TWOLOST: My own trip with the 6.0L PSD (2007) - Page 4

arctictraveller · 11-04-2020, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twolost

Thanks much marret (Chris)! I want to go back to the Gravel Travel route (parts of it) with my family. We wont be in such a dang hurry this next time.

I have zero 6.0 experience, but years of diesel experience in general (chief engineer aboard ships) Rarely did I experience a failure of internal rotating parts no matter the number of hours. As they began to accumulate high hours they would get hard to start (low compression), burn oil (rings and valve seals) and low oil pressure (worn bearings) but rarely would one stop running. I even had one that dropped a valve and stuck it through the piston, but it continued running for quite a while until it was brought to my attention. It was usually the bolted on stuff that caused issues. I wouldn't be overly concerned about a 200K mile motors internal parts (assuming regular maintenance) as I haven't heard of any regular 6.0 failures of rotating parts.

As for the Gravel Travel route, I hope to run it to the East coast once this stupid pandemic is over and they open the boarder again. I was planning to do it this last summer, but instead stayed home and spent ungodly amounts of money on upgrades to my van. The upside to home quarantining was that I spent a few hours every day on van projects, and changed out pretty much everything under the van subject to wear. The 5.4 has 180K with very few issues, fingers crossed.

carringb · 11-04-2020, 10:31 AM

I agree that a sub-100k 6.0 should not have any meaningful wear and tear.

But... by the time you tear into it and replace the fuel pipes, HPOP (which IMO should be replaced if the sump screen is ruptured), head studs etc.... The labor might be close to a reman with all those upgrades already done...

twolost · 11-04-2020, 10:24 PM

TwoXentrix, none of those updates were on my list (please make it stop).

twolost · 11-04-2020, 10:44 PM

ArcticTraveller, I change the oil more than frequently and also get the oil tested so I can see what particles show up (lead, copper, zinc, etc...) to see if there are any changes to the internals that become a red flag. Nothing yet. The shop did say that they would need to seal the bed plate. While there, they would change the crank bearings and fix the rear main seal. That is if I keep my original motor. If I go with a newly rebuilt Jasper engine, this should already be taken care of.

Wow, to run the Gravel Travel route to the East Coast would be epic! If Banff to Whistler took 14 days (rushed) I would need to retire in order to make it all of the way to the east coast. Worthy challenge.

arctictraveller · 11-05-2020, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twolost

While there, they would change the crank bearings and fix the rear main seal. That is if I keep my original motor. If I go with a newly rebuilt Jasper engine, this should already be taken care of.

Wow, to run the Gravel Travel route to the East Coast would be epic! If Banff to Whistler took 14 days (rushed) I would need to retire in order to make it all of the way to the east coast. Worthy challenge.

Most interesting, I wonder what they are basing their recommendation to replace the main bearings on? What about the rod bearings? With frequent oil changes, oil samples that didn't show any concerns, and proper oil pressure, I'd be inclined to think the bearings are ok, and might even plastaguage them first to determine what the wear really is, but with shop rates as high as they are, it might be a wash. It's just that I hate simply replacing parts based on a hunch, but the shop may have lots of past experience with bearing failures. Never the less, if a reman engine is nearly the same price as a piecemeal, partial rebuild and it has all the upgrades you desire, in addition to a warranty, it probably makes sense. Since I've built several of my own engines, I'd probably take a different approach, but not everyone has that ability or desire.

As for the entire GT route, I expect that there would be several opportunity's to bypass any suspect or impassable sections and it may be better developed and proofed than the Western section was too. I think you were the only one who attempted to do every section, and that's admirable. I on the other hand am not quite so hard core...................

twolost · 01-20-2021, 09:30 PM

Well, my van has "been repaired" and is back home and in my shop now (for the second time in as many weeks). 6.0L PSD engine was replaced lock stock and barrel (@83K miles). Runs nice. Unfortunately, the brakes quit working 160 miles after I picked it up from the repair shop. Luckily, I was only a mile from home when this happened. A quick review did not uncover the root cause. So, my van was towed back to the repair shop for the second time. The repair shop diagnosed and replaced the vacuum pump and the brake booster. Brakes mostly work now. There is still a hummm/vibration that travels up through the pedal and the steering wheel at low speeds that may have something to do with the power steering(?). The vibration is most pronounced while turning the wheel. Still need to diagnose this one. Anyway, many more projects to complete before I can trust taking this vehicle on longer duration trips with the family again but at $35K in engine repairs/defect prevention later we are hopefully headed in the right direction. Not what I factored in when I purchased this vehicle new… but I think that this 6.0 can now be added to the bulletproof community.

Nick · 01-20-2021, 10:31 PM

As another 6.0L nearing 80k mls I read this with great attention and compassion, it’s the brotherhood of PSD owners. :-)

My thinking has been to eventually take it to Bulletproof at Mesa AZ believing that they do that all the time and presumably better at it. Any feedback on work done there? Is the reason I don’t read more about that shop the logistics of moving a broken vehicle there or the quality of their work?

Currently very happy with Capistrano Ford, cost not withstanding, but they are too costly for a full engine removal and workup, hence the desire for feedback on the Mesa AZ shop.

Tks, Nick

unreng · 01-20-2021, 10:38 PM

welcome to the 6.0 rebuilt club!!!

reading the stories about no brakes because of a failed vacuum pump is why we installed hydroboost. its possible to install as a diy, it just takes some time. the end result is much better brakes. and when our vacuum pump fails, we will install an electric vacuum pump from a pickup.
fyi - hydroboost is used on e450's (gvw 14,000 lbs) which makes it ideal for heavy e350's (gvw 10,000+ lbs).

twolost · 01-20-2021, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Nick

As another 6.0L nearing 80k mls I read this with great attention and companions, it’s the brotherhood of PSD owners. :-)

My thinking has been to eventually take it to Bulletproof at Mesa AZ believing that they do that all the time and presumably better at it. Any feedback on work done there? Is the reason I don’t read more about that shop the logistics of moving a broken vehicle there or the quality of their work?

Currently very happy with Capistrano Ford, cost not withstanding, but I seen them as a too costly option for a full engine removal and workup, hence the desire for feedback on the Mesa AZ shop.

Tks, Nick

I communicated with the the BD folks and I may have taken my van to them but the distance was too great with a broken van (I am near Seattle, WA).

twolost · 01-20-2021, 11:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by unreng

welcome to the 6.0 rebuilt club!!!

reading the stories about no brakes because of a failed vacuum pump is why we installed hydroboost. its possible to install as a diy, it just takes some time. the end result is much better brakes. and when our vacuum pump fails, we will install an electric vacuum pump from a pickup.
fyi - hydroboost is used on e450's (gvw 14,000 lbs) which makes it ideal for heavy e350's (gvw 10,000+ lbs).

Thanks for the info