Sportsmobile technician

[boywonder]

Originally Posted by Steve C

Sorry for the thread highjack, but since the subject has been broached. Boywonder would it be possible to cut an access "hole" on the inside top of the cabinetry to get at the bolt on the driver's side that is blocked? I've been procrastinating tackling the penthouse bolt renewal project for a couple years now and thought this might be one way to avoid deconstructing the driver's side cabinetry on the SMB RB50 plan. Looking at going through the cabinet directly behind the seat's back (to the rear of the pantry cabinet).

Or should I just bite the proverbial bullet and start dismantling cabinetry?

Thanks for any input.

Great question...my interior is home brewed .....so I'm not super familiar with the typical RB50 plan....


I think it's a great idea assuming that the hole with be in the ceiling of the cabinet.....just have to determine where to put it. Perhaps cut an access hole and then just make a new ceiling panel to screw in over the existing panel as a beauty cover.


And BTW that woodwork looks fantastic! What species did you use?

[Steve C]

Thanks for the quick reply @Boywonder. I was contemplating covering up the access hole as you suggest. The wood pictured is hickory and thanks for the compliment.

[Arturo]

I will post some pics tomorrow. Another issue is that the spring in the channel on the driver’s side does not remain in the channel. It rases up about an inch or two above the channel. The passengers side remains in the channel. NEEDS WORK !!!

[boywonder]

Arturo: It's all fixable (and upgradeable) the job just gets big if you need to get behind upholstery/cabinetry.


The SMB pivot bolts for the crossbars are known failure points, as well as the crossbars themselves.....crossbars can be sleeved with Cro-Mo tubing and pivot bolts can be replaced with shoulder screws and much more appropriate spacers.


I've modified/upgraded quite a few PH roof parts to make them more robust and to get the tops to lift easier/smoother/quieter.

[moorefc]

Originally Posted by Arturo

Another issue is that the spring in the channel on the driver’s side does not remain in the channel. It rases up about an inch or two above the channel. The passengers side remains in the channel. NEEDS WORK !!!

Second Boy Wonder's comments...Having been thru the broken, actually unscrewed fasteners, parts are not unique. Fender washers, nylock & jam nuts, and grade 8 bolts......Looking at the springs you will probably notice the difference causing the channel spring issue...Several of the channel bolts were fastened without nylocks (texas build)....Also washers/spacers serve to better align the bolt loads between channels and lift mechanism...
I believe I posted some pics a while back as well....
Supporting the top and lowering the mechanism relieves the fastener loads...
A number of write-ups on that...

[Arturo]

Could you attach or direct me to the pictures you mentioned in your comments. Thanks

[moorefc]

https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post177136
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post164491
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...tml#post162416
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ted-15789.html
https://www.sportsmobileforum.com/fo...ouse-8495.html



There are more if you search, but this should get you started....
Cheers

[Arturo]

Thank you for all the info you sent me. It appears that you have dealt with the problems I am dealing with. Next question is, do you do these repairs? If so, can I schedule an appointment? I am 74 and not capable of preforming the necessary maintenance.

[gahamby]

I would suggest not posting that much personal contact information in the open.
Anyone can see that. Use the private message function.

[Arturo]

Don’t know how to do a private message functuin