Penthouse support bolt broke, van roof collapsed... - Page 4

arctictraveller · 01-08-2017, 07:51 PM

Those bolts are also known as "stripper bolts" incase your local bolt supplier doesn't recognize other descriptions. They allow the "stripper plate" to slide back and forth in a molding (die casting) die.

MountainBikeRoamer · 01-08-2017, 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

FYI, you might not have to order that shoulder bolt. I went to the only specialty hardware store in my town looking for shoulder bolts to upgrade Twogone's top. They had no idea what I was talking about and suggested an 'axle bolt' instead. When he went to get one I realized we were talking about the same thing. It was about $7-8 I believe and I was able to reuse the little nylon spacer between, just had to drill out the holes bigger. On the install I did I added solid steel tubing (round bar) and drilled it as well but if you aren't taking your whole top apart it would be easy to just re-do the bolts.

Not trying to hijack this thread....honest....I'm gonna have to dig into the forum archives and see how big a deal it is to remove the "U bar (x-brace supports) for the penthouse and straighten/sleeve them as you guys have described many times. Hoping it can be done without having to thoroughly "de-couple" the penthouse canvas and roof from the van.

Observation:
It seems if you're going to drill those uprights out with a slightly-larger hole (at the midway-point/apex of the "x" intersection of the two penthouse upright supports) to accommodate a larger shoulder bolt, it's indeed probably wise to sleeve/reinforce those x-brace supports before doing so (in order to make sure there's still enough overall material to still be robust and strong --- after the hole is enlarged for the larger bolt.)

I've said this a number of times already.....but again.....man, it must have been nice to be the original owner of these rigs (20 years ago) and not have to worry about any of this stuff. But on the flip side....gotta admit that there's a certain pride-in-ownership that those original owners will never experience (that we do!) when you know how to fix (and improve upon!) your classic SMB.

So thankful that this particular thread is still going!!!

boywonder · 01-08-2017, 09:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MountainBikeRoamer

Was wondering --- do you know, offhand, how long Fresno has used shoulder bolts? Curious if the original scissor-leg bolts in my Fresno-built '95 would be of that variety.

It's been fine since....but there's been so many posts on here with people's tales of failed (or partially-wallowed-out) penthouse hardware.....

Highly unlikely that you have shoulder screws/bolts..........My top is from a 2002 and had 1/4-20 hardware. Shoulder screws are a worthwhile upgrade...and what SMB should have used in the first place. They are a PITA to install with an intact top but it certainly can be done with the roof in place. I helped another member in San Diego install a couple; we used a couple of clamps and maybe a tie-down IIRC.

86Scotty · 01-08-2017, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MountainBikeRoamer

Not trying to hijack this thread....

Actually these things are pretty robust and durable. Being a simple mechanical device I'm pretty impressed with the design. It's good enough that they really have never changed it. Twogone's van (with that bent and worn grade 8 bolt) is a 95 so the top has been up and down a million times probably. Maybe just a few less.

Anyway, your questions: There are a few shortcuts you can take to sleeve the X-frame without removing the top. Block and brace it in the up position (4 2x4's about 2' long is all that's required), carefully remove the linkage (I use a come-along), remove the ceiling support boxes and drop the X-frame, then you'll see it's pretty simple to remove bottom bolts and get it out. What surprised me is how heavy it is. It's some stout tubing already!......but it bends.

You can see some more pics etc. on my redeaux of Marc's (Twogone's) van but not really many specifics for the resleeving job. I learned from others. I'm certainly claiming to have the best ideas or safest methods

x3.......but I've done it recently and documented a lot of it. Skip to post 299 unless you haven't read Twogone's whole thread. It's one of my favorites, complete with amazing videos of them living the good life. You'll need an entire weekend to read it. Back on topic, Boywonder did a much better job at documenting the resleeving.

