Semi Float > Full Float?

[JWA]

Originally Posted by JoeH

Your gonna want this if you want to pull the axles. https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-Perfor...productDetails

I think the guys who'll do my axle swap would have such tools but I'll check and buy one if its necessary. Thanks for the heads up though!

Originally Posted by carringb

1) They definitely put the dog dishes on vans with FF's, but I don't know if they made them in different depths.

2) wire brushing them followed by Scotchbrite. Maybe chase them if they're really bad.

3) doing the pinion seal with those miles. When that seal dries out, water can enter there and allow the pinion bearings to corrode.

4) I'd just hit it quick with a wire brush. No need to fully detail it IMO.

Definitely run full synthetic. I recommend 75w-140. The Motorcraft stuff is good but I use Mobile 1 just because that's what Napa carries and is often on sale.

Will do on all these suggestions. I keep forgetting I have a decent Mitchell Crash Book from 2010 that's fairly accurate on most parts. Looking at wheel cover offerings that manual doesn't single out FF or SF covers so I'm guessing the dog dishes were possibly all the same depth. I'll contact a few who might know more definitely but so far looks like I can retain the ones I already have.

Thanks again guys---looking forward to this swap.

[Vanimal]

carringb, this is a tutorial question for ll in this thread I am sure will aid some! Most have a single wheel rear end like my 2002 7.3 P.S. on 35's. In front I have a 60 from a dually (spacers removed) with 4.30. Since 2005 when I converted to 4x4 I have never regeared my 4.10 gears in the rear 60. I never have really needed 4x4 in all the offroad I have done. In snow I just engaged if I slipped. In dirt engaged only if wheels spun. I tried 37's but did not like them so I will stay at 35's. I have 4.56 & locker for the rear but would like to stay at 4.30. With the Diesel 4.30 I think, is just right.
I figure swapping out to a rear 4.30 ratio rear end will be easier, cheaper and an upgrade to the 60 rear. I figure less than $500 on a used Sterling or 70 vs. New R n P at $400 plus bearing rebuild kit $200. I 'll try n use the locker in front and sell the 4.56 gears. My question So I don't have to research what years rear end can I use? I know I am Just being lazy but you may have a quicker response.

[Lilnuts2]

Hummm, I didn't think you could get a 4:30 in a Dana 60

[Vanimal]

My 1999 front 60 has 4.30 it came out of a dually. My rear came with 4.10. Dana Spicer and some of the others do not make a 4.30 regular cut for a 60, they may have but not any longer. I can only assume the fronts were matched with a Sterling or a 70 on dually pickups.
Yukon Gear is the only I have found that still makes them for a regular cut 60.

[carringb]

Vanimal - I agree the the 4.30 is probably ideal for your setup, and also that you should just do the Sterling swap to get it. 4.30 gears in the D60 are weak, and it's not fun when you pop off a pinion tooth by loading a trailer without the parking brake set (ask me how I know...)

I think you want an '05-'10 axle. The '99-04 axles will work as well, but the '05 axle came with larger brakes (requiring 17" wheels which I assume you have already), and a less leak-prone pinion seal. Also, somewhere in there ('08 I think) the electric locker became a factory option.

2011 was the first year for RSC in the SRW SuperDuty trucks, which means they will have outboard wheels speed sensors, rather than the diff speed sensor, making them incompatible with your ABS.

[JWA]

Originally Posted by JoeH

Your gonna want this if you want to pull the axles. https://www.amazon.com/Wilmar-Perfor...productDetails

So if I want to buy this tool how do I know I'm ordering the correct one? The linked tool seems to be for the 10.5" axles and later years than I'll be acquiring. I'm okay buying one but want to make sure it'll work.

(I did say earlier I thought my guys would have such a tool but it can't hurt having one of my own for reasons unknown at the moment. )

[carringb]

This is one of those tools where it is hard to order the correct one, without just having one to actually look at. Most driveline shops will have a drawer full of them.

Without one, you can persuade it loose with a blunt screwdriver or a punch. You can put it back together this way too, but of course torque values are uhh, less than precise....

[JWA]

Originally Posted by carringb

This is one of those tools where it is hard to order the correct one, without just having one to actually look at. Most driveline shops will have a drawer full of them.

Yeah I was afraid of that! I'll wait until I have the axle in hand and either retrieve whatever number(s) are needed to narrow down which it might be.

I'm still thinking my guys may have something but since they don't usually work on anything this small maybe not?

Originally Posted by carringb

Without one, you can persuade it loose with a blunt screwdriver or a punch. You can put it back together this way too, but of course torque values are uhh, less than precise....

I'll have the luxury of time to order the correct tool---any established torque values I'd prefer to be as accurate/precise as I can.

Thanks CarringB!

[Vanimal]

Originally Posted by carringb

Vanimal - I agree the the 4.30 is probably ideal for your setup, and also that you should just do the Sterling swap to get it. 4.30 gears in the D60 are weak, and it's not fun when you pop off a pinion tooth by loading a trailer without the parking brake set (ask me how I know...)

I think you want an '05-'10 axle. The '99-04 axles will work as well, but the '05 axle came with larger brakes (requiring 17" wheels which I assume you have already), and a less leak-prone pinion seal. Also, somewhere in there ('08 I think) the electric locker became a factory option.

2011 was the first year for RSC in the SRW SuperDuty trucks, which means they will have outboard wheels speed sensors, rather than the diff speed sensor, making them incompatible with your ABS.

See I knew you'd know thanks. Looks like '05-'10. I do have 17's but I have 8 on 6.5 wheels. The front has a spacer converting 8 on 170mm to 8 on 6.5. I like it because it gives me a wider stance in front. I was not worried about the leverage on the ball joints since it was a dually axle with spacers! I am assuming the Sterling has 170mm spacing. I will not mind if I have to adapt/space the back from 170 to 6.5 but I prefer to keep it narrower for traveling off road on narrow switch backs and edges. You can climb a wall with the front to make a turn but not the back so it helps on tight turns. My rear wheels tuck in so far I can't run snow chains in the rear because of the leaf springs...which I am ok with just the posi. An E locker would be a stiffy!

[carringb]

The Sterling is 8x170, and will match the front track once you pull of those adapters. And I think I saw a nice set of (5) 8x170 wheels on here the other day....