Originally Posted by JWA
If you've not already accomplished this swap strongly consider a new pigtail lead, the one from the wiring harness into the resistor itself. Too often those are nearly impossible to remove from the resistor housing without damage. Plus the age of your van (assuming the resistor/connector are original) makes these parts quite brittle, tend to fall apart in your hand.
Yes, the resistor shorted out and melted to the original pigtail lead.
Completely brittle and disintegrated when trying to take them apart.
That actually made things much easier, as after labeling where each wire went in the old lead, all I had to do was connect them to their corresponding wire on the new lead and bolt it back into place. I saved myself some headache by inspecting the new resistor before sliding it into place. In monkeying around I had inadvertently bent one of the coils of the new resistor over and it was touching the adjacent coil. Easy enough to bend back into place before re-mounting it.
The pan and battery came out and went back in with no troubles.
At this point, the blower motor was working well, but I was still not getting air from the proper vents. I bought 8 feet of vacuum hose and bypassed/spliced from under the hood through the passenger door into the spot in the passenger wheel well indicated in the video above and everything worked fine. Instead of going through the bolt hole, I found a rubber plug at the side of the wheel-well about 18 inches up from the floor that you can see from outside by looking between the open door and door frame. I popped it out, drilled a hole through the center to accommodate my new vacuum tube and popped it back into place. Much cleaner and didn't have to remove the dog-house.
I also took advantage of my fix-it-fit to pull and rebuild the vent to the left of the steering wheel. The tabs that link the vertical and horizontal louvers had popped off. I found one and fabricated the missing one out of a zip tie. Now I have cold air blasting me from the left again!
Also looked up online how to re-program my key fob. Took 4-5 tries but now my doors lock and unlock at the push of a button again.
All in all a very productive weekend. Thanks to all for pointing me in the right direction. Not too difficult and saved me a bunch of money. One of the videos I ran across showed what the dealer goes through to get to that vacuum leak. 6.5 hours of labor and a lot of stuff sitting on the shop floor that had to come out just to get to it...
Edit: Sorry about the orientation of the photos, despite rotating them before uploading they seem to be coming through upside down on preview...