Shifter - loose?

ANZAC · 09-29-2011, 11:25 PM

My van really doesn't seem to center in the gears, especially Park, makes it hard to get the key out.

Is there an adjustment, or do I need a new cable/shifter box thing?

(edit) tranny is 4R100

Elltom · 09-30-2011, 09:44 AM

Same here. It's an easy fix, but have not tried it yet.

ANZAC · 09-30-2011, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elltom

Same here. It's an easy fix, but have not tried it yet.

What is the fix?

carringb · 09-30-2011, 06:30 PM

It may just be the nut on the pivot shoulder bolt.
But I've also had to replace a shifter assembly (not mine) because the casting broke.

Elltom · 09-30-2011, 09:54 PM

I read about the fix on Ford Truck Enthusiast site. There is a screw in the column that needs to be tightened. I can't give a link, but I found a lot of info on it. Went to the dealer.....they never heard of the issue, and offered no fix, while under warranty. 2006 quigley v10.

joey2cool · 10-01-2011, 11:18 AM

I too have noticed a problem with the shifter getting into the Park position correctly. The indicator light doesn't go on until the shifter is centered into position. Right now, this is just an inconvenience. My van is a 2010 model and I'll be asking my dealer about it during next month's regular service. Let you know what I find out.

ANZAC · 10-01-2011, 12:02 PM

Ironically my old 1999 E350 was super precise on the shifter and had 85,000 miles on it!

I think it has to be an adjustment up at the steering column because the ignition key interlock depends on it. I think the actual shifting to the transmission is fine.

Bigduke6 · 04-08-2012, 10:25 AM

Not bad to fix this issue if you find the answer first! I had this problem getting worse for a while, then a bolt fell out and it wouldn't go into park at all. Found the fix on f150 site. Look up and inboard of steering column from the brake pedal area. Two gold torx bolts with the heads facing front of vehicle. Tighten those and it shifts good again... Mine could also use a new rubber bushing on the shifter pivot- it slipped out and down the shaft, for now I just slid it back into place, maybe without the loose bolts it will stay. PITA to get to that one, dismantle dash and lower panel, pull lock cylinder and remove column surround, my ratchet would not fit in to pull bracket, so will monitor and change out as needed. Sounds like this is not uncommon.

BIGVANS · 04-08-2012, 11:38 AM

This is a common problem, the main symptom being the shift lever not staying all the way up in the “Park” position and not releasing the ignition key. The plastic bushings on both ends of the shift lever pivot shaft on the steering column are worn and/or have worked out of place. Unfortunately they wear quickly and you may have this happen more than once. Last time I checked the Ford part number for the bushings was “F3TZ-7L278-A”. If you remove your ignition lock and plastic steering column covers you can see the shaft, bushings, and check the end play of the shaft.

joey2cool · 12-29-2012, 10:17 AM

Here's an update on my shift lever problems. It's rare and intermittment - about one in a hundred tries. This is a 2010 FORD E250 2WD 4-speed V8 gas engine with 12,000 miles on it.

Twice, the shift lever positioned to Park, but the indication light was in Neutral just as ignition key was put into off position and removed. Once, the shift level positioned to Park, but no indication light showed until jiggled a bit and it went to Park. The most recent instance was with the shift lever positioned to Reverse, indication light in Reverse, but engine reving and in Neutral. That sent me to the dealer for warranty work.

There's been no trouble removing the key from the ignition lock position which is a symptom that others have posted here. The dealer tested operation of the shift indicator about 30 times, but was unable to verify concern. They checked DTCS (whatever that is) and said "none present." Also checked OASIS (again, not sure what this is) and said "no SSMS or TSBS for this type of concern." And they checked the "workshop manual" and said "no symptom chart tests for this type of concern."

Bottom line, after two hours I got nothing resolved. If it's going to occur more frequently, hope it does so before my warranty is up in six months (for bumper-to-bumper) or two and half years (if it can be tied to the transmission).

I'm not a mechanic, so I'm not going to tear the thing apart myself. I could pay for two hours of labor at $100/hour to have my dealer explore on a hunch, because if they come up empty it won't be covered under warranty. I'm thinking I need to be extra careful when shifting now. Don't want this to cause an accident. Other thoughts?