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Old 03-06-2019, 02:50 PM   #11
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Those sure a bad looking seals. Unless those calipers had been sitting on the shelf for a few year, I'd suspect inferior parts being used for the rebuilds.
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Old 03-06-2019, 05:13 PM   #12
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I've experiences the same failure mode, but my calipers returned to the proper behavior after swapping pins and boots. I did clean up the pin bores very carefully when I did the swap.

Ford went through a couple of revisions of the slide pins on some of their calipers. The failure mode is a caliper that doesn't fully re-open on one side. However that failure doesn't happen for a long time. I would expect even an older pin design would be fine for quite a few years if you put in a new pin.

And yes, those piston seals look less than factory fresh.
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Old 03-06-2019, 07:55 PM   #13
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I doubt the slide pins were the issue since the boots were new, they still had grease on them and the calipers moved freely before disassembly. The piston seals sure didn't look like that when I installed them, I suspect they were pushed out somewhere down the road. My luck with remanufactured parts hasn't been good, but it's darn near impossible to find new parts any more. Anyway, tomorrow I'm getting two new calipers, pads and hoses. Hopefully, the third time is the charm.
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Old 03-07-2019, 09:40 PM   #14
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Today I got all new parts, including new hoses. Yesterday when I ordered the calipers, I asked if any painted or plated ones were available to avoid the rust issues. He said yes, so today I picked when I picked them up, we opened the first box and saw a nicely painted and plated caliper. When I got home and unboxed them both, I discovered one side (the passenger) was raw steel. Interestingly, the same thing happened last time around, only in that case one was galvanized while the passenger side was raw. Both calipers are identical except for the location of the bleeder, and the part number. It looks like one part number specifys some type of corrosion resistant coating while the other number doesn't. Or, perhaps they come from different factory's? Never the less, hopefully new hoses will solve this problem once and for all. It's too cold to work outside sitting on the ground right now, so it will be a few days before I finish this one.
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Old 03-08-2019, 08:33 PM   #15
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Good luck! Also, thereís one thing that would definitely be crossed off the list of possible culprits, and that would be of this particular van sitting idle!
I would think the hoses are the culprit too, no stainless ones to be found? I had a shop up in Loveland, tubes ní hoses, fab up some new stainless ones for me a few years ago.
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Old 03-08-2019, 10:56 PM   #16
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Rick, did you notice any performance improvement with the stainless hoses?
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Old 03-11-2019, 07:44 PM   #17
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Itís been a while but I think yes, the brake feel improved, hard to say definitively as Iím pretty sure my old lines were still in decent shape, just a preemptive move on my part when some other items were being upgraded. If in fact the lines were the culprit, Iím sure the regular replacement ones you got will be fine and a big improvement.
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:52 AM   #18
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I have an older E-350 with the rear drum brakes. An intermittently binding parking brake cable can really smoke the rear drums. I am unfamiliar with the rear disc setup.
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Old 03-14-2019, 10:17 PM   #19
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I don't know if you experienced this but could you feel your back brakes lock up or drag?


I once had a 67 Mustang with rear drum brakes that would lock up and release when I smashed on the brake pedal. Like you, I went through replacing EVERYTHING on the rear brakes even as far as the dual reservoir master cylinder.


The eventual culprit was the "rebuilt" brake power booster. The rod that connected the brake pedal to the booster was cracked inside of the booster. Luckily for me it didn't completely break and fail.


Good luck!
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Old 03-14-2019, 11:30 PM   #20
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I'm slowly making progress on getting things back together. I'm not in any hurry though, so it's taking longer than normal, but today I got all the new hoses installed and one caliper. Once drained, I blew some low pressure air through each end of the hoses and found air going towards the caliper seemed to flow freely, but reversing the flow, it didn't seem to be free flowing. That could be partially due to the fact that it's hard to get a good seal on the end with the manifold block, but I think you guys nailed the problem, hoses that don't flow backwards. I'll have it back together in a day or two, but I won't know if the problem has been solved for a few thousand miles. Meanwhile, the new (re-manufactured) drivers side caliper has one seal that's not fully seated and seems slightly crooked. I tried to gently seat it, but no dice. I don't know if it's a problem, but none of the other calipers look like this, and I've had plenty of seal problems already. I might just take it back. So, thanks to all who had suggestions, I think the third time is going to be a winner for this project.
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