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Old 07-10-2022, 11:57 AM   #11
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beyond the already mentioned wiring harness issues sometimes this can be caused by the ICP ( Injector control pressure) sensor which most of times will give you a TDC and light up the engine indicator, however sometimes it does not light up, ni TDC and engine will not start, most of times this will happen with an engine at running temperature, stop it and then it will not re-start, let it cool down and then it will start again.
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Old 07-10-2022, 12:01 PM   #12
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Happened to mine once and it ended up getting new motor. Crank but no start with no code, towed to mechanic. They found that one of the lifters needle bearings had become dislodged and jammed the oil pump(I forgot which one but probably low pressure). Once removed it started right up but they said the motor might work fine or it might have the same problem at the first stop light. A few months prior I had gotten an oil analysis from blackstone and while I have forgotten the specifics they found odd levels of something that suggested bearing streak. While waiting for the tow truck I was doing some googling and there were a couple other possible causes for crank, no start + no code. I THINK they were FICM, HPOP, and something related to the stand tubes.
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Old 07-10-2022, 03:32 PM   #13
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Hi Brian,

I am sorry to hear about your trouble. I have a 2005 E350 6.0 PSD 4x4 with about 170,000 miles on it. I am very familiar with gasoline engines and consider myself to be very accomplished mechanic when it comes to gas vehicles. This is only my second diesel though so I am still really just a novice when it comes to our engines.

The 6.0 PSD engine seems to be very temperamental and comes with a wide range of issues / quirks. I just had a no start issue surface when changing my fuel filters along with an oil change. This was my first time changing the fuel filters on this vehicle and, aside from having to remove a bunch of components to gain access to the upper engine mounted filter, it was pretty simple and straight forward. I got everything back together, keyed the vehicle on several times to prime the system with fuel, then fired her up. She ran beautifully for 45 seconds then developed a misfire which worsened until it died. After it died the engine would crank, fire on a cylinder but would not start. After time it wouldn't do anything but crank over.

I did some google research and found that if your fuel filter housing are not 100% sealed tiny amounts of air can get into the system and cause issues. I had no fuel leaks anywhere and could no longer access the upper fuel filter because everything was put back together on the top side. I tightened the lower canister housing 90 more degrees as a starting point, and then re-primed the system, cranked her over and she ran beautifully first try.

I was however left with some new issues. 1. My fuel pump is now really noisy so I am wondering if this air sealing issue caused a 17 year old fuel pump to now fail 2. with my lower filter housing now being index 90 degrees further the water contamination sensor plug no longer reaches and the connector on the housing now faces the front driveline. If anyone else reading this has suggestions I would greatly appreciate your feedback.

For your issue on a gas engine I would consider that you need fuel, air, and spark to have a runner. I would typically pull a plug to check for spark and use starting fluid to see what happens if a fuel is added. These two diagnostic checks give you a path to go down.

On your diesel engine you need fuel and air. I know that people in cold climates will sometimes use starting fluid on a diesel but some quick googling led me to a forum that warned about use of starting fluid on a modern diesel. Many reasons are given but one common one was undesirable ignition by the glow plugs. Given your rig runs you just have intermittent issues, I bet it is fuel control / delivery and not intake obstructions or anything else where ether as a diagnostic tool would be beneficial.

Probably a better first test would be check your fuse boxes (in cab and under hood) for a blown fuse with a test light or DVOM.

If all is good, I would check to see if you have the presence of fuel. When you key your vehicle on you should hear a variety computer controlled operations happening. One of which would be your fuel pump cycling on and pressurizing the system. You should be able to locate your frame mounted pump / filter assembly and with a helper key the vehicle on and observe the pump making noise as it pressurizes the system. No sound could mean bad fuses, relay, or wiring. You could also check for voltage at the fuel pump wiring connector.

If your pump has power, is running, and you have the ability to do a fuel pressure check that would be another great step. I have read that these engines are particular about fuel pressure and are known to be equipped with a regulation spring that is inadequate. Google 6.0 PSD Blue Spring Kit. If you do not have the ability to check fuel pressure, you can at least check for the presence of fuel. You can check the upper filter housing or you can check the frame mounted filter by opening the water drain and observing how much fuel is in the system. Perhaps while sitting your system looses its fuel prime due to a small air leak and simply keying the vehicle on to reprime the system with fuel a few times could resolve the issue.

