Questions re: keeping 7.3 on the road and trouble free

[copescobra]

I have a 2000 EB 7.3 with 200,000 miles on it now.
I have it up on the members classified section but may end up keeping it and converting it to a 4x4 with Chris at U-joint. That is not the point of this question.
I would like to justify keeping it and refurbishing it.
I thought that perhaps getting a 7.3 with lower miles might be better as I am not mechanically inclined.
Having said that: I would love to know the opinion of fellow members if keeping it makes sense.
I am willing to spend $5-8K to try and make it "like new" mechanically if that is possible.
Besides putting new injectors what else would you all recommend I spend my money on to try and insure longevity and prevent breakdowns' on the road if that is possible.
You comments would be greatly appreciated as I read a post regarding comments on what should be done for a member who has 6.0.
Thank you in advance.
Copes

[BroncoHauler]

A beefed up transmission would be a great start. Injectors would be good too, but to get the most out of injectors, you should consider an improved high pressure oil pump (HPOP). Getting one of the better known computer tunes would help as well.

The flip side is if if ain't broke, don't fix it.


Herb

[Ocsmb]

Fuel and oil and your good to go

[carringb]

New glow plugs should go in while you do injectors. Those go out often. Champion sells a higher temp glow plug vs stock. Could be nice in cold areas. If any of the glow plugs that come out are bad (check w/ OHM meter) then do a new glow plug relay too, because a shorted glow plug will damage the relay.

And yes, the transmission is the weak spot on the 7.3L combo. If the transmission is newer, a stronger torque converter, better cooling, and improved programming will go a long ways in making it last a long time.

[robtbritn]

I bought my van new and now have 223,000 miles on the 7.3, have never done anything but change oil and filters. Never had a problem with the transmission either but had it rebuilt for good measure a few weeks ago at the tune of $2600...I would just run the thing if your not having any problems with it!

[E350]

Do the Hutch Mod Now or Weep Later and be forced to replace your injectors.

Ford Painted the Inside of the Fuel Tank ! ???

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/11837 ... -tank.html

I guess the hutch mod could be considered optional on a 7.3 F250/F350 pickup truck because they have plastic fuel tanks (but most people do them anyway along with the Harpoon Mod).

The diesel vans, however, especially need the hutch mod (as do the F450s and F550s) because they all have a steel fuel tank. And since the tank is made of galvanized steel, which is fine for gasoline but which reacts with the sulfer in diesel fuel, the in-tank fuel pickup screens get clogged up with the 10-13 year old peeling paint, which causes a fuel starvation problem which damages the injectors (even if the injectors avoid being damaged by being clogged by the paint itself).

Here is the Hutch Mod that I did:

Hodgson's Hutch Mod/Frame Rail Pre-Pump Strainer

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/12028 ... ainer.html

I am considering doing a different connection to the fuel pump to eliminate the quick disconnect at that juncture. But maybe not. My main goal was to eliminate the in-tank screen and to add a frame rail fuel diesel strainer/filter with a plastic screw on see-through jar so that I could see if it is clogged by the continuing peeling paint.

I bought 2 of everything including the Racor filter and will offer the second set on ebay as I stated in the thread.

If you want to buy the parts yourself, I also list the parts I used on my thread.

But alot of 7.3 enthusiasts think that I over-did the job. Do a search, there are many ways to the hutch mod. Check out Guzzles:

http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/hutch.php

BTW, if you read my thread carefully you will also see that the van in-tank pickup apparatus has the float on the opposite side of where it is on the F250/F350, so that crazy bend in the return line tube to go around the float is not necessary in the van. On the other hand, the van tank has a baffle which is in the way which requires you to either notch the baffle (DO NOT USE ELECTRIC TOOLS IT IS A FRIGGIN' FUEL TANK WITH EXPLOSIVE FUEL FOR CHRIST'S SAKE!) or to make the bend above the baffle.

Hope this helps,
Tim Hodgson

[copescobra]

thanks for the input. All stuff I will be doing thanks.

[shenrie]

ive got a buddy with a 97 f350 that told me to keep a cam position sensor in the vehicle at all times. I guess his has gone out a few times in the 300k+ miles he has on his 7.3. dunno if this issue has been rectified since 97, but at only 40 bucks, i dont mind having a spare on board.

ive had mine for a week and after a problemless 2600 mile road trip to get it home, i came out to the driveway to find it leaking fuel. apparently the valve that helps separate water from the fuel is prone to leaking on these as well. ive got mine on order and will change it out once it arrives.

e350, interesting info about the tank. the tank in my van doesnt look stock at all. i remember reading somewhere when these are converted to 4wd, the stock tank needs to be modified for the transfer case to clear. is it possible my tank is aftermarket? what size is the stocker tank, meaning how much fuel does it hold? one of my fills held 37 gallons and i filled it at a 1/4 tank.

[bratworst]

Transfer Flow 46 gal. can be found on many Sportsmobile and other 4x4 builds.