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Old 10-26-2021, 09:45 AM   #11
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carringB - do you mean "main chassis" battery or "house" battery - did all SMB West rigs come with one ? What does it look like (photo) ?

Your knowledge level is SO MUCH appreciated - as is ALL senior members and others who unselfishly answer questions - I personally apologize for my lack of knowledge mechanically and electrically ! I played too much golf and tennis growing up, I guess ??

My hats off to all of you !

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Old 10-26-2021, 10:03 AM   #12
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This is a Ford part, nothing to do with SMB or camper integration.



The above pic is for gas, I am not sure about diesel.

-greg
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Old 10-26-2021, 11:10 AM   #13
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Yup^ That’s the one. The upper one labeled starter relay. It’s the same for 7.3L PSDs. I’m not sure about 6.0’s.

Everybody should know where this is, because it’s the most common no-crank fault on our vans (and probably has resulted in MANY unnecessary starter replacements). Mine goes out every 100,000 miles. I carry a spare. Just rolled over 500,000 some I’m due for another….
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Old 10-26-2021, 11:11 AM   #14
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I can’t emphasize enough…be careful where you stand and make sure the brake is set if you ever jumper the starter relay posts. This bypasses all safety switches!
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:57 PM   #15
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Yes... here I go re-awakening this thread. I've finally had time to yank the tranny pan and replace the transmission range censor-- and the filter, fluid and temp sensor while I was in there. ...and to eyeball the transmission for the first time in my ownership. Looks pretty clean and good.

But... it did nothing to solve the problem. Still P0706, P0707 and P1702 codes.

I understand that the fan clutch shares the same circuit as the TRS. So, I disconnected the only fan related connection easily viewed at the top near the shroud. With that disconnected I also get a P0480 error code. But also still get the TRS codes. I am thinking the Fan control circuit is different than the fan clutch circuit so I have not truly ruled that out.

I've been chasing coolant issues for ever... and every time I blow a coolant fitting or hose, it nukes the fan clutch. I'm on the third fan clutch in 3 years. And... I blew a coolant fitting a few months before I got those TRS codes. I only now put that together.

I have a 7.3 mechanical cooling clutch fan conversion and water pump sitting on the shelf. So it might just be time to tear into the front end, do those and eliminate the fan clutch circuit as a cause for the TRS errors?

Also, I guess I need to check the major engine harness plugs (those with screws), where are those? And then the PCM is next to troubleshoot?

Thanks for any thoughts.

2005 6.0
166k miles
GTRV conversion
Salem-Kroger 4x4
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Old 02-13-2022, 06:40 PM   #16
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Have you checked the plug that connects the TRS to the wiring harness? All pins clean and corrosion free? All ground straps good?
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Old 02-13-2022, 06:43 PM   #17
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Thanks for the reply arctic! Yes, those were my first checks! I'll recheck now that the TRS has been replaced. I have some hints that my 1st battery terminal connection might have been loose prior to the original failure. So, I've gone through most connections I know how to find to tighten.
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Old 02-21-2022, 02:57 PM   #18
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Transmission

Hi,
I had problems with the transmission. The overdrive light on the shift handle started blinking and it was throwing range sensor, temp sensor, and misc. random codes. It was not the PCM. My transmission has an internal wiring harness which turned out to be the problem. It seems that over time enough gunk can foul the connections. Could be an external wiring harness or the connection from the external to internal wiring harness.

I have been told that using the wrong or a mix of coolant can cause seals to erode. Also I had very high oil temps despite having the oil cooler replaced. I have heard that the recommended ford coolant has silica in it that gums up the oil cooler. I did a complete flush with Cummins Restore and Cummins Restore plus. And refilled with CAT ELC coolant. That seems to have solved the problem. I can detail that process if you feel you want to take it on.

BTW the wiring harness connection to the FICM are very easy to break.
Good luck. Feel free to ask about any of this.
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