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Old 01-04-2009, 12:27 PM   #111
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PatO
As I recollect the block adaptor in the kit I got in 2005 is not an AMSOil adapter but one manufactured by SMB.
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Originally Posted by PatO
This indicates to me the adaptor is designed wrong. It is clearly stamped with arrows and the words IN and OUT and is the reverse of the SMB new routing diagram.
Pat
That’s good information. At least SMB seems up front about the installation being wrong. SMB installed mine before I picked up the van so I could not actually look it over off the vehicle. If the adaptor is engraved with flow directions then it does show that they truly weren’t aware of the change between the 7.3 and 6.0 PSD and at fault. All I could see on mine were arrows with a magic marker pen that mean nothing. I'll have to look closer for the stamps on the block. I assume that by stamp you mean engravings (or similar) because you stated the block was designed wrong. A sticker or painted arrow would not mean too much as an installer could mark it wrong. Maybe mine are covered with dirt or where I can’t see them.

Actually I’m more upset about the filter change and the fact that part stores still reference the Eao26 for the 6.0. I bought a set of extra filters from SMB when the vehicle was new and that’s what I got. I don’t know when the change was made to the Donaldson.
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Originally Posted by PatO

2004 E-Series is the first year 6.0. (I'm on my 3rd turbo how are you guys doing?)
At 42K I have yet to have turbo problems and would like to compare early engine models to the later 06-7 engines. The failing turbo charger problem was the reason I switched to AMSOIL synthetics in the first place and I did the oil swap at 24,000. It seems to me something else is up with all the turbo failures reported or I'm just lucky that mine has not failed yet.

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Originally Posted by PatO
Interesting enough I drove about 50 miles of desert off road (5 hours worth, stop and go, deep sand, hills & mud) and then drove 90 miles home on Wednesday and both filters were only warm to touch when I checked immediately after stopping.
Also I talked with SMB about the restrictor and they said to leave it in. That was last month. Maybe they will change their stance on this new issue. I was told that it would not make that much difference but if it is a temperature regulated device it makes sense to remove it. I also understand that this is AMSOIL recommendation, not SMB’s.
Dave.
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Old 01-04-2009, 04:19 PM   #112
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Amsoil Restrictor Device

This is Jim, the Amsoil Rep again. The restrictor should DEFINITELY be removed because the new filter head does not have it and it does not open fully until your oil reaches 180 degrees. The oil will never reach 180 degrees in a SMB because it is so far away from the engine acting like an oil cooler. Your system will operate much more efficiently without it.
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Old 01-04-2009, 08:17 PM   #113
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Re: Amsoil Restrictor Device

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Originally Posted by jcgreatoil
This is Jim, the Amsoil Rep again. The restrictor should DEFINITELY be removed because the new filter head does not have it and it does not open fully until your oil reaches 180 degrees. The oil will never reach 180 degrees in a SMB because it is so far away from the engine acting like an oil cooler. Your system will operate much more efficiently without it.
Could you provide a few line of instructions on how to do this. Are they behind the Allen head plugs?
Thanks.
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Old 01-04-2009, 09:28 PM   #114
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Re: Amsoil Restrictor Device

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcgreatoil
This is Jim, the Amsoil Rep again. The restrictor should DEFINITELY be removed because the new filter head does not have it and it does not open fully until your oil reaches 180 degrees. The oil will never reach 180 degrees in a SMB because it is so far away from the engine acting like an oil cooler. Your system will operate much more efficiently without it.
Thanks Jim. I planned to have SMB remove it when I was there last but they were not sure about it. I just change the oil but forgot to pull the SOB out. I'll get to it soon. Can you explain what will happen without draining the oil. That would help. Will I have to wait until the next change?
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Old 01-05-2009, 09:39 AM   #115
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New question, same topic.

With the less restrictive filter (Donaldson), and with removing the filter head restrictor assembly, can the engine be expected to run noticeably cooler? Aside from lubrication, one of the primary purposes of engine oil is cooling of the engine block. Seems to me if the engine oil flow is improved, the engine should run cooler.