After rereading your post I now am reminded that this has only happened twice after sitting and days later your vehicle starts fine. These are the most frustrating issues because there is no obvious hard failure. I have had fuel pump relays that corroded or had worn out in the past on other vehicles that would work intermittently and left me stranded only to work again after sitting. Perhaps it is time to do some preventative maintenance and simply replace some of the relays that seem to function ordinarily with new ones.

Outside of these ideas it would be hard to provide any further recommendations without seeing the vehicle myself. I feel for you and hope you are able to find the problem. I have been stranded before in my van a long ways away from home where I was forced to do a roadside alternator swap which on a 6.0 PSD van is not a pretty task. I understand your frustration and lack of confidence this issue is causing. One last thing to look at would be your glow plug circuit. It would be good to know if your glow plugs are functioning at the time your rig fails to start.

Good luck,

Matt
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Old 10-26-2022, 07:26 PM   #14
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Round 3: After months of the van starting and running fine, last weekend it did the crank, no start routine again. It would not start again a week later and I have not tried it since. I'm looking online for an engine wiring harness replacement part. It may well be some other problem, but my scan gauge again shows no codes before, during, or after the no start happens.

For those that have had the engine wiring harness changed, what shop did you use? I'm in the far northwest corner of Washington state but would like info on shops anywhere in the west that would be willing to take on the job and that people have had good experiences with.

Thanks,

Brian
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Old 10-26-2022, 10:31 PM   #15
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I have a reliable diesel mechanic in Hubbard OR just south of Portland. He has done a lot of work on my van including fixing my harness and ICP issue in the past. He just did the blue wire mod for the fan and said he would put in my new harness once we both feel it is time. Fleet service NW. Rob Gaskell. (503) 982-5516‬ fleetservnw@aol.com

Vans suck a$$ to work on but he has been willing for me. I know others with SMB that have used him also.
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Old 10-27-2022, 08:39 AM   #16
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With my harness issue, the engine would shut down while driving or stutter and never threw a code. Almost like a switch that would just turn off. If it died completely, I would pull over then it would restart and run normal...sometimes for days. It never left me stranded like the HPOP sensor did.

Browns diesel in Fresno did the harness. Not long after, J's performance wrapped the harness at critical spots. Then the Cam sensor failed. When that sensor failed, it was almost impossible to drive two miles to get home...several starts and stops.
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Old 10-27-2022, 11:26 AM   #17
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To the OP. Did you try having someone wiggle the harness while you try to crank start it?
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Old 10-27-2022, 07:36 PM   #18
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vandiesel,

Thanks for the info. I'll keep this contact in mind. Portland is about 5 hours from me and I have friends there.

Brian
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Old 10-27-2022, 07:48 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daveb View Post
With my harness issue, the engine would shut down while driving or stutter and never threw a code. Almost like a switch that would just turn off. If it died completely, I would pull over then it would restart and run normal...sometimes for days. It never left me stranded like the HPOP sensor did.

Browns diesel in Fresno did the harness. Not long after, J's performance wrapped the harness at critical spots. Then the Cam sensor failed. When that sensor failed, it was almost impossible to drive two miles to get home...several starts and stops.
Thanks for the info.

When the wiring harness to the speed sensor failed the van would cut out (stutter) very briefly, and it felt like it was going to downshift but didn't. It did it when hot but not when it was cold. So that meant it would act up miles from home but never when driving around town. A local shop kept it for days and drove it around as their shuttle car trying to get it to act up and it finally did. This is when they found the code for the speed sensor. They changed the sensor and I took off on a longer trip and it acted up again. The second time it was in the shop they tried to fix a chaffed wire in the harness but it never fixed the problem. They subbed the van to a transmission shop who changed the harness to the speed sensor and that problem was fixed.

The lack of a problem code and the intermittent way it has happened again makes me think it is a partially broken wire, or maybe fully broken now since it won't start at all.

I am going to try it again this weekend. It if won't start I'm going to try putting the key in the Run position and using a screwdriver on the starter to crank it over. I've had to do this before when it failed (turbo hose blew off) on a road trip and I was close enough to home to make it after getting it started.

By the way, driving it with the turbo hose off was interesting. It took miles to get up to freeway speed without the boost. Off of a stop it would VERY slowly gain speed but it actually ran at freeway speeds OK.
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Old 10-27-2022, 07:50 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lilnuts2 View Post
To the OP. Did you try having someone wiggle the harness while you try to crank start it?
No, I have not tried that yet. If it's not raining this weekend I'm going to play with it again and likely will try this. When you moved the harness was it the wires up on top of the engine that you moved?
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