My rear diff is toast & more! UPDATE - Page 3

Zeta · 05-14-2012, 04:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGVANS

But back to your van, it may not need a complete rear end at this time. The tech needs to pull the cover and see what failed, it may just need a part.

If it's just the carrier--sounds like it'll need an R&P no matter what --maybe it's time for an air locker? If so, it's a good way to make limoncello...

Z

Jeffrey · 05-14-2012, 08:54 PM

LATEST:

I'm under warranty!!!! Yippie! It must be a 6 year warranty and I've had it for 5 years and 9 months. Phew! I'm taking it to the dealer tomorrow for service. No upgrade in my immediate future but I can't turn down this free repair.

**daveb** · 05-14-2012, 11:32 PM

Make sure they put the limited slip additive in there if you have a LSD. I had Ford forget to add it and SMB didn't put enough in once.

Jeffrey · 05-22-2012, 11:26 AM

The saga continues......

Yes the diff is gone. With the warranty still in effect, I brought it to my local FORD dealer. They discovered that one of the bolts on the ring gear inside the housing had fallen out and that caused the unit to assplode. So I said 'While it's in, please adjust the parking brake and take a look at that little oil drip, too'. Well, now the diff became the small job because they have to pull the engine to fix the bed plate leak. NOT FUN, but it is also under warranty. They need to remove my grill, Road Armor bumper w/ winch, and all wiring for three sets of aux lights. And the hoses that go to my flatplate. And a ton of other stuff. Somehow the emotional part of me feels violated. But the job may go well and I could be set for a good long time. Either way, I still feel terrible.

witoke · 05-22-2012, 05:55 PM

There are alternatives. My local Jeep shop recommended this place to me.
<http://www.currieenterprises.com/>

They'll build it any way you want and are, well, let's just say a bit less expensive than some of the others.

Jeffrey · 05-22-2012, 09:21 PM

More:

I'm considering a head gasket job and replacing the head bolts with studs by ARP while the engine is out and more accessible. Dealer wants $2K for that job. Are stock head gaskets $435? Is it likely I'll need this job soon and is this worth it?

Then there's the Bulletproof Diesel EGR/Oil cooler kit. I understand the stock EGR unit regularly fails and this is a good time to get at it. Dealer says $3626 for this job. Unbelievable. Full Bulletproof upgrade kit including new external oil cooler and EGR unit with gasket, etc, is $2200. Is this an easy job to do?

A bit confusing.

JoeH · 05-22-2012, 09:43 PM

Bulletproofdiesel offers an ARP headstuds with the gaskets for $950. http://www.bulletproofdiesel.com/category_s/48.htm

I'm no expert but I've been trying to get educated on the 6.0 as well. My understanding is unless you've had a catastrophic egr cooler blowout and resultant head gasket issues you probably don't need to replaces the studs or mess with the heads at all. Unless you want to of course but while the engine is out you should certainly consider an improved EGR cooler (like the BPD but there are others) or an EGR delete if your local emissions allows it. http://www.mkmcustoms.com/egrdeleteandupgradekits.aspx

The external BPD oil cooler is quite spendy at $2000 and to my knowledge has not been configured to fit a 4x4 SMB with an aluminess bumper. There will be modifications required. Since the 6.0 psd came out in 2003, FORD slightly improved the oil cooler. At a minimum replace the stock cooler with the newer FORD cooler. That, combined with a coolant filter to get the casting sand out of the block will probably be all you need.

There's an excellent write-up on the egr and oil cooler issues here. http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/genera ... l-psd.html
And another source for comparison of what it all can cost. http://www.thedieselstop.com/forums/f23 ... ed-288538/

Gnarvan · 05-22-2012, 10:02 PM

HOLY CRAP Batman.........What's next?

BIGVANS · 05-22-2012, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeffrey

More:

I'm considering a head gasket job and replacing the head bolts with studs by ARP while the engine is out and more accessible. Dealer wants $2K for that job. Are stock head gaskets $435? Is it likely I'll need this job soon and is this worth it?

Then there's the Bulletproof Diesel EGR/Oil cooler kit. I understand the stock EGR unit regularly fails and this is a good time to get at it. Dealer says $3626 for this job. Unbelievable. Full Bulletproof upgrade kit including new external oil cooler and EGR unit with gasket, etc, is $2200. Is this an easy job to do?

A bit confusing.

My buddy just did all the mods to his diesel work van and he is glad he did it all at once with the engine out one time. The bad side is the cost of all the upgrade parts!

carringb · 05-22-2012, 11:03 PM

IMO, the stock oil cooler is fine as long as the root causes for plugging is addressed: 1) casting sand, 2) precipitates from contaminated or broken-down coolant. #1 is addressed with a coolant filter installation. #2 is addressed by proper coolant maintenance (filter will help with this too).

If the oil cooler is plugged at all, the EGR cooler should be replaced as well. Overheating will cause fatigue, and it will fail eventually. Small cracks will only vent steam in limited situation, so sometimes the only symptom you see is a rusty turbo. This is what happened to my last 6.0 customer. I didn't even see the rust until I started to take things apart to find out why it over-boosted and exploded the intercooler.

If the EGR cooler has vented, and there is either rust present or exhaust sludge, the turbo needs a full rebuilt. #1 place for this is Bell Turbo in Philomath, OR (they only do rebuilds, so turbo has to be sent in). Besides rebuilding all wear parts, they clearance critical parts of the VVT setup to prevent sticking in the future. This will cost less than rebuilt half-turbo, and substantially less than a full rebuilt unit. And, it will work better.

BTW - all of this work, including aftermarket upgrades, can be some by some independent shops. This likely will cost less than going through a dealer, and as long as it is an affiliate shop like a NAPA AutoCare center, the warranty is just as good.

Now.... if there are no signs of EGR rupture, and EOT/ECT temps have been fine while driving, an engine oil cooler only replacement is still a good idea. Chances are, it still is partially clogged unless the rig has a coolant filter. A coolant filter can be added for under $100 in parts, if you are willing to piece the pieces together. Otherwise, even spending the extra bucks for a ready-made kit is still a good idea.

One more note.... if you are one of the unlucky ones who has a EGR cooler with internals that looks like a radiator core... dump it ASAP. If can fail even with a working oil cooler. Early '04 6.0's came with round tubes inside, then Ford went to the crap style cooler. Later, they returned to the round tube. I'm not sure when, but this is what shows up if you order new from Ford. ALL aftermarket EGR coolers also include round-tube internals.