Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 10-11-2021, 11:22 AM   #31
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 38
A short is rare but poor battery lugs and/or bad connections is a more common issue. If you continue to have problems, I'd look closely for any white or green color around the house battery lugs. Inspect the lugs for a loose crimp, clean them and the posts, then reconnect them using electrical connection compound.

I will if I get home soon

Failing intermittent connections can be hard to find. A high load can weld the connection closed making it seem like its working correctly and a light load can be enough to cause a bad connection to open. But nothing is in stone and at times a high load can do the opposite.



If you lose all cab DC power again, start the vehicle and see if power comes back after the separator closes. If it does you may just have an issue with your house battery connection. It doesn't hurt to do a bit of maintenance anyway.

Not sure how to tell if the separator is open or closed

And another troubleshooting rule of thumb, don't think there isn't more than one issue going on at the same time. Sometimes one problem can lead to another and coexist at the same time. Also I'm still a bit baffled about the whining sound.
Hopefully you've taken care of the problem and all is good.
__________________
__________________

ebrogie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2021, 11:23 AM   #32
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 38
I tried to have some answers below in new post
__________________

ebrogie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2021, 01:44 PM   #33
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 38
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ture45711.html

Fuse panel under rear seat not on Wall
Jumpered for one second with small pliers point A. To B. Across this breaker. Most likely means this needs replaced Reset on this breaker had no effect. This was enough to turn circuits back on. I am glad but confused. At least I can lower top now. Any ideas???
ebrogie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-11-2021, 10:14 PM   #34
Site Team
 
daveb's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Turlock Ca
Posts: 10,195
Garage
First off this picture you posted bothers me, as I see a lug that got quite hot.

Can you post a picture of what you put the pliers on?

Are you are calling the surepower separator shown in the one picture a breaker?


When the separator is clicking on and off, did you check to see if the lights go on and off while it's clicking?
Attached Thumbnails
bad connection.jpg   surpower.jpg  
__________________
2006 Ford 6.0PSD EB-50/E-PH SMB 4X4 Rock Crawler Trailer

Sportsmobile 4X4 Adventures..........On and off road adventures
daveb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2021, 03:43 AM   #35
Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Posts: 38
picture you posted bothers me, as I see a lug that got quite hot.

I think that is the problem. Previous owner replaced ProSine twice. Not that area is where I touched. Just moved the wire and it worked once That wire may need replaced that wire showed that melted area before

Can you post a picture of what you put the pliers on?

Where you show the melting is where I touched

Are you are calling the surepower separator shown in the one picture a breaker?


When the separator is clicking on and off, did you check to see if the lights go on and off while it's clicking

I called second picture an isolator or separators


Thanks for all the help
ebrogie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-12-2021, 06:11 AM   #36
Senior Member
 
Scalf77's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 2,002
Agree, the connection to the fuse block looks bad. I assume that is short 8 awg wire from the breaker to the fuse block. That really needs to be pulled off and changed. The terminal on the block needs to be checked, to make sure it is not damaged.

This most likely started with a loose connection that caused arcing and got worse from there.

I would check the voltage of house battery, you could actually do it at the circuit breaker. If the voltage is always good there, I wouldn't even bring the separator into play.

If you don't have tools to fix the wire, let me know. I won't be home until the weekend, but could make one up for you and ship it out. It will be of much better quality than the sportsmobile one. Just let me know how long it is, and confirm it is from breaker to fuse block.

Also unless you disconnect the battery this circuit will be hot, thus be careful. I would take off the breaker side first. It is not impossible to work on, but you have to feel comfortable doing it. Make sure anything downstream of the fuse block is off, pull fuses if you have to.

good luck

-greg
__________________

Scalf77 is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Sportsmobile SIP or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 04:17 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×