it stands, the factory cooler is working fine at lower ambient temperatures. IMO

[86Scotty]

Originally Posted by winmag4582001

Got a ScanGauge II today.
Now I have to figure out how to add water temp and tranny temp to it.

Now I just need to add the trans temp feature and the motor temp....
I'm fat and slow, unfortunately those are my good qualities.

As you've probably figured out by now water temp is a default on the ScangaugeII, and though it is a little convoluted to get transmission fluid temp loaded using the X-gauge functions it's really nice once you do and still much easier than adding an aftermarket trans temp gauge.

Just to add to your research I had a pretty heavily loaded 5.4 EB van and saw trans temps (with the SGII) of up to 225 or so out west on big mountains with summer temps, including Death Valley. I got worried after I broke about 220 and asked some questions here. Ramsey and some other desert racers told me not to worry unless I was over 275 or so for any length of time. That said, the 'lifetime fluid' lie is just that. Any heavy rig, meaning any van, I'm going to change the fluid in every couple years. Cheap insurance.

[MadScience]

Originally Posted by carringb

I do not recommend a lower temp T-stat in Triton motor. They are supposed to run a little warm for efficiency. I've been loaded to nearly 24,000 pounds and pulled the westbound grade out of death valley (12-14%) on a 107 degree day, and my coolant temp never went over 222F, even though I have the Banks PowerPack and a tuner. I only had to pull over because by rear diff was overheating.

I've been there as well, towing a trailer with what was basically a sail on it into a headwind on a hot day. The engine seems perfectly happy in this situation. I don't remember the numbers, but a scangauge will give cylinder head temps and they seemed reasonable.

What I don't know is how you keep the transmission from sitting at 220 degrees as well when the coolant is there? I've considered putting a valved bypass on the oil to water cooler for that situation.

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by MadScience

What I don't know is how you keep the transmission from sitting at 220 degrees as well when the coolant is there? I've considered putting a valved bypass on the oil to water cooler for that situation.

Brilliant question......220 degrees-ish must be well within spec for trans temp.....

If you get the trans fluid temp cooler than the coolant......then the coolant will heat it up.

[MadScience]

Originally Posted by boywonder

220 degrees-ish must be well within spec for trans temp.....

I don't know if it is, I'm sure it's not good for it. It was one of the last things I did with my (already compromised) previous 4r100. I do know that the pan seal will puke fluid at around 225, so I'm super sure that that is not within spec. -- I'm going to go to some effort to never put my new transmission into that range, even if I do have to re-plumb something while on the road.

[VOODOO7.3]

MadScience, Generally the rule of thumb is to keep transmission fluid routed normally through the radiator if your driving is in a moderate or cold climate. In only hot places like Arizona or the desert, you might want to bypass the radiator. Excessive heat surely ruins transmissions, but every automatic transmission also has to reach a certain temp for optimal efficiency, like @ 175-180* for the 4R100. The best proven way to efficiently cool is to have one fairly large cooler like the 26 row cooler Ford used on the 6.0 diesel vans. They bolt right in and are proven to work. There was a 31 row cooler also available with the 6.0 but they don't perform any better than the 26 row. The 6.0 cooler has 1/2" hose fittings. Yours has 3/8" hoses, therefore you need to use adapters and clamps to plumb it in. Then you will be wondering how much your ATF is dropping your coolant temps!

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by VOODOO7.3

MadScience, Generally the rule of thumb is to keep transmission fluid routed normally through the radiator if your driving is in a moderate or cold climate. In only hot places like Arizona or the desert, you might want to bypass the radiator. Excessive heat surely ruins transmissions, but every automatic transmission also has to reach a certain temp for optimal efficiency, like @ 175-180* for the 4R100. The best proven way to efficiently cool is to have one fairly large cooler like the 26 row cooler Ford used on the 6.0 diesel vans. They bolt right in and are proven to work. There was a 31 row cooler also available with the 6.0 but they don't perform any better than the 26 row. The 6.0 cooler has 1/2" hose fittings. Yours has 3/8" hoses, therefore you need to use adapters and clamps to plumb it in. Then you will be wondering how much your ATF is dropping your coolant temps!

Voodoo: Do you happen to have part numbers for the above-mentioned 6.0L coolers?

Member Nick and I looked at his 2006 6.0L cooler and it looked quite similar to the 11 row on my 5.4L....maybe it had 13 rows.....are we missing something?

The largest OEM bolt-in one that I found was a HD tow package version..I forget how many rows that has...nowhere near 26 IIRC. The F series coolers come way larger........

One other thing to note...a liquid to liquid heat exchanger is going to transfer a lot more heat than a liquid to gas (air) heat exchanger......I imagine that's why the trans fluid is pumped through the coolant radiator. I understand that it's potentially a problem if the coolant gets really hot but that's why I'm assuming that trans fluid temps at the extremes of engine coolant temps must be within mfr specs......

[carringb]

Stock cooler routing is 'In-Tank'-->'aux coolerer', so the aux cooler up front will cool the fluid more than the coolant does. Also, keep in mind that the coolant in the bottom tank has already been cooled, so it will not be the same 220F that is present at the inlet.