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Old 08-08-2020, 10:18 PM   #11
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Ucsundog,

You might want to check with Killdevil Diesel. I put a set of their o-ringed heads on and have been pleased. They also have aluminum heads. If I last recall you can get a complete rebuild engine incl heads starting at about $7900. Killdevildiesel.com they also have aluminum heads. They might be the supplier to dynamic diesel. Check em out.
If you want to do it yourself I have the engine lift bracket you can borrow.
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Old 08-09-2020, 09:26 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucsundog View Post
What's already been done:
1. BPF FICM
2. BPF Water cooler & New Thermostat
3. Aluminum radiator
4. Switch override for Manual Fan Clutch
5. Bluespring Mod
6. New Exhaust
7. Magtec Transmission Pan
8. FICM Tune/Atlas Tune
9. XDP Extreme Starter
10. Replaced Vacuum Brake Pump(3 years ago)

What's next TO BE DONE:
1. 6.0L Powerstroke Upgraded STC Fitting, IPR valve kit
2. 6.0L Powerstroke Glow Plug Kit
3. 5R110W Powerstroke Transmission Saver Plug
https://www.accuratediesel.com/shop/273.html
4. IPR valve
5. ICP CONNECTOR
6. ICP SENSOR
7. Ford High Pressure Oil Pump Filter Screen
8. ProSource Diesel Updated Engine Oil Stand Pipe + Dummy Plug Kit
9. Turbo Oil Feed Tube, Ford 6.0L Diesel
10. BPD EGR cooler
11. Ford OEM Oil Cooler or BPD Oil Cooler
12. 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel ALUMINUM O-ringed Cylinder Heads DX SERIES $3000 https://dynamicdiesel60.com/product/...ads-dx-series/
13. 6.0L Powerstroke Diesel Over Haul Kit Stage 1 $2300 https://dynamicdiesel60.com/product/...l-kit-stage-1/
14. Engine Wiring Harness
15. Ficm Wiring harness << engine + FICM are one piece on vans
16. arp studs $1000
17. Engine Block - Machining ???
18. New Titan Turbo $1600
https://dynamicdiesel60.com/product/...l-powerstroke/
19. Tru-Cool Max.
https://trucool.com/products/tru-cool-max
20. Steering Box
https://redheadsteeringgears.com/pro...steering-gear/
21. Replace Tensioner
22. Replace Pullies
23 Heavy duty Alternator
https://dynamicdiesel60.com/product/...ternator-8478/
With this list, I'd make the jump to a stage 1 [$9,500] or 2 [$10,900] KDD long block with aluminum ported heads = https://killdevildiesel.com/collecti...32004044816484
DDPM offers a stage 1 [$10,600 w/ extras] or 2 [$12,300 w/extras] long block (no core charge+freight included) = https://dynamicdiesel60.com/product/...ngine-stage-2/
then add an ODAWG S2R intake $900 = https://www.odawgsdiesel.com/product/s2r6-0/
then some exhaust manifolds $600 = https://us.bddiesel.com/products/6-0...30073648644160
stainless up pipes? ceramic coated? wrapped? = https://www.dieselsite.com/2003-2007...p-pipekit.aspx
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...-ii-14819.html
torque converter $900 = https://www.atsdiesel.com/ats2/produ...que-Converters
a fully custom tune for ECM+FICM $500+ = https://sctflash.com/products/sct-category-tuners/sctx4
https://www.innovativediesel.com/inn...-tune-package/
https://www.ghtuning.com/product-cat...0-powerstroke/
upsize the exhaust $500+ = 4" from turbo or 4" from downpipe.
aluminum radiator $330= https://shop.performanceradiator.com...roduct_id=5296
alternator $450 = https://www.nationsstarteralternator...8307ln-275.htm
upgrade the alternator cabling = custom
Edge CTS3 + fuel pressure sensor + billet fuel cap + EGT + etc. $600+ = https://edgeproducts.com/insight-cts...gauge-monitor/
Air filter = ?? zylstra
Engine cover insulation = https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...use-24813.html
custom bumper deflector = https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...hool-7707.html
hood louvers if you feel so inclined = https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...eat-13247.html
snow plow fan clutch = https://www.powerstroke.org/threads/...clutch.742833/
Hydroboost using all ford parts or stainless braided PTFE = https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...akes-4060.html
6.7 starter = https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-6-0-a-11.html
upgrade the stock positive battery + starter cables if you feel so inclined = custom

Upgrade the fuel system to a return-style...but unsure how much is C_A_R_B approved in Kali (or anything for that matter)?!?

