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Old 06-07-2017, 01:47 PM   #31
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Nope, the 6.0 likes to be pushed hard. Don't baby it. Excessive idling isn't good but definitely let it cool down so carbon doesn't coke the tEGR valve, turbo vanes and drain tube. In short, drive it like you stole it
X2. And use only OEM filters. Most aftermarket oil filter have too much bypass, and that's why so many 6.0s have torn oil sump screens, which damages injectors and the HPOP.

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Old 06-07-2017, 02:46 PM   #32
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Yep. Warm em up and hammer them. They like it. I make sure I floor it whenever I drive the F250
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:19 PM   #33
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My '09 6.0 PSD has an Overdrive Off instead of Tow/Haul. Anyone know if that can be reprogramed?
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Old 06-07-2017, 09:58 PM   #34
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My '09 6.0 PSD has an Overdrive Off instead of Tow/Haul. Anyone know if that can be reprogramed?
Yep, it's not really OD off. In fact, when the switch stops working you typically have to replace the whole lever. The replacement lever is labeled Tow/haul instead of OD OFF. In short, it's a leftover from the 7.3/4R100 combo which simply locked out OD when you pressed the switch. The 6.0/5R110 combo changes shift points drastically but still uses OD.

But to answer your question, most custom PCM tunes also contain transmission tuning and besides changing the shift points you can have the tune writer lock out the OD using the tow-haul button. It's quite useful for a quick downshift if your ever lugging the motor in OD.
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Old 06-08-2017, 04:45 AM   #35
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There's probably 1 diesel mechanic for every 10 gas mechanics, so that alone would make me choose gas. Diesel mechanics are well aware of this fact and charge accordingly.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:10 AM   #36
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There's probably 1 diesel mechanic for every 10 gas mechanics, so that alone would make me choose gas. Diesel mechanics are well aware of this fact and charge accordingly.
Ha, not where I live. Not even close. I won't argue that diesels are more expensive to maintain because they are, but there are lots of factors that determine labor rates.

Find a shop where you get good service and build a good relationship. All vehicles are expensive to fix these days.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:15 AM   #37
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You're right Joe. I guess I'm thinking about situations when your rig is broken down in East Bum F**k and need a mechanic.
Thanks for the imput.
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Old 06-08-2017, 08:41 AM   #38
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Mine is a 2008 model.

Many thanks to everyone that responded, and all of the great comments!

WhitH Your point about hammering it once in a while is a good one. As a young driver when the muscle cars hit the street, hammering it to me is driving it often like a bat out of hell. I'm not able to monitor the EGT as yet. I don't drive it much, but when I do, I ensure that I warm it up, run it until it reaches operating temps, and cool it down for five to seven minutes dependent upon how much time I had it on the highway.

JoeH - Like you, I get the EOT above 100F prior to driving off. We made a trip from the Seattle area to Cody, Wyoming, last year and I was truly impressed with how strong it ran on the grades both ways. Thank you for the comment about the EGT, too, as it is something I want to learn more about.

daveb - I have made it a habit bring it up to 190+ before I shut the engine down, and since most of my runs are relatively short, I idle it down for at least two minutes prior to turning it off after those type runs. All of my maintenance is performed at the local Ford dealership, and I have a lot of confidence in the diesel mechanic that I have used there twice now. I have started to use the Cetane booster as well.

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Old 06-08-2017, 10:31 AM   #39
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Autometer makes a nice EGT gauge and pillar pod for the E series if you do want to monitor exhaust temps. Or at least they did as of 4 years ago.
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Old 06-08-2017, 02:08 PM   #40
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In the diesel 6.0L what is the highest you would want to see your ECT at?
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