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Old 05-14-2018, 11:26 AM   #31
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Since you can only take .008" off the heads before having to recess the valves, you can use a longer push rod equal to the amount of surface removed from the head. Not all factory machining is equal so it is crucial to measure lift with the newly machined head installed, then choose the correct push rod.
Most lifters have .200" of travel and most want them set half way .100". By only taking only .008' off the head longer or shorter push rods are a waste of time and money.

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Old 05-14-2018, 03:09 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hogasm View Post
Since you can only take .008" off the heads before having to recess the valves, you can use a longer push rod equal to the amount of surface removed from the head. Not all factory machining is equal so it is crucial to measure lift with the newly machined head installed, then choose the correct push rod.
Most lifters have .200" of travel and most want them set half way .100". By only taking only .008' off the head longer or shorter push rods are a waste of time and money.
After surfacing the head, the valve train moves closer to the cam, so why wouldn't you need a shorter, not longer pushrod? The only way to affect total lift is to change the cam profile or the rocker arm ratio. Milling the head, changing the cam profile or changing the valve stem length will require checking and / or adjusting the pushrod length to assure valve lash is in spec, and that the valve can close completely. A pushrod that's too long could cause the plunger in the lifter to bottom out, eliminating any valve lash, and in the extreme, cause the valve to hit the piston. .008 shorter heads don't seem like an issue with a total travel of .200, but I don't claim to be half as smart as folks who build engines for a living. Never the less, Ford changed the pushrod length for a reason. This stuff is confusing.......

EDIT: Here's a good explination: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017...ually-impacts/
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:09 PM   #33
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OOPS I did type longer
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Old 05-14-2018, 06:13 PM   #34
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The one thing I would want to do more research on regarding the "updated" practice of using the shorter push rods, which I feel like I didn't get a definite answer from the video was, when to use them. I got the feeling that Bill Hewitt is saying Ford is specifying them no matter what head, gasket, deck height. To which, if that is the case, is Ford admitting the original rods are to long even in a virgin motor? Do I have yet another thing to worry about? Valve train geometry can be some art and some science, hydraulic lifters aren't just a catch all to ill fitting parts. I wouldn't assume it's just bottoming out of the lifter plunger that is causing the wear seen in the video. A lot more info would be nice to make an informed decision.

Thanks for the link about valve trains Arctictraveller. Reading through that gave me some memories of my Dads conversations. Espcially where it said:

"DON’T ASSUME ALL CLEARANCES ARE CORRECT"

"DON’T ASSUME THE PARTS ARE CORRECT"

"YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR"

"DON’T THROW AWAY THE INSTRUCTIONS!"

I'm positive I'v heard every one of those from him at some point.

- Eric
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Old 05-17-2018, 08:37 PM   #35
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It’s back home, running great, like my new Edge CTS2 programmer and my new sinister coolant filter setup. 8k in parts, 4K in labor. I’m a happy camper!!
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Old 12-08-2018, 09:52 PM   #36
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Hi Mike,


I'm looking to do my "bulletproofing" since my warranty is up. What shop did the work for you, and how's it going so far? Do you mind sharing the work and parts that you got done?


thanks,
-Alex
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:35 AM   #37
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Buds Diesel in Huntington Beach did the work, very happy with it so far. My van had no real maintenance history, that’s what prompted me to have it done it had only 55k miles. Total was just under 14k, 8500 in parts and 4700 in labor. The motor was completely removed. Work included

New lifters
Cylinder heads machined and rebuilt
ARP head studs
Bulletproof heavy duty oil cooler
Bulletproof EGR cooler
New hi pressure oil pump
New injectors
New coolant filter
185 amp alternator
All new belts and hoses
Edge CTS monitor
New Fan clutch
3 pages of gaskets and seals.
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:41 AM   #38
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Where did you mount the BPD air-to-oil cooler?


For most of us with 4x4 and an aluminess bumper the only place to do it is in place of the winch.
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Old 12-09-2018, 11:45 AM   #39
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Where did you mount the BPD air-to-oil cooler?

For most of us with 4x4 and an aluminess bumper the only place to do it is in place of the winch.
You have my attention as well - I've been trying to figure out how to do this, hope your reply offers a solution that would apply to my set-up.
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Old 12-09-2018, 02:25 PM   #40
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It’s a diesel products upgraded oil cooler, in the stock location, my bad.
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