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Old 01-12-2009, 11:08 PM   #116
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Re: Amsoil Restrictor Device

Quote:
Originally Posted by jcgreatoil
This is Jim, the Amsoil Rep again. The restrictor should DEFINITELY be removed because the new filter head does not have it and it does not open fully until your oil reaches 180 degrees. The oil will never reach 180 degrees in a SMB because it is so far away from the engine acting like an oil cooler. Your system will operate much more efficiently without it.
I would like to start with a warning that for some unknown period of time I have not been getting any circulation through my bypass system. You should check yours if you have not corrected the hose routing yet. When I first became aware of these topics through the SMB email and then this forum I verified my hose arrangement. At that time I started up the engine and ran it for 10 minutes or so until the temp gauge was heading up to normal op. I checked and both filters were cold as were the hoses. I mentioned that in a early posting. On Dec 31 I returned from a 5 day camping trip and after running the engine most of that day and immediately after pulling in the driveway both filters were barely warm. I decided then that I needed to pull the system and correct the hose arrangement. I have 4500 miles on the filters and oil and initially was going to take the SMB recommendation to take care of it at the next filter change (15K). I know my previous filters ran hot because I have a sampling petcock on the filter head and had to be careful taking samples. A barely warm filter can only mean flow was severely restricted. I removed the filter head so I could consider removing the restrictor valve. I did learn something I didn't know before. Normally oil enters the filter from the outer ports and is pushed to the center. The spin-on thread port is the oil return. My installation instruction is for the BMK 16. The AMSOil site no longer lists that model but when you pull up the instruction for a BMK(?)-26 model you get the same instructions. Here are some observations that anyone is welcome to comment on.
1. The larger bypass filter is closest to the inlet and outlet port. There is NO temperature regulation mechanism in the filter head. The bypass filter is subject to full flow / pressure at all times. The filter itself would have to contain the temperature based flow control if it exists at all.
2. The full flow filter is farthest from the inlet / outlet. There is a spring loaded, tapered end, cylindrical restrictor valve in the bore on the inlet to the filter. The bore diameter is about 5/8 inch. The valve body has a 5/16 hole drilled through it. Oil pressure will push the valve open. At some point in its travel it opens the inlet side to full flow. To me this would cause the valve to seek and reach an equilibrium based on pressure not temperature. Hotter oil might increase the flow through the center bore but I'm not sure how this would effect valve position and the throttling effect. Intuitively I would think colder oil would hold it open farther.
3. With a reverse supply line connection the restrictor valve is non functional. It will never open as oil pressure is holding it shut. You are only getting 25% flow at all times through the full flow filter. This is based on the fact that the 5/16 hole through the center of the valve is 25% of the overall area of the outer diameter.
4. I do not understand why my filters never warmed up even after 150 miles unless there is some type of backflow prevented in the oil filter or why my other filter installations seemed to run normally (hot). The restrictor valve has no direct effect on the bypass filter.
5. I left the restrictor valve out when I reassembled it. I verified my SMB provided block adapter did shoot oil out of the return hose. I swapped my connections at the filter block. I installed new filters (AO-26 until I can get the new recommended one). The filters now start warming up immediately. I drove 10 miles and now you can not hold you hand against either of them as they are so hot. To me they seem to warm up equally.
6. I had to add 2 quarts of new oil but I plan to get an oil analysis before I put any more miles on it and it gets anymore normal filtering. I have two previous analyses to compare against.
7. I wonder if the SMB recommendation and oil testing, parameter testing was based on the newer filter head with out the restrictor.

8. CHECK YOUR FILTERS FOR FLOW if you have the reverse connection and older filter head.
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:57 AM   #117
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PatO,

So your non-flow by-pass filter problem was when the lines were incorrectly attached (reversed)?

I think that is what I expected from the previous discussions.
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Old 01-13-2009, 09:57 AM   #118
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Who all got an email from SMB on this topic?

I got nothing.
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Old 01-13-2009, 10:27 AM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Greg In Austin
Who all got an email from SMB on this topic?

I got nothing.
Nothing here, but then again, I'm the second owner of the SMB, so I may not be on a proper notification list, if there is such an animal.


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Old 01-13-2009, 02:09 PM   #120
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I'm the original owner, purchased in October 2007, and never received anything.
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