The manufacturers websites are provided...cheaper prices can be found.
And I included parts that may already be installed to provide links.

If you can't remove the engine yourself, it's ~40-45 hours of labor.
There are several shops in so-Cal that specialize in 6.0's in vans. I would drive there = https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?m...ty&usp=sharing

We had a Dee-sill DR. (google diesel-nine-one-one-[in numbers].com ...remove the dashes) engine installed about a year ago and would never recommend that shop...EVER! or c__h_o__a_t__e performance [remove the underscores]. He's "BIG" on f-book.
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Old 08-09-2020, 11:59 AM   #13
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FWIW: looked into the Snow Plow clutch a couple years ago (had to call several different people with Ford, since many are not very familiar with the package) and was ultimately told it would not do any good to install it unless the engine computer had the snow plow package programmed into it as well (evidently the programming parameters are different). That's when I just had 5-Star tune reprogram a couple of my tunes to engage the fan earlier - this has been very effective.
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Old 08-09-2020, 12:53 PM   #14
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Your and My dissatisfaction with Stealerships and Repair shops is precisely the reason I decided to tackle the job myself. I realize that most SMB owners don't have the facilities or expertise to do this but Hey it's just Nuts and Bolts. I was able to have help from a friend that is a Ford Mastertech that was there to advise on reassembling the engine. I was also able to borrow the Ford Engine Lifting Bracket so as to make a Copy. ( available to forum members that wish to take on this project ) In the end 40-45 hrs Labor @ $125hr is a pile of dinero. I also have the satisfaction of knowing I didn't skip something that may come back to haunt me. I realize that there are a lot of SMB members that don't have the Time, Expertise or facilities or THE DESIRE to perform such a task, Hey Its just Nuts and Bolts. I'm very glad I did it and learned a lot. I think you might want to be cautious on some of the non CARB improvements. It might come back to bite you. That is going be one Killer motor when you are finished.
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Old 08-09-2020, 06:17 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbonesclimber View Post
Your and My dissatisfaction with Stealerships and Repair shops is precisely the reason I decided to tackle the job myself. I realize that most SMB owners don't have the facilities or expertise to do this but Hey it's just Nuts and Bolts. I was able to have help from a friend that is a Ford Mastertech that was there to advise on reassembling the engine. I was also able to borrow the Ford Engine Lifting Bracket so as to make a Copy. ( available to forum members that wish to take on this project ) In the end 40-45 hrs Labor @ $125hr is a pile of dinero. I also have the satisfaction of knowing I didn't skip something that may come back to haunt me. I realize that there are a lot of SMB members that don't have the Time, Expertise or facilities or THE DESIRE to perform such a task, Hey Its just Nuts and Bolts. I'm very glad I did it and learned a lot. I think you might want to be cautious on some of the non CARB improvements. It might come back to bite you. That is going be one Killer motor when you are finished.

You definitely got my attention! Btw I ended up buying all the Ford Tech manuals to have that ability to wrench on my own engine. Maybe this is the time? Did you blog your journey into doing this massive job? Would love to read about it.
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Old 08-09-2020, 06:58 PM   #16
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The Ford Tech manuals are pretty much on. There are a few things that they missed that makes it easier. I did not blog it as my computer skills are lacking. I do have a list of what you have to take off in sequence. If you skip following it in reverse it makes thing worse, Ask me how I know. If you get a long block you are OK but if you have do do any work on the engine while it is out without the rotating engine stand you will hate yourself. I was able to borrow the Ford one. Again, it's just Bolts and Nuts. I could probably get the motor out in two days of just slow but steady dissassembly. It takes longer to get it back in just because you WANT to do everything right. Also if you increase the size of the alternator it makes a couple things more difficult. It is really nice to see the motor on a stand dissembled.
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Old 08-09-2020, 10:27 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbonesclimber View Post
The Ford Tech manuals are pretty much on. There are a few things that they missed that makes it easier. I did not blog it as my computer skills are lacking. I do have a list of what you have to take off in sequence. If you skip following it in reverse it makes thing worse, Ask me how I know. If you get a long block you are OK but if you have do do any work on the engine while it is out without the rotating engine stand you will hate yourself. I was able to borrow the Ford one. Again, it's just Bolts and Nuts. I could probably get the motor out in two days of just slow but steady dissassembly. It takes longer to get it back in just because you WANT to do everything right. Also if you increase the size of the alternator it makes a couple things more difficult. It is really nice to see the motor on a stand dissembled.
You make it sound easy Would you mind sharing the sequence? I've just been watching youtube vids, reading manuals, and anything else I can get on to better understand the engine. Whether I attempt to do this myself or hire someone, I still want to learn about it.

