wandering

[jage]

Originally Posted by vandiesel

Can benz spring make a similar setup to a deaver?

I think any good spring shop can. Deaver's advantage is they know the vans-as-SMBs and understand your average overbuilt 1-ton springs are not the answer. Personally I can't even get a fab shop to talk to me about a winch plate, so I'm no good at getting this type of thing built. At the time, I felt Deaver shipping me the "right" springs was the thing to do... in retrospect not so much.

[jage]

Originally Posted by carringb

This is neat:
http://www.benzspring.com/process/

I see a stack of "stock SMB4x4 springs":

[dhally]

Originally Posted by carringb

I would skip the re-arching. They usually return back to a sagging condition.

Check with Benz Springs in Portland. They are a manufacturer, and will make anything you want. They are pretty inexpensive. Many of the trucking companies on the West Coast use them.

We had our rear springs re-arched and leaves added by Benz in 1989. Same problem - we were sagging in back and more to one side. They were able to level it out pretty well. The sagging springs can also affect alignment.

[Lance]

thanks for the warning about re-arching. would you mind giving me your opinion on what improvements I would get from having the springs replaced. The ride feels decent and I don't feel like it's mushy but it makes sense that the van should be level and all. I'm wondering if I will get better control? On an old beast like this I try to make my money spent worthwhile as it wont really increase the value.

[daveb]

Originally Posted by Lance

thanks for the warning about re-arching. would you mind giving me your opinion on what improvements I would get from having the springs replaced. The ride feels decent and I don't feel like it's mushy but it makes sence that the van should be level and all. I'm wondering if I will get better contol? On an old beast like this I try to make my money spent worthwhile as it wont really increase the value.

In my case changing the rear stance did nothing for wandering, but cornering was another thing.

Just a few months off the production line my 06-EB was sagging. SMB added a leaf. Fixed the sag and improved handling but made for a bumpy ride. After that I added air bags which were actually put on for trailering. It didn't seem to change the ride when running 5 lbs in them but adding 50+lbs gave even a rougher ride yet improved cornering slightly more.

Now with the Deaver springs added (no air bags) the level is perfect, the ride is perfect but the cornering is not nearly a good as when it came off the line.

At this point in time I don't know if I want to re-install the air bags or not. Except roadway speed bumps or rough asphalt, the softer Deaver's are mainly worth it for off roading situations. Of course, you never know when you'll run into a rough road or sudden dip in the road.

I'd say go for a good set of springs, but air bags might be a cheaper temp solution, just don't expect a great ride.
Dave

[Pete]

Originally Posted by Lance

just back from checkup, radius rod bushings are bad. they say that could be a big part of my problem. steering box is a little loose and they will tighten it. my van has a spring sag in the rear to the drivers side and lower in back than front. they can re-arch the springs, not sure I want to spend the bucks on that but read on forum it could improve handling?

I checked out my steering box, and can't figure out a way to adjust it, any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

[Ford_6L_E350]

Steering box is not difficult to adjust. It is very difficult to adjust properly.

Without taking it apart, you can adjust the crosshaft end play. The locknut and adjuster are on top of the steering box, directly behind to crosshaft (the steering arm in on the end of the crosshaft). To adjust, you loosen the locknut (actually it is a jamnut) and turn the adjuster. It is hard to see and harder to get to on a van. I can see mine through the wheel well. To adjust it, you tighten the adjuster, lock it in place and measure the amount of force it takes to turn the input shaft. Oh, you need to disconnect the steering wheel and steering linkage to get an accurate reading. And, I forget how many inch-ounces of force it should take to rotate the gears.

If you make it too tight, you can wear out the gears in a couple thousand miles. If it is too loose, you have some freeplay in the steering wheel. And you have to check it throughout the range of travel to ensure you don't have tight spots around the gears.

Mike