Out with the Old and In with a Cummins

[rebar]

Originally Posted by E350

For extra credit, how about explaining why?

How is performance/driving with two fewer cylinders?

How is the mpg?

Is it taller? I.e., did you have to do a body lift to fit the 6bt in?

Can you tell us what version of the 6bt is best?

And anything else you could tell us would be greatly appreciated.

Sorry my notifications were turned off.

First and foremost reason is the cummins reputation. You don't find people screaming bloody murder about the cummins as you do the fords. Second was the manual transmission. I cant stand automatics and hated the idea of towing with one.

2 less cylinders? lol how about 33% less moving parts and 50% more bearing area? 5.9 is plenty.

I got 28 mpg coming back from florida with a heavy (burn testing) foot.

Im not sure who did my cummins swap but it didn't require a body lift. I haven't done much work on the cummins other that change the oil. But my first gen runs like a top with unknown miles.

Most cummins engines out last at least one body since half a million miles is common. I believe the first gen got the best mileage, but the later gens have the ability for performance programs (chips) .

You can find more info seaching cummins forums.

[E350]

Rebar: Now that's news I can use.

Thank you for your reply. Yes, I have been snooping around the Cummins forums and have been to Destroked.com. I too want to ditch my 4R100 auto trans and go Zf6 manual. Did your converter install a Dodge (Allison?) manual behind your Cummins or use the Ford manual? How did he deal with the no-room-to-put-a-clutch-peddle-in-a-van problem? How do you actuate the clutch?

And yes it is apparently the Cummins 12-valve engines that are the best once the dowel pin issue is addressed.

"The '99 to '02 5.9L Cummins 24-valve engines have the '53 block problem,' because these engine blocks have the number 53 cast into the side of the crankcase. After years of use, the 53 blocks tend to crack until coolant starts to pour out the side of the block."

Read more:

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodg ... ewall.html

Yes rebar, I am just kicking tires here, but quite frankly I am having issues with my 7.3L and am Cummins-curious. So thank you again for your reply and any more that you want to add will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim Hodgson

[carringb]

FWIW '92 vans did have a M/T option on the 4.9L (it was a Mazda 5-speed). It was the only year in the new body style vans with a manual. The one M/T conversion I read about (ZF 5-speed I think) used the clutch pedal assembly from a '92.

[E350]

Carringb: Great info! The attached pdf shows the clutch actuator I was thinking about, but it would likely require an external clutch lever. I don't know if the zf6 uses an external clutch fork lever. If it uses an internal cable like on some of the smaller Ford pickups (i.e., Ranger), then this actuator would probably not work.

[rebar]

Originally Posted by E350

Rebar: Did your converter install a Dodge (Allison?) manual behind your Cummins or use the Ford manual? How did he deal with the no-room-to-put-a-clutch-peddle-in-a-van problem? How do you actuate the clutch?

And yes it is apparently the Cummins 12-valve engines that are the best once the dowel pin issue is addressed.

"The '99 to '02 5.9L Cummins 24-valve engines have the '53 block problem,' because these engine blocks have the number 53 cast into the side of the crankcase. After years of use, the 53 blocks tend to crack until coolant starts to pour out the side of the block."

Read more:

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/dodg ... ewall.html

Yes rebar, I am just kicking tires here, but quite frankly I am having issues with my 7.3L and am Cummins-curious. So thank you again for your reply and any more that you want to add will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Tim Hodgson

I was also curious because my dad had a 6bt on a 6 speed and I loved it. But it sold for 5 times the $ Iv got in this van.

The converter used a NV4500 5 speed. 2nd gear launches are brutal if you slip the clutch just right. Maybe thats why my D60FF rear is spitting shims. But its fun to drive and see people's reaction when you keep up or beat their new 2013 6 leaker diesel ford.

I think he used a stock clutch pedal. Maybe not.. scroll through my albums and if you want to see something else.. just ask


I heard about the 53 block and made sure mine wasn't before buying.

As far as the dowel pin.. I'm not digging around in mine to find the guy before me already fixed it. But will take a look when I'm in there next, even though this engine has run probably half a million miles already without the pin falling in the gears. Probably fell past the gears like most.

Frankly.. If I were you, and your 7.3 didn't need to be re sleeved. Id rebuild the 7.3 (it had a better reputation than the 6.0) the right way, and stick a manual trans behind it only after your automatic quits. Sounds cheaper unless you do the cummins swap yourself. Your looking at big money for a swap and that's why I jumped at the chance to own mine regardless of miles.

[E350]

Friggin' cool dude! (Always keep a quart of Diesel Kleen near the shifter.) Regarding mine: Yes, if it is only clogged injectors I will probably install some New Alliant AC Code 160 stock nozzle IH-type single shot injectors with a PHP Hydra and run it till the R4100 fails and replace it at that time with a flywheel and zf6 manual.

To copescobra, to Ujoint, and to rebar: I am surely not the only person who is jealous about your Cummins 12-valve conversion. Good Luck !!! and please keep posting.

[copescobra]

to E350-- that is very nice of you to say. For me it was the mother of necessity.
Chris at Ujoint deserves all the credit. My Van is getting a full 4x4 conversion as a result of the
7.3 failing. Chris asked if I wanted something unique and potentially special.

I replied, if he is willing, then I am all in, as long as it does not break the bank.

Chris is doing his best to keep it within my budget.

I cannot wait to get it back. Hope this thread is insightful to fellow members.

All I can say is that Chris has been a real joy to work with....i am sure I have not been the easiest client as I am concerned about the bottom line...economically.

[MTDewX8]

cool pics.

looks promising.

my van has 331k and I feel like I am throwing $ at it minus pulling it for a rebuild. frustrating.

as much as I am vested in my van, I wouldn't mind donating (but still owning it of course) my van for a project what ever it maybe up Chris at Ujoint's sleeve.

I really like that camper van he created. mine is a rusted so its hard to think about diving in to deep but could be a good canadaite for a cut up job lol.

keep us posted on the new motor you got.

what sucks is if I were lucky enough to do this some day. I would have to learn how to work on a new motor. only say that cause I have learned a lot on my 7.3. cousre if I rebuild I wont have to work on the things I have been since I bought it.

[rebar]

I had the tape measure out this morning wondering if a centered truck rear axle's drive shaft would hit the van gas tank, and found the cummins was offset only 1/2" to the right, unlike my failing D60 FF rear at about 2".

I'm only guessing they almost centered the cummins for turbo clearance.
My drive shaft engine/rear axle alignment would be better if I swapped in a centered truck axle, but I would have to "massage" the front portion of the gas tank with a rubber hammer for drive shaft clearance. Can anyone confirm?

A 14 bolt rear axle sure would be better suited for cummins power than the D60 and the SRW 14 bolt width is perfect at 67.5" wms-wms. Dime a dozen and better compared to D70's. Now, 14 bolt vs sterling vs D80 I'm not sure about, and wheel bolt patterns. New perch's are easy unlike widths less than 65" or over 68"

[E350]

rebar: Are you saying that the Dana 60 full floating axle is not stout enough to handle the torque of the Cummins 5.9 21-valve?