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Old 06-17-2021, 07:15 PM   #1
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Rear A/C blower not turning on after replacing main compressor

I have a 2010 EB50 build with A/C vents in the back. I bought it used and as best I know, the A/C in the back runs off the same compressor as the front vents and only cools when the engine is running. There is one switch above the driver head (see pic) that controls the fan speed for the rear.

The main A/C compressor clutch blew apart and I had the whole thing replaced. A bit $$$ for sure! Now there is nice cold air coming from the dash. But, 1500 miles from the repair shop, I just noticed that the rear A/C blower no longer turns on from the switch. I am guessing that something didn't get reconnected when the compressor was replaced.

Any advice or ideas on where to start looking to troubleshoot? Is there a wiring harness or fuse to check? I don't remember if that blower can be switched on when the A/C at the dash is not turned on, but I'm thinking it can't. Anyone know if that blower switch is powered from somewhere near the compressor?
Thx!
-Ken
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Old 06-17-2021, 07:27 PM   #2
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That looks like the control know that was in the SMB that I used to have. I think the brand was ProAir.

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Old 06-17-2021, 07:49 PM   #3
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How did you operate it before the compressor failed? Not sure if the 2010 has a Starcool or a newer Danhard unit. Do you know what system you have?


On my Starcool when driving, that rotary switch needs to stay in the low med or high setting. There is an operating switch (usually located within reach from the driver seat) that sends power to that rotary switch which activates the blower. The Ford A/C controls are just set to the desired setting but both systems must be on for it to work correctly.



Hard to say without knowing what system you have.
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Old 07-10-2021, 02:00 PM   #4
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Thanks daveb, sorry for the delay, I had missed your reply, and then had left my SMB for three weeks up in WA. Back now and am trying to identify what system is in place. Here is a photo of the condenser in the back. There is no auxiliary compressor, so it is just a 12v system. Are there any other ways to distinguish between Starcool and Danhard?

Prior to it failing, I would operate the system by having the stock A/C on at the dash, engine running, and then twist the knob above the driver side to Lo, Med, or High. Even now, when the A/C is turned on at the dash, refrigerant does go to the condenser in the back and the coils are cold. I just can't get the blower back there to come on. I also can't find a fuse anywhere that might control that blower fan.

Secondary question: I also suspect the Ford dealership will have underfilled the refrigerant, going with just the stock amount. I have seen other posts that the Starcool III requires 4.5 lbs, but wondering if my system that lacks the 110v compressor, would require less than that?

Thanks!
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Old 07-10-2021, 03:57 PM   #5
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If refrigerant were low, the compressor wouldn’t come on at all. And this shouldn’t affect the rear blower either. Is there a 2nd switch somewhere maybe? I though the star cool had a house control as well and a switch somewhere to select which controller?
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Old 07-10-2021, 04:02 PM   #6
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No second controller or switch on this system, I guess because it does not have a second compressor - no 110v shore system installed.
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Old 04-24-2022, 07:39 PM   #7
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SOLVED! Manual Reset Breaker Near Radiator!?

With summer approaching, I took another crack at solving the Starcool blower problem described in my original post nearly a year ago. The culprit was a manual breaker located up by the main fuse box in the engine compartment. I pushed the reset button and voila, blower worked. The key was finding that dang breaker.

First, I was able to confirm that if I could get power to the rotary switch above the driver side visor, the blower worked. So then it was a matter of figuring out why no power after the A/C was repaired.

Using an automotive wire tracer on the hot lead at the rotary switch [which was actually not hot], I was able to identify a heavy gauge wire that went through the firewall, along the base of the windshield and eventually to a manual reset breaker bolted to the frame, just above the radiator, next to the engine compartment fuses. It is not visible when simply looking into the engine because it is bolted to the frame UNDER the plastic awning that seals the hood! In fact, I didn't believe the wire tracer the first couple of times. It was beeping and there was no flippin' wire there, or so I thought! I have included a couple of photos.

In systems with the 12v blower and 110v compressor to provide A/C when on shore power, this manual breaker usually sits on a relay plate, back by the
condenser under the back seat. In my case, no 110v system at all, so the breaker was moved to be located next to the 12v power supply (not the house battery, but the Aux power when ignition is on). I guess it all makes sense, just would have been nice to document in my SMB manual.

Hopefully this will spare someone else the head scratching!



Quote:
Originally Posted by coot View Post
I have a 2010 EB50 build with A/C vents in the back. I bought it used and as best I know, the A/C in the back runs off the same compressor as the front vents and only cools when the engine is running. There is one switch above the driver head (see pic) that controls the fan speed for the rear.

The main A/C compressor clutch blew apart and I had the whole thing replaced. A bit $$$ for sure! Now there is nice cold air coming from the dash. But, 1500 miles from the repair shop, I just noticed that the rear A/C blower no longer turns on from the switch. I am guessing that something didn't get reconnected when the compressor was replaced.

Any advice or ideas on where to start looking to troubleshoot? Is there a wiring harness or fuse to check? I don't remember if that blower can be switched on when the A/C at the dash is not turned on, but I'm thinking it can't. Anyone know if that blower switch is powered from somewhere near the compressor?
Thx!
-Ken
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