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Old 03-18-2021, 10:18 AM   #21
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Thumbs up Great looking Chevy!

I've also heard good things about Truckfridge.

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Old 03-18-2021, 10:38 AM   #22
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Another vote for Truckfridge. We've had a TF-49 in our homebuilt van for about 5 years. Aside from perfect function during all our trips, it's been running non-stop in my driveway for the last 12 months since we've been using it as an overflow fridge for milk/eggs/butter since the lockdown hit.
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Old 03-18-2021, 11:50 AM   #23
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Last year the original NorCold gave out. replaced with the new NorCold and it works fine.
For years I have turned the frig off at night not because of recycling or noise but to reduce electrical consumption. Never had any issues with food or ice as it has always been cold and the ice tray has always been solid. I am hard of hearing so never had have an noise issue as has been mentioned here. It runs fine and don't like to use crossed fingers when I in the high country. proven reliability is much more comfortable.
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Old 03-18-2021, 12:01 PM   #24
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If you do go with an Isotherm fridge, I recommend the Isotherm ITC digital display/controller. Our Sprinter Sportsmobile came with an Isotherm Classic fridge with a twist control knob with no markings and no detents. You couldn’t consistently set it to one setting (because no markings) and it was constantly getting bumped and turned to a new setting. We have the ITC mounted high above the counter and the digital temperature readout is easy to see. We use the “ITC” mode when we’re driving, because it can sense the higher voltage and overcool the fridge contents, and the “Eco” mode when we’re camping to save power. One caveat: our fridge is a few years old and I had to switch out the fridge controller in order to install the ITC controller. Even so, it was worth it to me.
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Old 03-18-2021, 12:37 PM   #25
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Didn’t see this mentioned, but I Indel owns Truckfridge, and the units are essentially the same as their isotherm,units, just that they are certified for RV/truck use which is less expensive than getting a marine certification. Other Isotherm upgrades likes the digital thermostats should work for Truckfridge models. I’ve got the TF-49 stainless drawer model that has worked great for 4 years. So quiet it’s hard to tell if it’s running at night. It’s been running for years in the driveway with just solar powering it.

If you have room, I recommend adding an inch of insulation around the unit which essentially doubles the unit insulation and greatly cuts down on cycling and power use.
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Old 03-18-2021, 02:35 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Herbie View Post
Another vote for Truckfridge. We've had a TF-49 in our homebuilt van for about 5 years. Aside from perfect function during all our trips, it's been running non-stop in my driveway for the last 12 months since we've been using it as an overflow fridge for milk/eggs/butter since the lockdown hit.

Same here. Mine is now 1 year. Quiet and efficient. I run mine 24x7.
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Old 03-18-2021, 08:53 PM   #27
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I should know this but when replacing a 12v fridge like the Norcold DC0051 do you want strictly the 12v Truckfridge 65 or the 65ACDC model which automatically switches from 12vDC battery power to 110vAC when connected to shorepower.

I'm not entirely sure how the DC0051 is wired but my understanding is that on the typical SMB build with an inverter/charger that when connected to shorepower the van outlets are then 110 but accessories like the lights and presumably the fridge are still running off 12v while the battery is being charged off the inverter/charger. That is, there is not a transfer switch that I am aware of.
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Old 03-19-2021, 10:25 AM   #28
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I believe most (all?) SMBs come with the dual 12v/110v frigs as OEM. Maybe a few came with tri-power (+propane) or 12v only, but that would be a deviation from the standard build.



In the dual-power ones, the frig itself automatically switches when it senses 110vac power being live, either from shore power or if an inverter is supplying the AC. SMB wires a 110vac outlet in the cabinet behind the frig and the frig plug goes in there. That's why you always want to make sure that the AC master breaker (or at least the frig breaker) is turned off when you are running AC via inverter and not shore power: it's much less draw on the batteries for the frig to run directly on 12v vs running on 110vac through the inverter.
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Old 03-19-2021, 11:17 AM   #29
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Is that configuration so they can use a smaller converter/charger, or are there other benefits? I've never really figured out if my Norcold cools faster on 120V than on 12V; it sounds exactly as loud.
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Old 03-19-2021, 11:30 AM   #30
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Is there any benefit to a dual voltage fridge, if you have a battery charger that converts shore power?


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