Btw, which head did you get?
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Old 08-10-2020, 10:32 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by ucsundog View Post
You make it sound easy Would you mind sharing the sequence? I've just been watching youtube vids, reading manuals, and anything else I can get on to better understand the engine. Whether I attempt to do this myself or hire someone, I still want to learn about it.

Btw, which head did you get?

quote from obc [oldbonesclimber] in post #11:
"You might want to check with Killdevil Diesel. I put a set of their o-ringed heads on and have been pleased. They also have aluminum heads. If I last recall you can get a complete rebuild engine incl heads starting at about $7900. Killdevildiesel.com they also have aluminum heads. They might be the supplier to dynamic diesel. Check em out.
If you want to do it yourself I have the engine lift bracket you can borrow"


I wish I had obc's shop and time to tackle an engine removal + install. Everything on a van engine requires patience...and small hands.
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Old 08-10-2020, 11:36 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by unreng View Post
quote from obc [oldbonesclimber] in post #11:
"You might want to check with Killdevil Diesel. I put a set of their o-ringed heads on and have been pleased. They also have aluminum heads. If I last recall you can get a complete rebuild engine incl heads starting at about $7900. Killdevildiesel.com they also have aluminum heads. They might be the supplier to dynamic diesel. Check em out.
If you want to do it yourself I have the engine lift bracket you can borrow"


I wish I had obc's shop and time to tackle an engine removal + install. Everything on a van engine requires patience...and small hands.
Thanks! I've decided that I'm going to get a Long Block and it's the b/w KDD and J&K Engines with a KC 1.5 Turbo. I've decided NOT to get the ALuminum Heads but at least the O-ringed heads. I'm deciding b/w these two options:

KDD Stage1:
https://killdevildiesel.com/collecti...32004044095588

or
JandK Stage 2:
https://jandkengineremanufacturing.c...diesel-engines

Also...

Do you think getting the Bulletproof Oil cooler is a better option or using the new Ford OEM Oil cooler?

Thoughts on this Transmission cooler:
https://www.atsdiesel.com/ats2/produ...p?p=3109003000
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Old 08-10-2020, 12:18 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ucsundog View Post
Thanks! I've decided that I'm going to get a Long Block and it's the b/w KDD and J&K Engines with a KC 1.5 Turbo. I've decided NOT to get the ALuminum Heads but at least the O-ringed heads. I'm deciding b/w these two options:

KDD Stage1:
https://killdevildiesel.com/collecti...32004044095588

or
JandK Stage 2:
https://jandkengineremanufacturing.c...diesel-engines

Also...

Do you think getting the Bulletproof Oil cooler is a better option or using the new Ford OEM Oil cooler?

Thoughts on this Transmission cooler:
https://www.atsdiesel.com/ats2/produ...p?p=3109003000
At first glance it appears the J&K is a standard reman like you'd get from Jasper whereas the KD is a performance oriented rebuild and the price reflects that. I'd also see how long it takes to get one. Another one to look at is Ashland. https://ashevilleengine.com/product-...0-powerstroke/

I've said this before on this forum but personally I think the BPD oil cooler is an overly expensive solution in search of a problem. The problem was Ford Gold coolant, lack of a coolant filter, leftover casting sand, silicate sludge, etc. With a proper coolant filter and a proper ELC coolant the oil cooler clogging>EGR cooler rupture>head gasket lifting scenario is a non-issue. And that all goes out the window anyway with a new engine. Just do a $350 OEM oil cooler and skip the $3000 BPD oil cooler unless you are continuously towing across Death Valley. Could always do it later if your worried about your deltas.

My comment about that transmission cooler is where is it going to mount and that it has an electric fan. One more thing to break but some do run them with success. I have the Tru-Cool 40k cooler originally designed for the 7.3 but lots of us have fitted this cooler in a 6.0 with success. It's passive and not electric and 1/3 the cost of the one you listed. However, the fittings on both are 3/8" and the lines and fittings on the 6.0 are 1/2". The down-sizing to 3/8" fittings thru the cooler and flow rate restriction is possibly a concern. I tested the Tru-Cool for pressure drop on the return line and it was a non-issue but I would ask the vendor or on a diesel forum if others have used the cooler with success on the 5R110. My 2 cents.
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