Semi Float > Full Float?

[carringb]

Yup, pulling dims off the rotor should be fine. The vans cutaways only got the dana 70 but something may have been built with the sterling. Maybe some stripped chassis for fedex or some other huge fleet who demanded axle commonality.

The Eaton catalog covers all trucks and vans, and they do list the Dana70-2U 10.5” which should be what you’re trying to put in. The housing stamp should confirm that.

[Lilnuts2]

Typically axle widths are measured wheel mounting surface (WMS) to WMS.
I don't think they ever put a Sterling axle under a van.

[waren]

Originally Posted by carringb

Yup, pulling dims off the rotor should be fine. The vans cutaways only got the dana 70 but something may have been built with the sterling. Maybe some stripped chassis for fedex or some other huge fleet who demanded axle commonality.

The Eaton catalog covers all trucks and vans, and they do list the Dana70-2U 10.5” which should be what you’re trying to put in. The housing stamp should confirm that.

Thanks. Agree that measuring from mating surface to mating surface is typical I found a diff with rotors on it so seemed like the easiest way to check.

Thanks for the info confirming d70 ... I guess what was throwing me in the catalog was the end date of 1997, but maybe that was the trucks.

[Lilnuts2]

I have a Dana SWD 70 U2 in my garage out of a 04 chassis cab. If any one wants a measurement, let me know.

[waren]

Originally Posted by Lilnuts2

I have a Dana SWD 70 U2 in my garage out of a 04 chassis cab. If any one wants a measurement, let me know.

I would actually really appreciate that. Is it from a rear tank that @carringb recommended as being 4-5” wider? Does it have discs on it? If so a measurement disc to disc outside outside would be awesome

[Lilnuts2]

Yes it is from a rear tank Chassis cab and is wider then the stock axle. from the wheel mounting side of the disc to disc is 67-1/8"
The WMS to WMS is 72-1/2"

keep in mind the wheels are off and the disc's were removed and put back in place but not tightened. So when everything is tight you might drop the 1/8"

[waren]

Thanks!.

I crawled under my van and pulled a tape across the bottom edge of my rotors and it’s about 61-5/8” outside braking surface to outside braking surface that works out to 5.5” a little more than expected.

I’ll pull the wheels and measure from wms to wms that is discs still installed correct? Or discs removed hub to hub?

Appreciate having a test run here rather than back and forth with the seller. Nice to have confirmation of the “correct” length so I’ll know for sure what I’m getting!

[Lilnuts2]

Your welcome, yes disc's installed for WMS to WMS measurement. Many use 1-1/2" or 2" wheel stud adapters when converting to 4x4. So 2-3/4" per side with no adapters isn't out of the ballpark for the rear of these ford vans.

[waren]

So thinking more about my axle options I took some measurements from the tire sidewall (top of tire) to the outside edge of the top of the wheel arch and rediscovered something I had forgotten about.

I am the second owner of the van (2006 E350 with a TTB 4WD conversion) so I don’t know the full history of the vehicle, I don’t see any evidence of an accident or frame damage.

The axles are not perfectly centered under the body. I took these measurements while sitting on a cambered street. I adjusted a vertical straight edge pressed against the outside of the top of the whee arch until I had equal measurements to the top and bottom of the wheels.i don’t think the fronts are pointed perfectly straight but close enough for illustration.

When I purchased the van I replaced the rear bushings with urethane some improvement.

Measurements today, horizontal distance from sidewall to outside top of wheel arch. The distance the bodywork sticks out passed the sidewall, or the amount of tire coverage ... flares would add 2.5” to these numbers.

Driver side rear 1.25”
Passenger side rear 1.75”
Driver side front 0.25”
Passenger side front 1”

Without the modified hinge I have 1.25” clearance between the door and the body, 2” between the bottom door seam and the tire sidewall and about 1” between the tire sidewall and the inner door panel trim.

Based on measurements of the cutaway FF axle above it is about 2.75” wider than my stock SF axle per side or 5.5” overall.

From what I can gather MGM’s door hinge mod instructions move the slider out 2.75” at the rear contact point, but obviously doesn’t move the top and bottom front contact points which is why MGM mods the barn door flare for clearance at the front. (I found a picture of this on expo van site btw MGM)

So it’s clear that I would need the hinge mod to swap to the cutaway axle. However now I am also wondering if I should be investigating some problem with the axle centering? The spring packs seem straight and true no obvious offset of 0.5” in the rear. The 4WD conversion was done by a reputable shop and again no obvious place of misalignment.

Edit: I measured from the frame to the outside tread edge of the tire;
Driver side rear 17”
Passenger side rear 16.5”
This coincides with the tire to body measurements.

Measurements of the frame to body lower wheel arch pinch seam to frame agree side to side.

Wheels are factory 16” Alcoa’s and 265/75R16 KO2.

This van was a unicorn find for me ... but I sure wish it was as a unicorn with barn doors.

[waren]

Resurrecting once again. I lost momentum on this last year, dealing with a failed 6L oil cooler. Back on track.

I’ve re-read the thread, I think I found a diff and a factory slider door hinge to modify.

My question is this … are custom axles the only way of upgrading to 35 spline axles in the cutaway d70 FF?

I assume so given how rare the cutaway srw diff is in the first place, and I understand they are all 32 spline 4:10. And finally being 2.5-2.75” per side wider, I also assume that if I could find 35 spline axles from an older drum brake diff they would be too short.