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Old 06-08-2019, 11:59 AM   #11
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If you had two codes, one of them was almost certainly the specific cylinder.

In my experience, on the v10, when I cleared the codes, I'd get a P0300 code first, and then eventually one two three specific ones, generally for the failing one as well as ones close to it (in firing order).

I'd just replace all the old coils, in fact I did on my v10 a year and a half ago, but I don't know your financial situation. That said, if you shop around for a good deal on the right ones on-line it's not that bad either.

If you haven't seen this in other threads, make sure all the plug clips are working and either replace broken ones or secure them with zip ties.

At least Volvo indicates swapping all the coils when one goes bad. And while doing this at the dealer is a little pricey, it's nice for it to be a one-time deal. I had a co-worker with a Expedition that went through it one coil at a time and kept bringing it to a shop for them, which seemed like a huge waste of time.

Depending on how you serviced those Toyotas, you might have had a coil swap as part of one of the larger services. Four cheap coils might not have been noticeable in the bill. They'll likely have been
tested as part of a mileage or time based plug change.

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Old 06-11-2019, 03:54 PM   #12
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Without offense this thread is spinning a bit out of control regarding COP's--when or why to change them, what brand and yada yada yada. Here's my thoughts and/or actual experiences with them......

-Changing them all because one has failed--regardless of mileage--is a waste of money. There's no guarantee this step alone will prevent or significantly delay failures in the future. FWIW I am driving a 2000 E250 as a daily driver with 285K miles with at least 6 or the OEM COP's as installed from the factory. To me that says age or mileage alone are not indicators of a COP's impending failure.

OTOH a 2003 I use as a work truck has had four of its OEM COP's changed during a span 94K miles and 5.5 years.

-Brand of COP is very important, the cheaper so-called aftermarket or off-name brands seeming to fail more often or quicker than Motorcraft or the commonly highly touted Denso brand. I've had my own experiences with this too---a brand called Granateli I had installed failed one just a month old, another within a few months after that one. I re-installed the original OEM COP's, those now in the 2000 E250 I mention above.

-Learning to do this DIY is the best practice IMHO. Along with even a cheap OBD-II scanner and remarkably few tools (easily stowable) you're not subject to the highway robbery changed by some shops for what is a 30 minute job even for a first timer.

The average DIY'er can do a few things when changing plugs to greatly reduce COP issues. Things like inspecting the rubber boots and changing those if they look suspect, using little dabs of dielectric grease to enhance sealing of the boots to the spark plug porcelain shell go a long way towards extending COP life. (This allows 100% of the electrical discharge from the COP to reach the spark plug rather than it bleeding off as a shorted circuit to the engine block if/when the boot fails. A somewhat lower operating temperature of the COP is at work here.)

-COPs DO NOT fail all at one time----I've NEVER seen or read of this anywhere. New parts are just as prone to premature failure as an aged part, especially COP's in this day and time---they're NOT made as good as they once were.

There's no logical reason to pre-emptively change all COP's due one failure.

Doing a bit of on-line shopping for Motorcraft DG-508 should result in a per part cost just under $27 each so if you ignore advice to not change them "just because" at that price its not a horrible cost. Learning to diagnose and change these yourself is another huge savings AND imparts a large sense of confidence a failed COP won't derail a trip or cost you a fortune by some out-of-town scheister with a wrench.

I hope this bit of advise helps one or two here---I hate seeing people waste money or spend it unwisely.

All this carries the caveat YMMV---but I do stand by it all.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:57 PM   #13
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I’m with JWA all the way.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
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...but I do stand by it all.
If you're standin', you ain't drivin'. Are you broke down?



Actually I agree 100% with every point you made. Preach it brother!
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Old 06-13-2019, 12:37 PM   #15
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That wraps it up!


Thanks to all of you for your insights!

I'm going to buy a couple spare Motorcraft coils and add them to my onboard spare parts... I rarely drive the vehicle less than 4 hours from home and prefer not to be at the mercy of the local repair shops when I really need the van operational.

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Old 06-13-2019, 06:47 PM   #16
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At 115,000 on my V10, one of coils quit, so I just had it replaced. Shortly after that, another one quit, so I did them all then. Now at 155,000 I haven't had any issues since then.
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Old 06-14-2019, 04:36 AM   #17
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This is by far the best price I've ever seen on Motorcraft COP's---I bought like 16 or so of them recently: https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-DG...7XZ4DGJ1G0JGCP

I'll use them as stocking stuffers maybe---all my female buddies will LOVE 'em.
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Old 06-14-2019, 09:57 AM   #18
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Agree with JWA comments. He summarized hours of reading threads on ford-trucks.com nicely.

To the original question, almost any decent code reader will work, this $60 one is quite capable.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-A...omotive&sr=1-3


The plug in $15 obd2 torque cell phone readers are supposed to work, but are very fiddly...
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Old 06-15-2019, 04:45 AM   #19
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Quote:
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Agree with JWA comments. He summarized hours of reading threads on ford-trucks.com nicely.

To the original question, almost any decent code reader will work, this $60 one is quite capable.
https://www.amazon.com/Autel-AL519-A...omotive&sr=1-3


The plug in $15 obd2 torque cell phone readers are supposed to work, but are very fiddly...
Thanks---many of us have already "been there, done that" and what I shared is just that experience---hoping only to save others money and aggravation should a failed COP ever befall them anywhere.

The Autel scanner link is a very capable and somewhat better device to own, tuck it away in the center console or under a seat for that matter. It not only reads codes but will cancel them after a repair---important aspects in any scanner.

There have been mixed reviews on the cell phone readers----with the low cost of many hard wired OBD-II scanners those seem the better choice, IMHO only perhaps.
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Old 06-15-2019, 05:30 PM   #20
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Agree, JWA, I mentioned the cell phone readers as being fiddly. Mode 6 data (misfire codes) is really a challenge for them, and it is difficult to tell if you are getting the actual data or the test is "incomplete", so standard OBD scanners are far more positive. When dealing with diagnostics having a tool simplify the task is really what you want...The Bluetooth readers can be great for general info but there is a learning curve. I carry both, but find myself using the Autel....
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