TrueTrack vs E-Locker vs ARB for snow or sand

[h.grenade]

I have read a few threads on here and watched a few YT videos about the difference but I have to say I am more confused now than when I started. I have heard some people say that in snow when LSD does get traction in patchy conditions (most local road/highway snow driving) it grabs and can "throw" the vehicle. They say that selectable locked is the best.

Then I have heard other people say the exact opposite. TrueTrack is amazing. But thats on a 4WD while snow wheeling.

The other consideration is install cost and availability. In a video about lockers Jeremy at WeldTec said that only the ARB fits E350 applications. I assume he means that it is plug and play. Other options is possible but the costs will add up??

I have a 2011 15 passenger with RSC and TC. Its a 3.73 gear ratio and I would assume a semi float axle. Is there somewhere I can find this info by looking up the VIN?

I don't plan to hardcore offroad the van, just sand at the beach in PNW and maybe Baja. I would like to have improved snow driving without getting out to put chains on. I drive it around town in the winter and it does pretty good already but if there is any slope at all the back tire will just spin.

Any feedback or experiences would be really helpful. Thanks!

[Lilnuts2]

If your rear drums don't have a "Hub" that sticks out about 5" you have a semi float. A rear locker in a 2 wheel drive van in the snow can be very helpful. If you have a 4x4 van, on snowy city roads 4HI no locker workers the best. If your offroad in 2' of snow, lockers all the way around is the best. For me selectable lockers make the most all around sense.

[carringb]

Your 2011 does have a semi-float, 35-spline axle.

I personally prefer Limited Slip on snowy roads. I find it less likely to "walk" to the downside of a side slope. An axle that is fully locked will have a tendency to do just that, but driving unlocked can mean not going anywhere.

But for deep snow, then a locker will work better, because if one tire doesn't have any traction at all, limited slip may not have enough torque to even allow it to engage. That said... traction control will almost completely mitigate this since it'll brake the spinning tire, which will then cause enough to torque to react the gizmos in the diff to cause them to send power to the other side.

[1der]

As Lilnuts2 said - you have to look at the rear axle center of the wheel . The full float i'll have a hub that sticks out with eight bolts holding a cover plate. A semi gloat will have a shallow casting with no bolts. Visual is the only reliable way of knowing if you have a FF or SF axle.



On the driver door pillar is a sticker with lots of information and codes for paint, interior, etc., one of them is an axle code. You can do search w that code to determine what axle ratio (and if LSD) the van was built with.
Link to good explanation resource:

https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-...-door-sticker/

We do lots of winter sports stuff. For us with 4WD, the rear LSD and a selectable locker up front has been a great combination. If we were 100% sand, mud , rock then lockers front and rear would be my choice.

[deserteagle56]

ARBs in my van front and rear for the last 15 years. Haven't had to use them often but when I did they made the difference between being really stuck and just driving through the obstacle. Actually, I've rarely used the front locker...just engaging the rear one makes a huge difference when you're in a twist and one front tire and the opposite side rear tire are hanging in the air. My ARBs have been trouble free.

But as others have mentioned, on a slick road having the rear wheels locked together can result in loss of control when the wheels spin.

[h.grenade]

Thanks for the info. It sounds like most people are saying LSD for snowy roads. Locker for everything else including off road and snow. I guess the final decision will come down to 4WD. If I stay 2WD a locker would probably be my preference, but if I go 4WD then LSD might be a better cheaper option.

My axle code is 34 but the only info I can find is 3.73 Econoline (which I already know) - it doesn't tell me the make, model, size, spline, etc. I am trying to figure out what will fit. Ford had so many different variables. 8.8", 9.75", 10.5"??

I should be able to find a yukon or Ford OEM LSD. Maybe even an e-locker from Yukon or Ford.

[Lilnuts2]

If your thinking about going to a 4x4, consider a Sterling rear axle with a factory e-locker. Lots of them out there, pretty easy to connect and you will have all factory parts with a selective locker. This is even more beneficial if you have a semi float Dana axle now, is a much stronger axle, and you could change your gearing if you wanted to.

[E-350]

Can’t really comment from a technical side/ comparison, but adding my thoughts:
Have 5.4l 2WD Full Float with the Weldtec system, 35’s and also wanted a locker as safety.

I chose an ARB locker.
Main reason: I needed a compressor anyways, ARB is far from bad quality and I read occasionally e locker don’t always jump in.
I turn my ARB on/ off whenever I want and have the twin compressor to air up.

[h.grenade]

I trying not to spend more $$ Lilnuts2! haha but yeah that sounds rad.

@E-350 - Yeah I was leaning towards ARB for the same reason, but I was concerned that it might not be that helpful in snowy road conditions. I do have TC, so the goal really is to get moving when the tire just wants to spin and TC does nothing.

[h.grenade]

Update: I just got off the phone with West Coast Differential. Using the code off of the diff he was able to determine that it is a...

Dana 60 Semi Float, 35 Spline

which means there is only one choice, an ARB RD169 air-locker. I guess that makes it easier haha I just wanted to post it here in case anyone else is in the same situation.