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Old 08-29-2019, 06:30 PM   #111
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No, I still haven't driven mine more than just getting it home... which is currently some 400 miles from where I'm currently working, so right now the van is just one of many projects I'm not working on. Besides, mine doesn't even have a turbo, so I still have to decide on going down that rabbit hole before thinking about adding an intercooler. I spend time on this forum to keep motivated to not forget about the van and continue to get more build ideas.

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Old 08-29-2019, 10:22 PM   #112
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Thanks Brian. Looking forward to seeing you, as always, my friend.



We found the culprit, and made chassis changes to Chuck's car that should keep you photogs from 'diving for cover' like at Memorial Day race. Shooting race pics seems like a semi-dangerous gig, I don't know who wet themselves first, Chuck, Kyle, you, or me . Got that pic handy?
Yes always good to see you of course

And good to hear of the fix LOL
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Old 08-30-2019, 07:19 AM   #113
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Another frozen brake caliper, too bad you can't buy new ones because I think the rebuild quality is suspect. Nice to hear it's running though.

I pulled the offending caliper apart last night and got it up on the bench. pads look ok, rotor is serviceable. Other than the piston dust boots being overheated, they didn't look bad. the square seals are still pliable, no sign of them failing. ABS sensor wire sheathing is partially melted. The guide pins still have grease, boots good and run smooth, no sign of hanging up. The pistons are made of phenolic, a tough plastic, so no white chalky corrosion or rust. The bores in the cast iron caliper body are in good shape, have some gunk buildup (likely cooked brake fluid), but certainly not frozen. They popped out with application of a little air. The return springs are still in tact on the pads. The slider bracket has light surface rust, but nothing I'd replace.



I wonder what in the heck is going on... I know very little about anti-lock brakes, but after reading some of the insights on your thread, Jeff, I'm wondering if there's an anti-lock system issue.


I've got two weeks to finish this thing up and get it roadworthy enough to tackle a 1600 mi trip
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Old 08-30-2019, 12:38 PM   #114
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I wonder what in the heck is going on... I know very little about anti-lock brakes, but after reading some of the insights on your thread, Jeff, I'm wondering if there's an anti-lock system issue.
I have no idea either, but it seems to be a common problem. When I returned my last (re-built) caliper to the auto parts store, the guy said something like, "We get a lot of these back for that reason" (hung up piston, cooked pads). I had hoped to replace it with a new one, but he could only find rebuilt ones. I've never torn one down though, I just returned them, so I don't know if the internals would have shown any damage. It's all very odd............
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Old 08-30-2019, 01:22 PM   #115
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Your thread, and the fact that I’ve had this issue before, prompted my to take mine apart. I just got a message that my $8 caliper piston square seal and dust boot kit came in. I’ll get them installed after work, re use the old pads, and take it out tomorrow morning. Normally I don’t bother replacing piston seals in oem calipers, but until I find a ‘smoking gun’ I don’t want to just “throw parts at it and pray”. Heck, I can pay a shop $500 to do that 😂
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Old 09-03-2019, 12:59 PM   #116
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After monkeying around trying to install the new seals in the old caliper, having no luck installing the piston dust boots, I finally gave in and picked up a $90 reman caliper bracket w/lifetime warranty from O'Reilly's <shrugs shoulders>. No more hanging caliper, took it out fro 20 miles.


No drips, everything works except the AC.... my grinder got away from me a couple weeks ago, I accedentally cut into one of the hardlines, vented the entire system. Shhhhh... I'm in California, probably violated 17 different environmental statutes, and deserve to be jailed. Does anyone know how I 'self report'? LOL!


Anyhow, the power isn't overwhelming, the boost gauge isn't showing more that 10-15psi when I romp on it, I may have a boost hose leak, will investigate while changing out the AC lines, filter dryer and all the o-rings while I'm in there.
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Old 09-04-2019, 11:42 AM   #117
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From my limited digging thus far, you might need a larger turbo to take advantage of the intercooler. I've been looking at turbo kits for my IDI and a common FAQ is about an intercooler and the response was the boost level isn't high enough for it to be effective.

For me, half the reason I want a turbo is to help with keeping power levels consistent when driving at the altitudes I hope to see with my van. Especially towing an enclosed car trailer.

I definitely have to make sure I do a dyno pull with the NA engine before hand. Fortunately, there are a couple of shops a few miles away from me. But in reality, the camper conversion will come before I worry about adding power.
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Old 11-12-2019, 06:52 PM   #118
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It's my understanding the vans have a Turbo one step bigger than the pickups and the pickups come with an intercooler from the factory so I'm not sure if that is the issue.
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Old 11-13-2019, 06:21 AM   #119
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Wish I could remember which member it was but he was well informed about the truck and van turbo sizing. Iirc, the van turbo isn’t necessarily bigger than the truck turbo the difference was where it’s powerband is. The trucks power band is lower in the rpm range and the vans is higher. The member I’m referencing put a truck turbo in his van and was happy with the results because it allowed his rig to be more efficient with power down low where he needed it. Off the line to get moving with a heavier trailer.
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Old 11-13-2019, 07:41 AM   #120
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It's because the truck turbos are smaller, hence better low end.

https://www.powerstrokenation.com/fo...s/78471?page=1
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