Electrical. E350 2006 Ford 6.0. This week I heard about a 4 second whistle

[ebrogie]

A short is rare but poor battery lugs and/or bad connections is a more common issue. If you continue to have problems, I'd look closely for any white or green color around the house battery lugs. Inspect the lugs for a loose crimp, clean them and the posts, then reconnect them using electrical connection compound.

I will if I get home soon

Failing intermittent connections can be hard to find. A high load can weld the connection closed making it seem like its working correctly and a light load can be enough to cause a bad connection to open. But nothing is in stone and at times a high load can do the opposite.



If you lose all cab DC power again, start the vehicle and see if power comes back after the separator closes. If it does you may just have an issue with your house battery connection. It doesn't hurt to do a bit of maintenance anyway.

Not sure how to tell if the separator is open or closed

And another troubleshooting rule of thumb, don't think there isn't more than one issue going on at the same time. Sometimes one problem can lead to another and coexist at the same time. Also I'm still a bit baffled about the whining sound.
Hopefully you've taken care of the problem and all is good.
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[ebrogie]

I tried to have some answers below in new post

[ebrogie]

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ture45711.html

Fuse panel under rear seat not on Wall
Jumpered for one second with small pliers point A. To B. Across this breaker. Most likely means this needs replaced Reset on this breaker had no effect. This was enough to turn circuits back on. I am glad but confused. At least I can lower top now. Any ideas???

[daveb]

First off this picture you posted bothers me, as I see a lug that got quite hot.

Can you post a picture of what you put the pliers on?

Are you are calling the surepower separator shown in the one picture a breaker?


When the separator is clicking on and off, did you check to see if the lights go on and off while it's clicking?

[ebrogie]

picture you posted bothers me, as I see a lug that got quite hot.

I think that is the problem. Previous owner replaced ProSine twice. Not that area is where I touched. Just moved the wire and it worked once That wire may need replaced that wire showed that melted area before

Can you post a picture of what you put the pliers on?

Where you show the melting is where I touched

Are you are calling the surepower separator shown in the one picture a breaker?


When the separator is clicking on and off, did you check to see if the lights go on and off while it's clicking

I called second picture an isolator or separators


Thanks for all the help

[Scalf77]

Agree, the connection to the fuse block looks bad. I assume that is short 8 awg wire from the breaker to the fuse block. That really needs to be pulled off and changed. The terminal on the block needs to be checked, to make sure it is not damaged.

This most likely started with a loose connection that caused arcing and got worse from there.

I would check the voltage of house battery, you could actually do it at the circuit breaker. If the voltage is always good there, I wouldn't even bring the separator into play.

If you don't have tools to fix the wire, let me know. I won't be home until the weekend, but could make one up for you and ship it out. It will be of much better quality than the sportsmobile one. Just let me know how long it is, and confirm it is from breaker to fuse block.

Also unless you disconnect the battery this circuit will be hot, thus be careful. I would take off the breaker side first. It is not impossible to work on, but you have to feel comfortable doing it. Make sure anything downstream of the fuse block is off, pull fuses if you have to.

good luck

-greg