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...t-6270-30.html

Have fun! Glad to help if you need. It's a 6 beer job. 6 beers = appox. 5 hours. You could turn it in to a 3 hour job with a friend but then it becomes a 12 beer job..........unless Rallypanam is involved. Then it's still a 5 hour job but an 18 beer job.........I'm rambling..........but you see my point.

boywonder · 01-08-2017, 09:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

Have fun! Glad to help if you need. It's a 6 beer job. 6 beers = appox. 5 hours. You could turn it in to a 3 hour job with a friend but then it becomes a 12 beer job..........unless Rallypanam is involved. Then it's still a 5 hour job but an 18 beer job.........I'm rambling..........but you see my point.

...that explains why Rallypanam has a urinal and couch in his garage......so I've heard anyway....

arctictraveller · 01-08-2017, 10:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boywonder

...that explains why Rallypanam has a urinal and couch in his garage......so I've heard anyway....

He HAD to install a urinal, it would take too long to go upstairs to use the bathroom. That would be a waste of valuable drinking time.

boywonder · 01-09-2017, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MountainBikeRoamer

Observation:
It seems if you're going to drill those uprights out with a slightly-larger hole (at the midway-point/apex of the "x" intersection of the two penthouse upright supports) to accommodate a larger shoulder bolt, it's indeed probably wise to sleeve/reinforce those x-brace supports before doing so (in order to make sure there's still enough overall material to still be robust and strong --- after the hole is enlarged for the larger bolt.)

Usually the hole is worn/egged out enough that it's somewhat to the next size up already....which is 5/16"......

86Scotty · 01-09-2017, 08:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by boywonder

Usually the hole is worn/egged out enough that it's somewhat to the next size up already....which is 5/16"......

Wait, are we talking about the urinal or are we back on topic?

MountainBikeRoamer · 01-09-2017, 08:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 86Scotty

There are a few shortcuts you can take to sleeve the X-frame without removing the top. Block and brace it in the up position (4 2x4's about 2' long is all that's required), carefully remove the linkage (I use a come-along), remove the ceiling support boxes and drop the X-frame, then you'll see it's pretty simple to remove bottom bolts and get it out. What surprised me is how heavy it is. It's some stout tubing already!......but it bends.

You can see some more pics etc. on my redeaux of Marc's (Twogone's) van but not really many specifics for the resleeving job. I learned from others. I'm certainly claiming to have the best ideas or safest methods

x3.......but I've done it recently and documented a lot of it. Skip to post 299 unless you haven't read Twogone's whole thread. It's one of my favorites, complete with amazing videos of them living the good life. You'll need an entire weekend to read it. Back on topic, Boywonder did a much better job at documenting the resleeving.

http://www.sportsmobileforum.com/for...t-6270-30.html

Have fun! Glad to help if you need. It's a 6 beer job. 6 beers = appox. 5 hours. You could turn it in to a 3 hour job with a friend but then it becomes a 12 beer job..........unless Rallypanam is involved. Then it's still a 5 hour job but an 18 beer job.........I'm rambling..........but you see my point.

86Scotty thanks!

All of your directions seem pretty doable. The come-along release of the springs seems like a step to take quite carefully and diligently, but the rest seems straightforward. I've just recently met up with boywonder here locally, so it seems like I'm potentially (and thankfully!) not completely alone in the woods on this now.

The only thing I'm still struggling with (in your directions) is some basic math:

As in, attempting to make the proper calculations for converting from "how many beers" this project is measured in, to "how many glasses of Scotch."

86Scotty · 01-09-2017, 09:14 AM

Good question. You'd have to ask a scotch connoisseur who also drinks beer. I, unfortunately, am a beer drinker who rarely drinks scotch, though I'm willing!

On the PH springs, find Larrie's thread on this. It's a good one. It's way back in the archives. I really recommend a PH spring adjustment to anyone who is fairly handy and would like to know what's underneath the upholstery in an SMB pop top. It's really a simple and interesting mechanism. There are no fireworks and if you go as far as adjusting them once you get to see how it all works. A simple PH spring adjustment is a 2 beer or one scotch job, but only after. Before is not advisable given the nature of heavy springs and come-alongs. Using a come-along will sober anyone up. It can also be done with heavy ratchet straps I'm told.